with no codes I doubt any sensor airfuel management component issue..
these do not have a fuel test port as most ALL other vehicles have . my guess fuel tank issue pump/screen/wiring / pump relay ..
I don't know how to test fuel pressure on a toyota PITA..but I did and do on other vehicles same issues low pressure.
I totally disagree with your code comment ..engine codes if they exist with be displayed, . miss fires/improper fuel /air ratio and then we get into the cat converter monitoring..
TOYOTA does not have a test port also the PCM does not have ability to monitor fuel pressures . if it did then with a bad fuel pressure a code would throw.
so if you have intermittent stalling with this vehicle fuel pressure is suspect .. possible the fuel level sender is bad indicating more fuel than in the tank LOL.. seen that before ..
If TOYOTA as YOU say does not indicate a sensor data failure then this would be an EPA violation ..
pending codes will not indicate on the display but if you have an engine stall then that would change to a confirmed failure code.
the PCM has memory so if the sensor keeps throwing bad data the code will be confirmed and you cannot clear it in these new vehicles .. another EPA rule .
I totally disagree with your code comment ..engine codes if they exist with be displayed, . miss fires/improper fuel /air ratio and then we get into the cat converter monitoring..
TOYOTA does not have a test port also the PCM does not have ability to monitor fuel pressures . if it did then with a bad fuel pressure a code would throw.
so if you have intermittent stalling with this vehicle fuel pressure is suspect .. possible the fuel level sender is bad indicating more fuel than in the tank LOL.. seen that before ..
If TOYOTA as YOU say does not indicate a sensor data failure then this would be an EPA violation ..
pending codes will not indicate on the display but if you have an engine stall then that would change to a confirmed failure code.
the PCM has memory so if the sensor keeps throwing bad data the code will be confirmed and you cannot clear it in these new vehicles .. another EPA rule .
OK, guys. Just a small update with no resolve at this point.
I am all about collecting data, but am having a hard time collecting anything meaningful.
I am fairly new to Techstream, but I connected things up and ran the health test. Nothing showed up in the list as far as error codes or problems. I tried to collect live data when driving to hopefully collect something when it stalls, but when doing so got a fatal error. I spent a good portion of the time fiddling with drivers and settings in the software to try and get the hacked copy to behave.
At this point, I was not so politely reminded that I am supposed to be traveling in said vehicle all next week and I "should quite screwing around connecting the car to the computer". I gave up and had it towed to the dealer for their "Diagnostic Testing Service". I'll report back with their findings.
In the back of my mind I keep thinking its some magnetic based sensor such as crankshaft/ camshaft or something similar. Maybe the sensor is going bad and is intermittent.
Thanks again for the assistance and replies.
Will update when I have more info.
OK, guys. Just a small update with no resolve at this point.
I am all about collecting data, but am having a hard time collecting anything meaningful.
I am fairly new to Techstream, but I connected things up and ran the health test. Nothing showed up in the list as far as error codes or problems. I tried to collect live data when driving to hopefully collect something when it stalls, but when doing so got a fatal error. I spent a good portion of the time fiddling with drivers and settings in the software to try and get the hacked copy to behave.
At this point, I was not so politely reminded that I am supposed to be traveling in said vehicle all next week and I "should quite screwing around connecting the car to the computer". I gave up and had it towed to the dealer for their "Diagnostic Testing Service". I'll report back with their findings.
In the back of my mind I keep thinking its some magnetic based sensor such as crankshaft/ camshaft or something similar. Maybe the sensor is going bad and is intermittent.
Thanks again for the assistance and replies.
Will update when I have more info.
You can argue all day about it. In the end... if you want the truck fixed. read it with the factory scan tool that will tell you everything the ECUs have set. It will take all of 30 seconds if it is just a code. If no codes... then some logging and clues can be found in other areas. Never assume anything until you have tried or seen it yourself... I thought the same as you until I started messing with modern Toyota's.... They are the odd man out in terms of diagnostics.
The other option is throwing parts and obvious maintenance at it... Good luck either way.
Actually he's sort of right here. OBDII regulations allow 1 trip before an MIL needs to be set for most DTCs under the OBDII umbrella. This means a "Pending DTC" can be set and stored in the memory, but an MIL will not be set. When the fault occurs a second time the DTC is upgraded to a "Current DTC" and the MIL is turned on. Additionally for some DTCs/systems if only a pending DTC is stored and on the next test cycle and/or a certain number of drive cycles occurs without a second trip the DTC will be cleared and a "History DTC" will be stored for another set of drive cycles.
The OP already admitted that they've been disconnecting the battery and resetting the system, so it's entirely possible any DTCs that they had could have been Pending DTCs that have not yet upgraded to Current DTCs. Additionally I have seen faults that do not consistently trip an MIL or even a Pending DTC; it's a bit rare but does occur.
If you have TIS Techstream Software, what I would recommend trying is to find a safe place to drive the vehicle with the scantool hooked up. Then select "Engine" (it might be labeled ECM as well) under the modules list, then on the left hand menu list select "Utility". You should see an option labeled something along the lines of "Enable Check Mode" or just "Check Mode". Follow the prompts on the pop-up to enable "Check Mode".
What Check Mode does is tighten testing parameters and set the vehicle to a "One-Trip" setting. This means that rather than going Pending DTC -> Current DTC and needing the fault to occur twice; it will go straight to Current DTC, set the MIL and flag Freeze Frame data along with it. This is helpful for more inconsistent issues were a fault is not always showing up as a MIL or even a DTC.
~
On a side note, it could be something like a crank position sensor (not entirely sure it is or isn't). We saw a lot of the new 3rd gen Tacomas stall out and stumble because of a poorly designed crank position sensor (hence why we have the H0H Recall now) and those oddly would not set a DTC for the sensor itself; I guess the failure was too fast for the system to detect, but slow enough to stall out the engine? Not entirely sure why it wasn't consistently picked up by the ECM.
F it let’s throw parts at it. I’m surprised nobody has said check your starting and charging system. First things first :baby:. Most of the concerns I’ve had that other shops couldn’t repair were things that could’ve been resolved with basic diagnostic strategy.
Thanks for the additional replies. Small update:
So at this point we are pretty much throwing parts at it. It's been at the dealer for about a week. According to tech, no codes are showing up. In his tests fuel pressure is cutting out. Reproducable in right hand turns. The fuel pump signal isn't being cut but pressure is.
Next step is to drop tank to inspect wiring and possibly replace pump or filter.
He stated he will reach out to Toyota for more info as he is perplexed as well.
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Will do. Today I am trying to convince Toyota that they don't need to dismantle and remove my ARB drawers in the trunk to inspect fuel related wiring. From my recollection and pictures there is only a single wire that runs across the rear of the bare trunk area.Please keep updating. I might have issues with right hand turns as well...
IIRC, the wiring to the fuel pump runs along the inside of the left frame rail to the tank.
I'm pretty sure part #4 also lives on the inboard side of the left frame rail, just rearward of the fuel tank.
There are wiring harnesses that go on each side of the cargo area behind the interior panels but I don't think there's anything in those harnesses that go to the fuel tank or pump.