EGR delete?

[triangles]

I haven't tested it yet but I believe the EGR valve has failed on 4 cylinder. Besides a potential small hit in mpg is there any down side to deleting the EGR system?

 

[98OzarksRunner]

Without the EGR valve you will have higher combustion temps which could cause detonation. Listen for spark knock.

 

[1da4]

you also can't pass emissions without an EGR

 

[csp]

There certainly aren't any upsides to removing the EGR. The correct solution is to replace the valve if it's bad.

 

[triangles]

you also can't pass emissions without an EGR

Thankfully I live in a free state that doesn't require any sort of inspection or testing. Now that I've tasted freedom, I won't live anywhere that requires emission testing/inspection.

I did some testing and the EGR valve works fine. In fact it works too well. when I try to cruise at a constant speed it opens and chokes the engine causing some pretty bad stumbling. My temporary solution is to disable the EGR by simply removing and capping the vacuum line that actuates it. If I don't figure out what is causing the problem I can always wire a resistor in place of the temp sensor so I don't get CEL.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Thankfully I live in a free state that doesn't require any sort of inspection or testing. Now that I've tasted freedom, I won't live anywhere that requires emission testing/inspection.

I did some testing and the EGR valve works fine. In fact it works too well. when I try to cruise at a constant speed it opens and chokes the engine causing some pretty bad stumbling. My temporary solution is to disable the EGR by simply removing and capping the vacuum line that actuates it. If I don't figure out what is causing the problem I can always wire a resistor in place of the temp sensor so I don't get CEL.

You would HATE NJ. :whipping2

I would suggest fixing the actual problem, whatever it is. The EGR is there for a reason. As someone said earlier, bypassing the EGR causes pre-detonation, which is not good for your engine.

 

[triangles]

You would HATE NJ. :whipping2

:rofl: Funny you would mention that. My employer's HQ is in NJ and I had briefly looked at the possibility of transferring there. I concluded it was NEVER gonna happen based solely on NJ's lack of respect for the 2A (pretty sure I would be a felon there). I guess I can add vehicle restrictions to the list of reasons not to move there. It's a nice place to visit and they are also home to one of my favorite fine dining establishments; Jersey Mike's Subs! You have my condolences for living there :sorry:

:focus: I'm thinking the problem is the vacuum modulator doohickey or whatever it's called. I'll try replacing that after the arctic blasts are done and it gets warmer outside since I don't have a warm garage to work on it.

 

[efether]

You would HATE NJ. :whipping2

I would suggest fixing the actual problem, whatever it is. The EGR is there for a reason. As someone said earlier, bypassing the EGR causes pre-detonation, which is not good for your engine.

I deleted the EGR. No pre-detonation. Why would there be? All the EGR does is recirculate exhaust gas back into the cylinders to reduce the amount of oxygen.

Any logical person would ask..."why would they do that?" Answer: to reduce ignition temperature in order to prevent burning out the catalytic converter. That's why EGR was created. It never existed before the catalytic converter. Today, it's done with variable valve timing.

Lose the EGR and catalytic converters...and you'll increase HP and fuel efficency. Additionally, if you lose the PCV valve in favor of an oil catch can, you can pretty much eliminate carbon build-up....which equals longer engine life.

You can buy the kit from LG Engineering for about $20.

I live in a FREE State...I removed all three.

 

[Bad Luck]

I deleted the EGR. No pre-detonation. Why would there be? All the EGR does is recirculate exhaust gas back into the cylinders to reduce the amount of oxygen.

Any logical person would ask..."why would they do that?" Answer: to reduce ignition temperature in order to prevent burning out the catalytic converter. That's why EGR was created. It never existed before the catalytic converter. Today, it's done with variable valve timing.

Lose the EGR and catalytic converters...and you'll increase HP and fuel efficency. Additionally, if you lose the PCV valve in favor of an oil catch can, you can pretty much eliminate carbon build-up....which equals longer engine life.

You can buy the kit from LG Engineering for about $20.

I live in a FREE State...I removed all three.

You’re close. EGR does introduce exhaust gas back into the cylinder to reduce the amount of oxygen available for combustion therefore reducing the temperature in the cylinder during firing/ignition and exhaust gas temps as well. The main purpose of reducing the temperature is to reduce the amount of NOx produced. It’s for emissions purposes. Not for catalytic converter life/performance.

Performance gains from eliminating the egr and catalytic converter are negligible in my opinion, but feel free to disagree. I’m not going to argue it.

 

[cascade123]

I deleted the EGR. No pre-detonation. Why would there be? All the EGR does is recirculate exhaust gas back into the cylinders to reduce the amount of oxygen.

Any logical person would ask..."why would they do that?" Answer: to reduce ignition temperature in order to prevent burning out the catalytic converter. That's why EGR was created. It never existed before the catalytic converter. Today, it's done with variable valve timing.

Lose the EGR and catalytic converters...and you'll increase HP and fuel efficency. Additionally, if you lose the PCV valve in favor of an oil catch can, you can pretty much eliminate carbon build-up....which equals longer engine life.

You can buy the kit from LG Engineering for about $20.

I live in a FREE State...I removed all three.

There are a few things I would be careful with here.

The main purpose of EGR is to reduce peak combustion temperature and NOx emissions. It is not simply there to protect the catalytic converter. Removing EGR can actually increase combustion temperature under certain operating conditions so whether you get knock or other drivability problems depends heavily on the engine and calibration.
If the EGR system is removed or stops functioning correctly you may also see codes from the P0400 family. P0401 is insufficient EGR flow. P0402 is excessive flow. Depending on the vehicle you can also see circuit or position related faults such as P0403 P0405 or P0406.
If those codes appear I would not start replacing parts immediately. First check the EGR valve or position sensor. Inspect the connector and wiring. Check the vacuum control system if that engine uses one. Look for blocked EGR passages and compare MAP or MAF readings before and during EGR operation.
I would also watch ignition timing and knock retard because removing EGR can change combustion temperature and load calculations. Fuel trims and coolant temperature are worth watching too.
The PCV point is another one I would change. A catch can can help separate oil mist from the crankcase vapour but I would not simply eliminate crankcase ventilation. The engine still needs controlled crankcase ventilation. If that is removed completely you can end up with excessive crankcase pressure oil leaks and seal problems.
I also would not assume that deleting the EGR and catalytic converter automatically gives better horsepower fuel economy or longer engine life. On some engines the difference may be small and on a poorly calibrated setup you can actually create new drivability problems.
If this is a road driven vehicle the proper fix for EGR or catalyst related faults is to diagnose and repair the original system rather than trying to suppress the codes.
What vehicle and engine is this on? The correct diagnostic path changes quite a bit depending on whether the EGR is vacuum controlled electronically controlled or integrated with variable valve timing.