End links keep falling off...

[atalarico]

I am so beyond frustrated right now with these stupid end links I just replaced. This is the second time one has come off while on a dirt road and impacted my CV. Having thought I learned my lesson from last time (after I had to pull my CV and get it rebooted because it tore the outer boot) I used red loctite, an allen key, and a 17mm wrench and torqued those sons of *****es down so I'd need a torch to remove them again. I was on the same road today as I was last time this happened a few weeks ago, and I even stopped to check them...twice.

I got back to the self wash and I saw this...

What the hell am I doing wrong? Is it maybe the Moog links themselves?

Also, if the boot isn't torn, can I just clean out my CV axle and re-pack it with moly grease and put a new band on there or should I take it to CVJ to get rebooted again?

 

[Brian3676]

Use a nylock nut

 

[AuSeeker]

I am so beyond frustrated right now with these stupid end links I just replaced. This is the second time one has come off while on a dirt road and impacted my CV. Having thought I learned my lesson from last time (after I had to pull my CV and get it rebooted because it tore the outer boot) I used red loctite, an allen key, and a 17mm wrench and torqued those sons of *****es down so I'd need a torch to remove them again. I was on the same road today as I was last time this happened a few weeks ago, and I even stopped to check them...twice.

I got back to the self wash and I saw this...

What the hell am I doing wrong? Is it maybe the Moog links themselves?

Also, if the boot isn't torn, can I just clean out my CV axle and re-pack it with moly grease and put a new band on there or should I take it to CVJ to get rebooted again?

Use a nylock nut

I agree use a locking nut, or even better if you have enough threads double nut it, second nut tightens again the first nut as tight as possible!

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Drill a hole in the threaded portion AFTER installing a castle nut. Use a cotter pin to keep the castle nut tight. Truth be told though, this should not be required. Something more is going on here, this is not normal.

 

[atalarico]

I agree use a locking nut, or even better if you have enough threads double nut it, second nut tightens again the first nut as tight as possible!

Use a nylock nut

I went to the hardware store and two auto parts stores looking for an m12x1.25 (fine thread) nylock nut, and no dice. However, I got a couple of lock washers so I'm going to try that with the regular nut I just got. There aren't enough threads to double nut it either.

Truth be told though, this should not be required. Something more is going on here, this is not normal.

I'm with you, something isn't right here and I can't figure out what. I'm going to check the other side too.

I also got an allen/hex socket for this, so I'm going to try the wrench on the nut and the hex socket to tighten.

Anyone have any thoughts on cleaning out the CV and repacking it with grease?

 

[atalarico]

I put it all back together. The rubber boot on the brand new end link is torn, so that's awesome but I'm going to run these until they make noises and then buy those awesome disconnect ones that [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] makes (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-suspension-wheels-tires/160563-sway-bar-links-eugene.html).

Also, I honestly have no idea how the end link got to the position it was in since I couldn't get the damn thing back up straight where it was. Like, how!?!?! I had to take the bottom nut off and remove the whole link to get it back into position,so I'm really perplexed on that one.

Anyway, I cleaned out the CV as best I could with some brake cleaner, re-packed it with grease, and put a new band on it. I cleaned off the threads on the end link, put more red loctite on there, and torqued it down again. This time I have a hex socket that I put to use on the top bolt, which is the one that came undone. Clearance is tight on the bottom one, so I used the wrench and little hex key that I have.

I checked the other side and it's still snug, so I have no idea. I mean, red loctite is damn near permanent...but...here we are.

I'm going to double check that I didn't put my sway bar back on upside down or something when I installed the sway bar spacers. Any hints on how that should look?

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Is it possible the link is upside down? Now keep in mind I have a 5th gen not 4th gen but the links look very similar. Your link is threaded all the way down on the shaft, mine is not. Mine has a taper that locks into the knuckle and is a very tight fit. When I installed my lift I had to release the end link like you would a ball joint, by tapping the knuckle on the side. This was on a brand new 4R with 1400 miles on it, zero rust so that had nothing to do with the link being tight.

 

[BackOff]

atalarico
How about a pic of the install?

 

[atalarico]

Is it possible the link is upside down? Now keep in mind I have a 5th gen not 4th gen but the links look very similar. Your link is threaded all the way down on the shaft, mine is not. Mine has a taper that locks into the knuckle and is a very tight fit. When I installed my lift I had to release the end link like you would a ball joint, by tapping the knuckle on the side. This was on a brand new 4R with 1400 miles on it, zero rust so that had nothing to do with the link being tight.

That's what I was thinking but I confirmed the long bolt goes through the steering knuckle arm and the short one goes through the sway bar.

atalarico
How about a pic of the install?

Will do when I get home later. I need to cross-rotate my front tires anyway, so I'm going to check on them. I'm kind of wondering if I should pull them one last time, wipe off the red loctite, and reinstall with blue loctite and a split lock washer. I worry about the red since you have to remove these things for quite a few maintenance items and I'd hate to have them stuck on there. Then again, my LBJ bolts use red loctite and all it takes is 30 seconds with the blow torch and my electric impact and they come off no problem.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

There's nothing I can think of that requires you to remove end links for maintenance? Use a top lock or nylock and skip the thread locker.

 

[atalarico]

There's nothing I can think of that requires you to remove end links for maintenance? Use a top lock or nylock and skip the thread locker.

Not routine maintenance but I mean replaceable parts. I had to remove my end-links to get my CV out, so there's one. Replacing your UCAs is another I can think of off the top of my head. I'm guessing there are more and likely anything that involves articulating your suspension to remove a part. That being said, I'm guessing if my wheel is already off then I can hit them with an impact and torch and it'll be fine.

I'm wondering with the few threads I have sticking out of the end of the nut if I can squeeze a split lock washer in there. Would that help if I could?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Not routine maintenance but I mean replaceable parts. I had to remove my end-links to get my CV out, so there's one. Replacing your UCAs is another I can think of off the top of my head. I'm guessing there are more and likely anything that involves articulating your suspension to remove a part. That being said, I'm guessing if my wheel is already off then I can hit them with an impact and torch and it'll be fine.

I'm wondering with the few threads I have sticking out of the end of the nut if I can squeeze a split lock washer in there. Would that help if I could?

Split lock washers don't do anything. Nordlock washers actually work, you could trying finding 2 of those.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Yeah or just run a nylock or top lock nut and be done with it.

 

[atalarico]

Just want to double check, is my sway bar on backwards or something or does this look normal?

 

[jblinga]

Have you considered just removing the front sway bar all together? only time I run mine is when I tow my boat

 

[Geologist]

I had the same thing happen with the same Moog end links. Tore a CV boot. I used a few zip-ties to hold the end link in place to get off the trail, which worked. I put red Loctite on the threads and that solved the problem for me. I have since removed the sway bar all together. I'd go with nylon lock nut if I were you.

 

[atalarico]

Good to know. And yes, I ran without the sway bar for a week and really didn’t like it after I had to make an emergency brake. I’m good on that.

So the sway bar looks oriented correctly?

 

[Geologist]

Your sway bar orientation is correct. I didn't feel comfortable removing mine until I added the Icons. Good luck.

 

[atalarico]

Your sway bar orientation is correct. I didn't feel comfortable removing mine until I added the Icons. Good luck.

Thanks man! Yeah, I’ll run these until they fall apart, which probably isn’t long since one of the boots already ripped from the disconnect incident. After they’re toast I’ll get some of the disconnect ones that MStudt sells.

 

[phqduphead]

OP I thought you would get a kick out of this.
My wife says she started driving my T4R while I was out of town working because her car was making a grinding noise when she stopped.

I replaced my cv axle after my end link broke and tore my boot. I was waiting on my new end link to come in the mail and figured no big deal, no one is driving my T4R. Wrong...

Some how she managed to get the sway bar with no end link to tear my new boot *