E-locker confusion.. :(

[Kotrin]

So I have the option to get a 4:30 elocker with pumpkin for a really good price, but my research is showing I have 4:10s. I spent half the night searching/googling and looking for ways to get this to work in my 4runner and the only options I'm seeing is to get a 7.5 pumpkin off the front of an auto v6 and replce that in mine. A buddy was trying to tell me the locker should jjust un bolt and rebolt, but I haven't seen it physically to verify if that would work.

The price is really good and hard to pass up, am I getting in over my head or?!?

Thanks

 

[Nelsonmd]

Well, you have a couple issues at work here...

1. Yes, an entire e-locked axle will bolt right up to your frame.
1A. I assume you are going from an open 4.10 to an e-locked 4.3? You will need to wire in the e-locker, and get an ECU from a locked vehicle.

2. Yes, if you change the gearing in the back, you need top change the gearing in the front diff as well (are you pulling the axle from a salvage vehicle? You should just pull the front diff from that vehicle). I am not sure if there are any differences in the 4.1 vs 4.3 front diff's other than the gears.

This conversion will be a good amount of work. You can search for e-locker retrofits and get an idea of how much work it really is.

 

[Singtoe]

So I have the option to get a 4:30 elocker with pumpkin for a really good price, but my research is showing I have 4:10s. I spent half the night searching/googling and looking for ways to get this to work in my 4runner and the only options I'm seeing is to get a 7.5 pumpkin off the front of an auto v6 and replce that in mine. A buddy was trying to tell me the locker should jjust un bolt and rebolt, but I haven't seen it physically to verify if that would work.

The price is really good and hard to pass up, am I getting in over my head or?!?

Thanks

What is a really good price? What are you getting exactly? Might be better options if the details are known.

 

[KidVermicious]

Well, you have a couple issues at work here...

1. Yes, an entire e-locked axle will bolt right up to your frame.
1A. I assume you are going from an open 4.10 to an e-locked 4.3? You will need to wire in the e-locker, and get an ECU from a locked vehicle.

2. Yes, if you change the gearing in the back, you need top change the gearing in the front diff as well (are you pulling the axle from a salvage vehicle? You should just pull the front diff from that vehicle). I am not sure if there are any differences in the 4.1 vs 4.3 front diff's other than the gears.

This conversion will be a good amount of work. You can search for e-locker retrofits and get an idea of how much work it really is.

I'm curious, why do you need the ECU?

 

[IanB]

I'm curious, why do you need the ECU?

The factory wiring runs through the ecu, so the e-locker can only be engaged when in 4low, and not all ecu's have provisions for this. I'm sure there are ways to use the factory switch and wire it independantly though.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I'm curious, why do you need the ECU?

Honestly, I don't know all the details on why; some of the retrofit threads will explain it better. There is some logic that forces the locker to unlock if you shift out of 4L, refuses to lock if you are going more than 5mph, and makes sure you are in 4L to begin with. I think this logic is in the ECU. Perhaps you could wire the locker up "dumb", but I don't recall seeing anyone do that.

 

[CanukRunner]

theres no confusion..

I dont have one so I suck.

The end.

 

[KidVermicious]

The factory wiring runs through the ecu, so the e-locker can only be engaged when in 4low, and not all ecu's have provisions for this. I'm sure there are ways to use the factory switch and wire it independantly though.

Honestly, I don't know all the details on why; some of the retrofit threads will explain it better. There is some logic that forces the locker to unlock if you shift out of 4L, refuses to lock if you are going more than 5mph, and makes sure you are in 4L to begin with. I think this logic is in the ECU. Perhaps you could wire the locker up "dumb", but I don't recall seeing anyone do that.

Good to know, thanks guys.

 

[Dbl. E]

I noticed you mentioned e-locker pumpkin, this will not bolt into your non e-locker axle housing without modifying the housing. As far as wiring it you can go the factory route or you can buy an aftermarket wiring harness to wire it up "dumb." This is pretty common in older generation Toyota's that didn't have the factory provision.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I noticed you mentioned e-locker pumpkin, this will not bolt into your non e-locker axle housing without modifying the housing. As far as wiring it you can go the factory route or you can buy an aftermarket wiring harness to wire it up "dumb." This is pretty common in older generation Toyota's that didn't have the factory provision.

The word "pumpkin" refers to the housing, not the diff. The e-locked diff will not bolt up to an open-diff housing and vice versa, but if it is complete axle assemblies (including diff, I didn't specify that before), then it will bolt right up. The UCA/LCA/panhard connect points are the same.

 

[Kotrin]

Thanks for all the input. I plan to wire it up dumb. I am able to get it for 300. I know I gotta modify the housing that doesn't concern me its the gearing. My question is why can't I unbolt the locker from the 4:30 and attach it to mine? I have not purchased it yet just have first dibs... I tried to find 4:30(4.28) gears for the front but seems to be hard to find.

 

[the great him]

Thanks for all the input. I plan to wire it up dumb. I am able to get it for 300. I know I gotta modify the housing that doesn't concern me its the gearing. My question is why can't I unbolt the locker from the 4:30 and attach it to mine? I have not purchased it yet just have first dibs... I tried to find 4:30(4.28) gears for the front but seems to be hard to find.

4:30s should be from any auto 4wd v6 4runner...

 

[Nelsonmd]

Thanks for all the input. I plan to wire it up dumb. I am able to get it for 300. I know I gotta modify the housing that doesn't concern me its the gearing. My question is why can't I unbolt the locker from the 4:30 and attach it to mine? I have not purchased it yet just have first dibs... I tried to find 4:30(4.28) gears for the front but seems to be hard to find.

Can you clarify what you are getting? This post makes it sound like you are getting a 4.30 e-locked rear differential with no axle housing (aka pumpkin); so that's carrier (diff housing) and gears. If that is correct, then I would say that $300 is not really a steal, but just a fair price for a used diff.

So you have 1 and 3 right now

You are buying 2 for $300? Or are you buying 2 and the matching 3 for $300

If you notice in the picture, the housings on 1 and 2 are different, so if you are asking if you can take the actual e-locker and actuator off the 4.3 diff and put it in your 4.1, then your answer is in the picture. Your only option there would be to pull the gears themselves off your 4.1 and have them installed in the 4.3, but that would be a royal pain and would cost alot more than it's worth.

 

[rickashay]

Yah, $300 for the third member is just a reasonable price, but it depends on the mileage too. I just bought the ENTIRE rear end out of a limited T4R (drum to drum) and got the 4WD ECU and the wiring harness for $400. The rear-end has under 120K miles.

I would say your best bet is to just find a 4.30 front diff. ( I have one for sale, but shipping might kill yah - PM me if your interested) and get a wiring harness from Inchworm.

 

[brian2sun]

the only options I'm seeing is to get a 7.5 pumpkin off the front of an auto v6 and replce that in mine.

No. I'm not sure where you guys are getting that info, but besides a few rare exceptions, 4.30s normally only came on elocked 4runners (regardless of trim level). You could get a 4.30 front diff out of an elocked 4runner, but keep reading... you have better, easier, cheaper options.

4:30s should be from any auto 4wd v6 4runner...

No. (See above) 4.10s are by far thew most common ratio for all trim levels - unless they have the elocker.

Yah, $300 for the third member is just a reasonable price, but it depends on the mileage too. I just bought the ENTIRE rear end out of a limited T4R (drum to drum) and got the 4WD ECU and the wiring harness for $400. The rear-end has under 120K miles.

I would say your best bet is to just find a 4.30 front diff. ( I have one for sale, but shipping might kill yah - PM me if your interested) and get a wiring harness from Inchworm.

$300 for a used diff isn't anything to get excited over. But $300 for an elocker diff is a good deal. They go for upwards of $4-500 on ebay all the time and sometimes even higher. A non-elocked diff can be found for $150 easy.

Thanks for all the input. I plan to wire it up dumb. I am able to get it for 300. I know I gotta modify the housing that doesn't concern me its the gearing. My question is why can't I unbolt the locker from the 4:30 and attach it to mine? I have not purchased it yet just have first dibs... I tried to find 4:30(4.28) gears for the front but seems to be hard to find.

Since you already know you have to modify your housing, just swap your existing gears into the new elocked diff, cut the notch in the housing, wire it up and leave the front diff alone. Expect to pay about $200-$250 to have a shop set up the gears (plus ~$150 for the bearing kit). No reason to pay so much more money to match your front to 4.30s - the difference WILL NOT be worth the money. And the rear is a lot easier and cheaper to R&R and setup the gears than the front.

The other option is to get an elocked 4.10 diff out of a Taco. No elockers were 4.10s in the 4runners, but they are very common in the Tacos and the diffs are the same size.

 

[Singtoe]

Try to find a taco diff in 4:10, it will make your life so much easier. I found mine for ~$350...

 

[brian2sun]

Are you going to modify the housing yourself and wire it all in? If yes, then the elocker swap will be the cheapest way to get a selectable locker (and many people like the fact that the elocker is factory). I agree with Singtoe, the a Taco 4.10 elocker is the best option. Even if you have to pay $450, you'll still be saving money not having to setup gears and buy bearing kits.

But, if you're paying someone to do all the labor, then consider an ARB too. The cost will be close but you'll have a stronger carrier and onboard air.

 

[Kotrin]

I've been looking for one for awhile...they all seemed to go for 500 or more that's either just the number 3 and or 1 and 2. I'm getting the 3 for 300. So if I understand you correctly I can remove the e locker and attatch the locker to my old gears, you mentioned paying someone...is that for ease or because its not a walk in the park? I'm a electrician so the wiring part is a piece of cake , heh.

I appreciate all your insight, really helps me on deciding if its worth it. Don't really have the cash for an arb setup, and this is more in my price versus that cause I got time to do it =)

 

[brian2sun]

I've been looking for one for awhile...they all seemed to go for 500 or more that's either just the number 3 and or 1 and 2. I'm getting the 3 for 300. So if I understand you correctly I can remove the e locker and attatch the locker to my old gears, you mentioned paying someone...is that for ease or because its not a walk in the park? I'm a electrician so the wiring part is a piece of cake , heh.

I appreciate all your insight, really helps me on deciding if its worth it. Don't really have the cash for an arb setup, and this is more in my price versus that cause I got time to do it =)

If you can only get a 4.30 elocker diff, then you'll need to take the ring and pinion gears out of the diff you have now and install them in the elocked diff. Taking them out isn't hard, but installing them is. That's why finding a Taco 4.10 elocker is so much easier. Setting up gears is precise and should be left to a trained pro (or train yourself). A bad setup will grenade the diff.

 

[YotaZach85]

I've been looking for one for awhile...they all seemed to go for 500 or more that's either just the number 3 and or 1 and 2. I'm getting the 3 for 300. So if I understand you correctly I can remove the e locker and attatch the locker to my old gears, you mentioned paying someone...is that for ease or because its not a walk in the park? I'm a electrician so the wiring part is a piece of cake , heh.

I appreciate all your insight, really helps me on deciding if its worth it. Don't really have the cash for an arb setup, and this is more in my price versus that cause I got time to do it =)

You can't bolt the locker carrier assembly into your stock thrid member if thats what you're asking, what Brian is saying is to take the 4.10 ring and pinion out of your stock third member and have them installed on the 4.30 third member. Toyota gears are really easy to change if you have a press, you will re-use the pinion shim from the 4.10 when you put the 4.10 R&P in the locker (4.30) 3rd member and the carrier bearing pre-load is adjustable. The only new parts you would need are the pinion bearings and races, new crush collar, and the pinion seal.