Elocker conversion on a '97 - pics included

[calnhob]

Picked this up a few days ago at the local junk yard and I'm super excited about the possibilities...also a little scared.

Got there first thing in the morning and was happy to see no one else took the parts. Pulled the switch, 3rd member and axle housing (think I got everything to do the conversion). It's so sad to see these awesome trucks at the junk yard especially since there was no body damage (donor was a 96 Limited with 256K on the odo). If I had a big back yard I would buy as many as I could park.

I'm not sure how long it will take to do the conversion since I have no experience but will be reaching like mad on the steps. I'll document if there's enough interest but it might take me a while.

First thing first, anyone know how to test if the electric motor is working? I'm thinking I can rig the switch to a 12v battery and push it to see if the motor engages. The switch is pretty basic with two wires (green/red stripe and black/red stripe). I tried testing the switch itself with continuity but nothing and then tried + & - from a 12V and still nothing.


Elocker switch 96 4runner 3rd gen

elocker motor 3rd gen 4runner

3rd member elocker 3rd gen 4runner

Axle housing 96 3rd gen 4runner

 

[NWFL4Runner]

Did you snag the locker ecu? I’d also grab the wire loom from under the seat if it’s there. Makes install easy

 

[Lamer]

First thing first, anyone know how to test if the electric motor is working? I'm thinking I can rig the switch to a 12v battery and push it to see if the motor engages. The switch is pretty basic with two wires (green/red stripe and black/red stripe). I tried testing the switch itself with continuity but nothing and then tried + & - from a 12V and still nothing.

a while back i figured out which wires inside the plug actually activated the motor...cant recall right now.

from there I did two things: 1: using a 9v battery, you can get the motor to bump briefly. it wont turn completely. but htat will tell you if the motor is loose (not jammed).

2: i clipped some wire leads to the same two prongs in the plug, held the ground to the car battery ground, and then very quickly tapped the hot lead to the 12v of the car battery. that will absolutely turn the motor.


EDIT------------------------------

these two prongs

 

[rkntoy]

Did you snag the locker ecu? I’d also grab the wire loom from under the seat if it’s there. Makes install easy

Its actually behind the kick panel in front of the driver door.

 

[NWFL4Runner]

Its actually behind the kick panel in front of the driver door.

Yeah I meant the connector under the rear passenger seat, helps keep the wiring job easy

 

[kolelt]

Not every 4runner was pre wired. So....

 

[Trojan4x4]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but on my research you can find a used elocker for around $500-600$. For that price you could get a brand new Yukon Grizzly locker. What’s the benefit of sourcing an E locker?

 

[theesotericone]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but on my research you can find a used elocker for around $500-600$. For that price you could get a brand new Yukon Grizzly locker. What’s the benefit of sourcing an E locker?

One's selectable and one's auto locking. If you have a choice selectable is the way to go. The difference between having open/locked diffs on demand compared to having open/locked diffs when your locker feels like it can be big both on and off road.

 

[calnhob]

One's selectable and one's auto locking. If you have a choice selectable is the way to go. The difference between having open/locked diffs on demand compared to having open/locked diffs when your locker feels like it can be big both on and off road.

Correctly stated by [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION]. Also this one was $250.

Crap, there's an ECU too? Anyone have a pic? I grabbed the wire loom from under the rear driver side passenger seat but there's another piece?

 

[NWFL4Runner]

Yeah drivers side kick panel. Black box if I recall - snag it and the harness that comes out if it.

 

[theesotericone]

Also this one was $250.

WTF? For the axle, the switch, the wiring you pulled, and the diff?

If that's the case you win junkyard pick of the year.

Here's an easy read regrading the wiring harnesses.

Retrofit Electric Locker

Is the 96 you pulled these from intact?

If it is I'm looking for both drive shafts and the transfer case. If you end up going back to grab the ECU could you ask the yard how much they want for those items?

As far as the swap goes, relax. You already have everything you need on the mechanical side. Pulling and swapping the axle housing is a lot easier then it looks. It's also a lot easier than modifying the stock housing to fit the e-locked diff. The wiring can be done factory or aftermarket so that won't be that big of an issue.

One thing you do want to check is your current diff gear ratio. You need to make sure that your current front diff is the same ratio as the e-locked rear you pulled. If it's not grab the front diff from the donor.

 

[Lamer]

WTF? For the axle, the switch, the wiring you pulled, and the diff?

If that's the case you win junkyard pick of the year.

I pulled one from a yard hub to hub, with switch, ECU and harness for $250 here in Houston. and there was another axle still there!! I intend to go back one day and pick up the matching 4:30 front diff.

 

[Mark_BC]

Well I got a whole rear end e-locker axle including control arms and sway bar for $250 .... Canadian. So at the exchange rate that beats your find!!! Xept I didn't get the switch and ECU.

 

[calnhob]

Yeah drivers side kick panel. Black box if I recall - snag it and the harness that comes out if it.

GOT IT!

96 limited elocker Ecu 3rd gen 4runner 256k by cal_n_hobs, on Flickr

 

[calnhob]

Well I got a whole rear end e-locker axle including control arms and sway bar for $250 .... Canadian. So at the exchange rate that beats your find!!! Xept I didn't get the switch and ECU.

Well the switch and ECU is worth about $80-$100 (ebay) and at the current CAD:USD exchange of 0.78 I still come out ahead!!! :whoo:

So I got:

• Switch
• ECU
• All Wiring
• Axle housing
• Diff locker

Technically, it cost me $224.87...I was just rounding up. =)

 

[calnhob]

If it is I'm looking for both drive shafts and the transfer case. If you end up going back to grab the ECU could you ask the yard how much they want for those items?

Sorry, just saw your request. The 4runner shaft and transfer case are gone. I spoke with another guy there that had a 1st gen and he said the Stockton Pick n Pull get's a lot of 3rd gens and it's so far that not too many people go.

You can also get alerts using row52.com and look for pricing on pick n pull's website, that's what I did. Row52 also has local parts pullers so you can ask someone to grab the shaft and TC.


[MENTION=78966]Lamer[/MENTION] - I tried those two wires (green and green/red stripe) and the motor started a little and then stopped but not it won't start again. I'm hoping something didn't short.

 

[Lamer]

[MENTION=78966]Lamer[/MENTION] - I tried those two wires (green and green/red stripe) and the motor started a little and then stopped but not it won't start again. I'm hoping something didn't short.

if your actuator is still attached to the 3rd member, the 9v battery will not turn the motor enough to actually lock the axle. its too weak of a power source. but it will cycle the free-play out of the gears.switch the wires and do it again, it will turn the motor the other direction.

if you are using a 12v power source, do not hold the power to the motor for more than a split second!! under normal operation (stock wiring) the ECU will cut power when the motor has turned a specific amount. powering the motor beyond this point may cause the motor to burn up.

 

[calnhob]

if your actuator is still attached to the 3rd member, the 9v battery will not turn the motor enough to actually lock the axle. its too weak of a power source. but it will cycle the free-play out of the gears.switch the wires and do it again, it will turn the motor the other direction.

if you are using a 12v power source, do not hold the power to the motor for more than a split second!! under normal operation (stock wiring) the ECU will cut power when the motor has turned a specific amount. powering the motor beyond this point may cause the motor to burn up.

Okay, motor working. Used the 9V method.

 

[Mark_BC]

if your actuator is still attached to the 3rd member, the 9v battery will not turn the motor enough to actually lock the axle. its too weak of a power source. but it will cycle the free-play out of the gears.switch the wires and do it again, it will turn the motor the other direction.

if you are using a 12v power source, do not hold the power to the motor for more than a split second!! under normal operation (stock wiring) the ECU will cut power when the motor has turned a specific amount. powering the motor beyond this point may cause the motor to burn up.

I used the Low Range Off Road switch and it takes a few seconds to engage / disengage and a full 20-30 seconds before it stops making noise.

 

[Scramble]

I wouldn't even waste my time with the ECU. Then you can only use the locker in 4lo. Just wire it up to the switch & you can use it in any mode.

Great find & price!