Emissions tests keep resetting to not ready status...

Multimeter shows 12.6-12.7 on battery, positive wires going in the fuse box under hood, using the bolts inside the fuse box. Turning key to ACC, the cut wire seen above is definitely the secondary ignition wire but it only read 11.4?

So my wiring is ok there, but is the 11.4 abnormal? Shouldn't it get at least 12v and if so, is the discrepancy enough to reset the ECU?
 
I cut the part going into the harness too close so I can't really twist the wires back together so I kinda dropped some Gorilla Glue to hold it together.

Hell, I can't even tell if the ends are touching lol.
I'll have to re-pin or solder this wire now ugh.

x4YlU6Q.jpg
Strip the ends and use a butt splice

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Or use two butt splices and a short length of wire between them. Soldering is the best long term no chance for corrosion though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is voltage at 38f outside and driving a while. Lights and fan on speed 2 while driving.
14d440475474b3a68f0375ec18d146c5.jpg


This is at a stop with brake applied and lights and fan on speed 2.
5f7abfb59e03d521b7bf9aa9ff358802.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I am in the same boat right now. my 3rd gen wont pass smog due to the readiness monitors incomplete. in need help DESPERATELY , i repaired o2 sensors , my exhaust leak, vacuum problems, cleaned throttle body and MAF and nothing seems to work!!! its very frustrating and ive been back n fourth to the smog center and the same thing keeps popping up that everything is ready EXCEPT FOR -- EVAP, O2, CAT, and 2 others aren't ready. ive driven the drive cycles multiple times now and nothing seems to be working. Ive heard to disconnect the battery to let the ECU but with my luck it wont do anything, im about ready to just pay $300 to 'pass' emissions. somebody please help SOS
 
Having the same issue, changed the battery, now trying to go for inspection. It saying the monitor catalyst and evaporate are not ready. Is there another remedy, besides driving the car 150-200 miles for the system to learn all the sensors?
 
there is a drive cycle procedure.

and disconnecting the battery will reset all the readiness monitors.

the cat and evap i believe are the last two to be reset.
 
The evap cycle requires at least one drive cycle, and then 8 hours (or more) off, and then another drive cycle. It uses the 8 hours to determine if the various valves and the gas cap hold a vacuum properly.
 
Got it. Shall i disconnect battery, reconnect, then drive? Or keep driving and it will eventually reset the evap and catalyst?
 
DON'T disconnect the battery. Every time you do that you're back to square one. Just keep driving over a couple of days and things should eventually reset. If they don't, it will probably eventually throw a code.

Some of those tests can take the better part of a week to reset. You can speed up the process by finding the relevant drive cycle in the FSM and following that exactly, but that's kind of a pain. You can't shortcut the 8 hours "off" part of the evap test.
 
DON'T disconnect the battery. Every time you do that you're back to square one. Just keep driving over a couple of days and things should eventually reset. If they don't, it will probably eventually throw a code.

Some of those tests can take the better part of a week to reset. You can speed up the process by finding the relevant drive cycle in the FSM and following that exactly, but that's kind of a pain. You can't shortcut the 8 hours "off" part of the evap test.

It's not in the FSM. It's in this TSB:

https://www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf

That doesn't mean they always work.
 
My EVAP readiness monitor didn't set for 2000 miles of driving after I installed the engine in my 97 project. No codes for EVAP. Found out the gas cap was junk. Replaced it and as soon as the gas level approached 3/4 full it cleared within 2 miles of driving.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hooked up obd2 scanner today, no codes were present, however evap and catalyst were blinking, and the scanner had a yellow light on, not green, indicating the evap and catalyst system not being ready. Anyone else come across the same issue? Drove the car for about 40 miles.
 
Would adding some fuel injector cleaner, help to re - cycle the evap and catalyst systems quicker? Any members in the NY area, go thru the same issues?
 
Would adding some fuel injector cleaner, help to re - cycle the evap and catalyst systems quicker? Any members in the NY area, go thru the same issues?



EVAP will only test between around 3/4 tank to 1/4 tank. There is a issue with the EVAP system leak wise or it would have set by now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,083
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top