E-Locker

[Brian1973]

Looking to possibly swap out my whole rear axle assembly. I know I have 4x4, 4:10 gears A03A, abs and non-locker at 225k miles with one leaky axle seal (looking at least $1000 for shop to fix the axle issue)... with my limited reading I can swap in a used axle with locker version to gain a little better off -road ability if needed. I see some in the 150k mile range that run around $400... from junk yard photos, either they are mislabeled or some dash boards don't have the e-locker button to the left of the steering wheel?!?!? Have heard snippets of info about it engaging automatically in 4 low? which could maybe explain why I see no button in some photos? realize a "limited" 4R is a definite locker but others were optional sooooo, without calling every salvage yard to confirm if a locker, should I just assume if no button, no locker? or is it possible it operated without the button?

Swapping out the axle seems doable, control arms, shocks, abs, brakes, undoing some stuff but simpler than an axle bearing/seal job (although I do realize the junk yard axle may end up needing it as well sooner than later.... had water intrusion into my 3rd member that was remedied over 10 yrs ago, still makes a little whirling noise... Should have just swapped the axle then instead of having them fix that. Just thinking out loud but curious about the button? And guessing when I install said axle, I will just have some wires from the axle that will need to go to a button on the dash in order to engage the locker? (obviously only in off-road, sloooow conditions...)

 

[shadow247]

Looking to possibly swap out my whole rear axle assembly. I know I have 4x4, 4:10 gears A03A, abs and non-locker at 225k miles with one leaky axle seal (looking at least $1000 for shop to fix the axle issue)... with my limited reading I can swap in a used axle with locker version to gain a little better off -road ability if needed. I see some in the 150k mile range that run around $400... from junk yard photos, either they are mislabeled or some dash boards don't have the e-locker button to the left of the steering wheel?!?!? Have heard snippets of info about it engaging automatically in 4 low? which could maybe explain why I see no button in some photos? realize a "limited" 4R is a definite locker but others were optional sooooo, without calling every salvage yard to confirm if a locker, should I just assume if no button, no locker? or is it possible it operated without the button?

Swapping out the axle seems doable, control arms, shocks, abs, brakes, undoing some stuff but simpler than an axle bearing/seal job (although I do realize the junk yard axle may end up needing it as well sooner than later.... had water intrusion into my 3rd member that was remedied over 10 yrs ago, still makes a little whirling noise... Should have just swapped the axle then instead of having them fix that. Just thinking out loud but curious about the button? And guessing when I install said axle, I will just have some wires from the axle that will need to go to a button on the dash in order to engage the locker? (obviously only in off-road, sloooow conditions...)

It will cost you much more than the 400 you pay for the used axle to complete this swap cleanly. I would opt for an Eaton Elocker instead. Cost will be about the same once you figure the labor for the shop to swap the entire axle housing, plus the wiring, etc.. And there are very few 4.10 Elockers, as those mostly came in Manual Trans 4Runners or Tacomas with Manual Trans. Almost every Elocker you find will be a 4.30, requiring the front diff to be regeared as well.

 

[Brian1973]

Figured on doing the swap myself, have tools and handy.... but definitely up for opinions. I figure I can do that easier than the detailed work for the seals and bearings plus requiring press work, plus as mentioned, a slightly compromised diff anyway from water intrusion years ago... gears making slight noise? all bearings and seals were replaced in it though so maybe I'm better off keeping what I have and let the shop replace the bearings and seals on the axle part and scrap the locker idea? Maybe you can explain what is hard about the swap? Figuring the wiring is just 2 or 3 wires run up to the front firewall and add a button??

Using car-part.com I can search for specific gear ratios and abs along with a locker. Looking for code A03A, like mine, which should be 4.10, seems there are more out there with some lower miles vs the 4.56 (A04A)... seems the 4.30 (code?) is harder to find? car-part.com - if I go by the assumptions of salvage workers that input the data in that system.... Door sticker seems reliable so if it says 4.56 in description but the door jam sticker says A03A, I'm betting on 4.10? maybe I should ask them to spin the gears and figure it manually when checking before making a trip somewhere?

Still wondering about if there are stock lockers that do no have a button to engage? I see the button in some pictures with limited models... the standard models though, I haven't seen any or very few which leads me to believe the description is wrong or they engage without use of a manual button on the dash?

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Figured on doing the swap myself, have tools and handy.... but definitely up for opinions. I figure I can do that easier than the detailed work for the seals and bearings plus requiring press work, plus as mentioned, a slightly compromised diff anyway from water intrusion years ago... gears making slight noise? all bearings and seals were replaced in it though so maybe I'm better off keeping what I have and let the shop replace the bearings and seals on the axle part and scrap the locker idea? Maybe you can explain what is hard about the swap? Figuring the wiring is just 2 or 3 wires run up to the front firewall and add a button??

Using car-part.com I can search for specific gear ratios and abs along with a locker. Looking for code A03A, like mine, which should be 4.10, seems there are more out there with some lower miles vs the 4.56 (A04A)... seems the 4.30 (code?) is harder to find? car-part.com - if I go by the assumptions of salvage workers that input the data in that system.... Door sticker seems reliable so if it says 4.56 in description but the door jam sticker says A03A, I'm betting on 4.10? maybe I should ask them to spin the gears and figure it manually when checking before making a trip somewhere?

Still wondering about if there are stock lockers that do no have a button to engage? I see the button in some pictures with limited models... the standard models though, I haven't seen any or very few which leads me to believe the description is wrong or they engage without use of a manual button on the dash?

If the locker came stock with the vehicle it would have a button. If it was added later they will either have the button or an aftermarket harness with a rocker. There is no automatic way to engage an elocker (there are however lunchbox lockers that do sorry of auto engage but they aren't as good as a selectable locker).

Also the wiring if you want to use stock parts and creat stock function it's quite complicated. You have to cut harnesses, the button and the locker ecu from the donor and then replace them into your truck connecting it to the 4x4 computer as well as take apart the dash and run a wire into the instrument cluster to make the locker light work. There are aftermarket harnesses with a rocker switch like I said and they are much simpler but you don't get the dash light.

As far as confirming gear ratios you can try asking them to do the spin test but I'm skeptical they would put time in to do that. At worst they could lie to you and tell you it's totally 4.10 to get a sale only for you to find out later it's 4.30. Best bet is do it yourself.

Lastly I wouldn't trust the axle seals on a junkyard axle to still be good without confirming without a doubt. There's lots of things that can be a mystery box with this option. It could have bad bearings to. If you want to avoid the huge price for the axle seal job and are handy with tools you could either buy a press and the specialty press tool and still be below the shop cost or possibly you could pay your location here and someone in your area might be able to help you with their tools. Don't trust a shop (or even a dealer) to do this job right, it's very easy to do wrong if you don't know the pitfalls and end up with a leaking seal again. Watch the Timmy the Toolman video on this job and you will see what I'm talking about.

 

[mtbtim]

The swap isn't terribly hard but it's labor intensive. You need to match the gearing of the front and rear diffs. As far as I know, the e-lockers all came with 4.30 gearing and most non-e-lockers came with 4.10 gearing. So, you'll need to swap out the front differential as well or re-gear like [MENTION=80102]shadow247[/MENTION] mentioned.

The easiest way to do this swap is to get the front differential, rear differential, E-locker ECU, E-locker switch and all the wiring from the same donor vehicle.


This video will show you most of what is involved.

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The next two videos will help you swap out the front differential. Be sure to watch Part 2 because I share tips to make the removal and reinstallation much easier than we showed in Part 1.

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[Brian1973]

So if I am looking at pictures from a salvage yard that show a diff lock switch and door jam sticker with the transmission code A03A like my own non-locker diff which I'm told is 4.10, it is in reality a 4.30 on the locker despite sticker saying A03A? I have seen some with A04A code which this website says is 4.56, LC ENGINEERING Differential Tech but some salvage yards are saying is 4.30 ratio. ??? Appreciate the info and videos...

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

So if I am looking at pictures from a salvage yard that show a diff lock switch and door jam sticker with the transmission code A03A like my own non-locker diff which I'm told is 4.10, it is in reality a 4.30 on the locker despite sticker saying A03A? I have seen some with A04A code which this website says is 4.56, LC ENGINEERING Differential Tech but some salvage yards are saying is 4.30 ratio. ??? Appreciate the info and videos...

Door stickers are known to not be always reliable so we can't say for sure. Generally speaking though autos with a factory locker are going to be 4.3 and only sticks come with a 4.1. You never know though if the locker came with the truck or if you are getting one that's already been through one swap if you are going through a junkyard.