Electrical issue help

jam23r1

jam23r1

New member
so in the last few week I have been starting to have a problem. When I used the brake to move the Runner from park to Drive I lose power the lights will dim and the radio will shut off. It some times will do it when braking like coming to a stop.

As anyone had this issue? I plan on take it in this week but was wondering if anyone as see this and it was a small fix.

2011 with 65k
 
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We're just spit balling here at this point right? Just trying to help a brotha out and give him some ideas and direction. If the battery terminals were super corroded, on both sides that wouldn't effect anything?
 
jam23r1 said:
so in the last few week I have been starting to have a problem. When I used the brake to move the Runner from park to Drive I lose power the lights will dim and the radio will shut off. It some times will do it when braking like coming to a stop.

As anyone had this issue? I plan on take it in this week but was wondering if anyone as see this and it was a small fix.

2011 with 65k
Click to expand...

Just like the others have stated, it seems as though you have a bad/loose ground somewhere... since this isn't something that has come up in the forum often/previously your highest chance of a fault is something that has been done post factory to the vehicle: "piaa 540 lights. LEDs light mod. Custom Roof Rack LEDs Roof Lights."

Good luck and let us know what you find!
 
mo_mo said:
Good luck and let us know what you find!
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And I suggest to find it as soon as possible. :fishing: Most of car fires start as an electrical fire. If lights are going dim it means there is a some place in the circuit that using much more electrical power than it is designed for. It may (and probably will) get very hot and such things are just getting worse over time.
 
jam23r1 said:
"...When I used the brake to move the Runner from park to Drive... I lose power the lights will dim and the radio will shut off..."
Click to expand...

Hi jam,

Just bare with me for a minute... if you had an electrical draw that was so severe that it could cause the lights to go dim and your accessory circuit (Radio... etc) to shut-down... you would, "no doubt", be blowing fuses which would likely be accompanied by 'One hell-of-an-electrical' burned wiring smell.

I'm thinking more towards a substantial, intermittent vacuum leak 'Triggered' when you're pressing the brake to shift from park to drive, followed by a severe drop in engine R.P.M. (intake manifold pres. surging) This could cause a sudden drop in your electrical system voltage; which may account for the audio system fail...

QUESTION: Is there a vacuum servo (interlock) on the shift lever transmission linkage?? "just something to consider before going all out searching for an electrical issue".

Cheers!
 
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I'm going to say look at the alternator. Back in September my radio starting cutting in and out on my 2007 and my friend said it's the battery. took it to have the battery checked, battery ok. Took it to the shop and it was a bad alternator.
 
Literally impossible to help but start at the obvious and work on from there. Battery, alternator, etc..

Don't know about the regular radios but my nav systems is sensitive to electrical draw and has been known to reboot during heavy winch use. No fuses were harmed or kill during the process.
 
Every time you press the brakes it draws a ton of power in these trucks- My lights dim a little bit at night and I documented that on here. When my CB is on (and others I have heard while offroading) whenever you press the brake you can here a noise like interference from an electrical motor running. I am pretty convinced the brake booster is drawing this power for all the ABS electronic aids to run.

Why did I tell you all that? Well...as others have stated, if your battery is low/old and terminals corroded it won't be able to supply this high amp demand and things will shut down. You could also have a bad alternator cable/ground or a loose connection.

Go to Autozone and have them test the battery.

Check the battery cables. If you can move them by hand, they are loose.

Check the grounds. Make sure they are tight and clean.

Check the wire connections at the ground ring terminals.

Check the power wire from the alternator going into the underhood fusebox.

Take the plastic cover off the alternator and check the connections.

Nobody can diagnose this problem over the internet- but we can help with your feedback!:fishing:
 
rigtec said:
Hi jam,

Just bare with me for a minute... if you had an electrical draw that was so severe that it could cause the lights to go dim and your accessory circuit (Radio... etc) to shut-down... you would, "no doubt", be blowing fuses which would likely be accompanied by 'One hell-of-an-electrical' burned wiring smell.

I'm thinking more towards a substantial, intermittent vacuum leak 'Triggered' when you're pressing the brake to shift from park to drive, followed by a severe drop in engine R.P.M. (intake manifold pres. surging) This could cause a sudden drop in your electrical system voltage; which may account for the audio system fail...

QUESTION: Is there a vacuum servo (interlock) on the shift lever transmission linkage?? "just something to consider before going all out searching for an electrical issue".

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Ok im glad you brought that up because i did have a drop in rpms it droped all the way to 500rpms. The battery and alternator tested great above average. Its at Toyota right now and of course its not doing it and they can't recreate the problem.
 
Battery is good
All wires good
Alternator is good
My aux lights are not wired to anything on the truck and are on a fuse box and back up circuit breaker
No codes no cel.
 
My money is that there is a loose ground.

I had a (similar) problem on my CJ-7 rebuild. A ground came lose and every time I would brake, the pedal would pull on the ground causing a ton of issues - including the engine going a bit nuts.

May seem silly, but stick your head underneath the steering wheel. Make sure there is nothing getting pulled and pinched when braking.
 
xnodesirex said:
My money is that there is a loose ground.

I had a (similar) problem on my CJ-7 rebuild. A ground came lose and every time I would brake, the pedal would pull on the ground causing a ton of issues - including the engine going a bit nuts.

May seem silly, but stick your head underneath the steering wheel. Make sure there is nothing getting pulled and pinched when braking.
Click to expand...

Did that didn't see anything.
 
jam23r1 said:
Battery is good
All wires good
Alternator is good
My aux lights are not wired to anything on the truck and are on a fuse box and back up circuit breaker
No codes no cel.
Click to expand...

Of coarse the truck won't misbehave at the dealership, that would be way too simple lol! If the dealership doesn't find anything you'll have to pay attention to small details like... engine and ambient temperatures at time of system malfunction, does it always happen just after start-up or can it happen at anytime. How long was the truck allowed to sit before this happens and, is it always the same duration or does it change etc... status info like this will help the next tech that works on the truck or even on here. Best to you!
 
So i pick up the Runner and they can't find anything wrong with it. And of course i leave the dealer and get down the road and hit the brakes anddddddd loses power. Fml wtf driving me crazy. :wtf:
 
jam23r1 said:
So i pick up the Runner and they can't find anything wrong with it. And of course i leave the dealer and get down the road and hit the brakes anddddddd loses power. Fml wtf driving me crazy. :wtf:
Click to expand...

Take one of the techs for a ride.
 
Update left the dealership drove to the gas station put gas in the Runner and it starts acting up but i got it all on video. So i take it back to Toyota show them the video andddddd now they mite know what's wrong (as if me telling them the exact same thing as the video some how video is magic ) now there pulling the hole dashboard apart.
 
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