Electrical problems/Starting issue.

[Rebel_way]

I have some starting problems on my 98 4runner v6.
Everything started after one successful jump start, I got jumpstarted after drained my battery in camping. Fuses are fine.

When I turn key on start engine doesn't turn over I can hear some clicks in the engine bay, but it is not a starter contact problem because these were replaced recently. I know how starter contacts problem sounds and it is not it.
All lights are bright doesn't go dim or anything.
I opened a fuse box and asked my wife to turn the key on start back and forth I can feel that power outlet clicks, but actual starter relay doesn't click. I opened the relay checked contacts, applied voltage to 1/2 contacts (coil) got the continuity between 5/3 contacts so relay feels fine. when key is on 1/2 contacts getting 3.5v constant doesn't matter if key is on start or on ON position, 5/3 contacts have 12v between them.
So from mine understanding the 1/2 coil contacts should get 12v when key is turned into START position so it will close the contact 5/3 and complete the circuit to turn over?

So I decided to grab I piece of wire and close the 5/3 contacts manually while having my key in on position and eureka! Engine turned over without hesitation and started right away like before.....So now I have momentary contact push button in the cab to start the engine while looking for ways to fix the problem. Also if i press the button to close 5/3 contacts with no key insurted it turns over engine, but obviously doesn't start.

Anybody got any wiring diagrams on starting? 98 4runner v6 auto limited.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[TheDurk]

'98 V6 Starting and Ignition coming right up (hope you don't have the four cyl.)

 

[TheDurk]

Your prime suspects are the park/neutral or clutch switches (try starting in neutral instead of park or using clutch cancel) and the key switch. Also double check the little 7.5A STA fuse. Use a new fuse or check with a meter or test light, don't just look at it. If auto, I'd check continuity at the P/N switch first. They go bad frequently.

 

[Rebel_way]

Thank you for the reply and wiring diagram.
You are talking about neuteral safety switch or other kind of switch? Neuteral safety is good been checked by my mechanic and I did took it apart and cleaned the contacts and nothing changed.
Will take another look at the fuse and try to start it in N after i get home.
Another thing is that when I came to my mechanic to find the starting problem the one we are talking about right now he checked N/S switch and than just pulled out wires I was using to start my engine and pluged starter relay back in and engine started from the key as it should. He couldn't explain me what happened and why it wasn't starting before and starts now...probably some kind of black magic
Since than I had no starting problems for a while, but one day pulled out my battery to charge it overnight ( wasn't driving the runner for some time) next day when I plugged battery back in...engine refused to start the normal way and I had to use bypass push button start again.

 

[Rebel_way]

Got home checked contanudity on sta 7.5a fuse all is good.
Starting on relay bypass (push button) starts in P/N/D even starts with the STA fuse out.

With starter relay plugged back in doesnt start at all in any gear. same old.

Also 1/2 contacts on starter relay base read 3.5v when on ON or
Start while shifter is in park. If I change to N or Drive voltage drops to zero.

 

[TheDurk]

Thank you for the reply and wiring diagram.
You are talking about neuteral safety switch or other kind of switch? Neuteral safety is good been checked by my mechanic and I did took it apart and cleaned the contacts and nothing changed.
Will take another look at the fuse and try to start it in N after i get home.
Another thing is that when I came to my mechanic to find the starting problem the one we are talking about right now he checked N/S switch and than just pulled out wires I was using to start my engine and pluged starter relay back in and engine started from the key as it should. He couldn't explain me what happened and why it wasn't starting before and starts now...probably some kind of black magic
Since than I had no starting problems for a while, but one day pulled out my battery to charge it overnight ( wasn't driving the runner for some time) next day when I plugged battery back in...engine refused to start the normal way and I had to use bypass push button start again.

The other thing I forgot to mention is a frequent culprit is aftermarket alarm/theft-prevention systems, including ones which have been "removed." I can help with those, as absolutely anything is possible. But keep alert for any non-factory looking wiring. It starts to sound more likely after this last story.

When I said start by checking at the park/neutral switch (yes, the "neuteral" switch), it is just as important to check that you are receiving 12V+ when the key is turned to START on Pin 6, and that you have continuity to the START relay Pin 1 from Pin 5. That's how you start to narrow down a wiring fail. One of those has to fail, if you only had 3.5V at the relay coil. (Well, unless you don't have a good ground on Pin 2. Spend 30 seconds and rule that out.)

 

[Rebel_way]

Sooo! It took me longer than 30 seconds. I decided to go ahead and pull out my alarm controller. Security system was braking mine green striped black wire( the one from ignition harness) connecting it to some kinde of yellow wire and leading towards aftermarket relay part of security system and coming back as yellow and conecting to the other half of green/black striped wire. So i took this shit out, spliced green back together, pluged harness back into egnition socket and it fixed the problem!

 

[TheDurk]

Sooo! It took me longer than 30 seconds. I decided to go ahead and pull out my alarm controller. Security system was braking mine green striped black wire( the one from ignition harness) connecting it to some kinde of yellow wire and leading towards aftermarket relay part of security system and coming back as yellow and conecting to the other half of green/black striped wire. So i took this shit out, spliced green back together, pluged harness back into egnition socket and it fixed the problem!

To be clear, the 30 seconds was just for testing a ground. You did a lot more than that. Glad it you got it done. As I said, alarms are a frequent cause of this.

 

[Rebel_way]

To be clear, the 30 seconds was just for testing a ground. You did a lot more than that. Glad it you got it done. As I said, alarms are a frequent cause of this.

I think all my grounds are fine. It was the alarm freaking out for no reason, I wonder what happened to it. The sad part is that I don't have a center lock now and cant open or close doors from remote. The actual alarm was out way before that with no reason.
I wonder If I hook up the alarm unit back to the system in parallel so it wont be able to affect the ignition will the center lock and *open doors* light on the dash work?

Thank you for your help, appreciate that.

 

[saltysnapz]

The other thing I forgot to mention is a frequent culprit is aftermarket alarm/theft-prevention systems, including ones which have been "removed." I can help with those, as absolutely anything is possible. But keep alert for any non-factory looking wiring. It starts to sound more likely after this last story.

When I said start by checking at the park/neutral switch (yes, the "neuteral" switch), it is just as important to check that you are receiving 12V+ when the key is turned to START on Pin 6, and that you have continuity to the START relay Pin 1 from Pin 5. That's how you start to narrow down a wiring fail. One of those has to fail, if you only had 3.5V at the relay coil. (Well, unless you don't have a good ground on Pin 2. Spend 30 seconds and rule that out.)

I'm having the same issue, you said you can help with the aftermarket remote start/security system issue? What exactly is it that's causing the problem?

 

[TheDurk]

I'm having the same issue, you said you can help with the aftermarket remote start/security system issue? What exactly is it that's causing the problem?

OOPS. I meant to say "I can't", because "anything is possible." Sorry.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I'm having the same issue, you said you can help with the aftermarket remote start/security system issue? What exactly is it that's causing the problem?

El Durko, commonly known as [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] is almost a genius, but he isn't familiar with alarm systems because they don't use them in his part of the country. No one wants to steal a rusted out truck!

Do you know what system is installed in your truck? Not just brand, but model, although the brand would be a start. Most of these systems interrupt the "crank" signal from the ignition switch with a relay. And they usually place it somewhere in the vicinity of the steering column. Give me what info you have on the "system" and we can do some digging around.

Also, describe your OWN problem/symptoms in detail, and give your year/model information.

 

[iamlark]

'98 V6 Starting and Ignition coming right up (hope you don't have the four cyl.)

Hey Durk, any chance that you might have this same schematic for a 2001 LTD? I've got a short or something causing the "main" (fuel pump/starter) relay to fry when I hit a pothole.

 

[[email protected]]

2004 t4r enging fuse relay confusion.

I have a 2004 4runner limited v8 4.7 4wd

general question.

I have a starter relay when inserted is turning off the fuel pump relay. open circuit is active.

pulled both relays out put volt meter and key on. (12.2v) on both circuits
put starter relay in with key-on. (0) volts to fuel pump relay.
using tech stream software no codes available turn on fuel pump relay on. (0) volts to relay.

what could cause this?

 

[Bad Luck]

I have a 2004 4runner limited v8 4.7 4wd

general question.

I have a starter relay when inserted is turning off the fuel pump relay. open circuit is active.

pulled both relays out put volt meter and key on. (12.2v) on both circuits
put starter relay in with key-on. (0) volts to fuel pump relay.
using tech stream software no codes available turn on fuel pump relay on. (0) volts to relay.

what could cause this?

I can only speak for 3rd gen 4Runners because I don't own a 4th Gen (like you do). 3rd gen 4Runners only send power to the fuel pump when cranking or when the engine is running. Key on and engine off the fuel pump will not run/prime. Here's a link to the 4th gen section: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/ and here's a link to a 4th gen specific google search: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.toyota-4runner.org%2F4th-gen-t4rs%2F&newwindow=1&rlz=1C1QJDB_enUS784US793&sxsrf=AOaemvKIaG8X02-gPEnfJO0SkT8WuNie9A%3A1641303453484&ei=nU3UYZD-HLi2qtsPrr-OgAE&ved=0ahUKEwjQwMDqm5j1AhU4m2oFHa6fAxAQ4dUDCA4&uact=5&oq=site%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.toyota-4runner.org%2F4th-gen-t4rs%2F&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EANKBAhBGAFKBAhGGABQnBlYnBlg_CxoAXAAeACAAV2IAV2SAQExmAEAoAECoAEBwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz