E Locker wiring help (solved)

[phqduphead]

So I picked up a Toyota e locker with the same gear ratio as my T4R. I've been doing tons of research on this conversion and feel confident .
This is an eBay purchase and the guy said it came with the wiring harness but after getting it I see it does not. I'm comfortable with wiring but am not sure what wire is what because some of the wire colors are different from other swaps I've looked at.

From left to right, light green, green/red, yellow, black, green. Anyone have these color wires and know which is which?

Which post is which?

I hope to do the install Friday after my switch, gasket and other stuff come from lowrangeoffroad.com

Thanks in advance[emoji119]


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[Rodtheviking]

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)

This, or did you already get the kit?

 

[duffdog]

You really only need the 2 motor wires and the 2 "locker engaged" wires on the smaller connector to close a circuit for an indicator light that shows the locker is engaged. The rest are pretty much useless and only apply to the factory ecu.

You will need 2 30A relays and a carling dpdt momentary switch with built in indicator light.

Relays:https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-332209150-Relay/dp/B0010AH6YM
switch: https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vld1-a60b/

 

[phqduphead]

E Locker wiring help

Thanks for reply! I bought this http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-e-locker-switches.html and 20' of trailer harness cable to splice into the elocker. I'm watching some videos of people testing and think I can figure out which is which.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qUQA_VlJuUw

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[jrm]

Can i ask

where you bought the complete or 3rd for the conversion and how much you paid?

 

[nevada]

You really only need the 2 motor wires and the 2 "locker engaged" wires on the smaller connector to close a circuit for an indicator light that shows the locker is engaged. The rest are pretty much useless and only apply to the factory ecu.

You will need 2 30A relays and a carling dpdt momentary switch with built in indicator light.

Relays:https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-332209150-Relay/dp/B0010AH6YM
switch: https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vld1-a60b/

have you done it this way?
what prevents the motor from being continuously energized after engagement/disengagement?

or is that built into the motor itself?

 

[duffdog]

yes, I currently have it working on my truck. It works great. The motor cannot be continuously engaged because a momentary switch is used. You just hold down the switch until the light comes on, showing the engaged state. Hold down the switch the other way until the light goes off, showing disengaged. Its that simple. There is no reason to use the "disengage in progress" or "engage in progress" wires if you are making a manual switch.

 

[phqduphead]

I bought the 3rd member for 650 shipped. No deals out there. About another 100 for the switch, gasket, studs, 20' trailer wire, and motor guard.

Unfortunately the wires were cut before the harness and they change colors after the harness.

This is what was coming from the 3rd member.
I discovered that the solid green and green with red power the motor. Depending on which wire is positive or negative will lock or unlock the diff. The yellow and light green wire alternate as ground to tell the motor when to stop. When fully locked or unlocked the circuit looses ground stopping the motor. Black wire is always ground.
If the factory harness was still attached this would be super easy.

From what I've read the two pin connector I have photoed is to hook up to a led to signal locked position. Still not sure which is +.
The switch and other stuff I ordered should show up today and then I can wire it and test the led.
-I discovered I don't need to use that plug-

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[nevada]

yes, I currently have it working on my truck. It works great. The motor cannot be continuously engaged because a momentary switch is used. You just hold down the switch until the light comes on, showing the engaged state. Hold down the switch the other way until the light goes off, showing disengaged. Its that simple. There is no reason to use the "disengage in progress" or "engage in progress" wires if you are making a manual switch.

oh geez, I totally missed the momentary switch part.
sweet, I may do this, instead of the $180 switch harness.

 

[BOFFROAD]

Sub'd.

I plan to do this next summer.

 

[phqduphead]

Got it figured out.

The colors I wrote are what's coming from the actuator before the harness at the diff. If you get one with the harness then this is much easier because the wire colors match what the instructions say.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=01t1vq85DEQ
Ignore the two wires coming from the top of the 3rd member.


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[phqduphead]

I’m adding this for anyone who is going to do the elocker mod.

The 3rd member I bought had bad bearings so I had to take it out and have it rebuilt. On the original install I did it under the vehicle. That was a huge pain in the a$$. Drilling out the holes for the new studs was very difficult. The fuel tank is in the way.

Remove the axle completely from the vehicle. Hardest part of that is disconnecting the parking brake cable. But once the axle is out it makes the job so much easier.


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[duffdog]

The two wires coming from the top of the 3rd member in the small grey connector are the "locker engaged" indicator. When the locker is engaged all the way, those two wires close a circuit. That is supposed to be connected to your light on the switch to show when the locker is actually engaged or disengaged.

 

[SunPilot]

I’m adding this for anyone who is going to do the elocker mod.

The 3rd member I bought had bad bearings so I had to take it out and have it rebuilt. On the original install I did it under the vehicle. That was a huge pain in the a$$. Drilling out the holes for the new studs was very difficult. The fuel tank is in the way.

Remove the axle completely from the vehicle. Hardest part of that is disconnecting the parking brake cable. But once the axle is out it makes the job so much easier.


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Are there any axles that would be a complete swap (to save drilling the bolts, etc.)?

 

[phqduphead]

Are there any axles that would be a complete swap (to save drilling the bolts, etc.)?

I think the fj cruiser axle is the same. The automatic transmission fj’s have the 3.73 ratio.


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[Runn4est]

Are there any axles that would be a complete swap (to save drilling the bolts, etc.)?

You'd have to buy a full axle swap from either an '09 Trail Edition or a pre-2010 FJ Cruiser. I think that a full swap on a 5th gen Trail edition would work too, but cannot say for certain. I think the axles may be a little longer, but also definitely a stronger diff.

 

[SunPilot]

I think the fj cruiser axle is the same. The automatic transmission fj’s have the 3.73 ratio.


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I'll look into it. Seems like an easier job than dealing with the fitting of older locked pumpkin

 

[SunPilot]

You'd have to buy a full axle swap from either an '09 Trail Edition or a pre-2010 FJ Cruiser. I think that a full swap on a 5th gen Trail edition would work too, but cannot say for certain. I think the axles may be a little longer, but also definitely a stronger diff.

I'm sure they're not easy to find, but doesn't hurt to look. Thanks for the input

 

[Inv4drZm]

You'd have to buy a full axle swap from either an '09 Trail Edition or a pre-2010 FJ Cruiser. I think that a full swap on a 5th gen Trail edition would work too, but cannot say for certain. I think the axles may be a little longer, but also definitely a stronger diff.

2010+ FJ's should work too, same "upgraded" diff as the 5th gen 4Runners.

 

[phqduphead]

I'll look into it. Seems like an easier job than dealing with the fitting of older locked pumpkin

I was told by a axle shop that the axle housing wall is thicker on the elocker axle. I haven’t heard of anyone having issues with a modified 4runner axle housing though. If you can find a complete elocker axle for under 1500 then that would be the thing to do. You can probably get around 500 for your axle.


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