Engine Oil /Sludge

so i let my brother change my oil cause i didnt have time and he use 40w-70 ... :O is that okay??
 
so i let my brother change my oil cause i didnt have time and he use 40w-70 ... :O is that okay??

Only if he polished the muffler bearings and cleaned the sludge from the Johnson rod as part of the oil change. If he didn't do those items it could cause a thermonuclear event on the scale Iran wishes they could... I thought you were joking about the oil being that thick... Sorry. 3/13/10
 
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so i let my brother change my oil cause i didnt have time and he use 40w-70 ... :O is that okay??

Gear oil? The 4th gen is recommended for 5w-30 and 5w-20. And no, it's not OK.

Only if he polished the muffler bearings and cleaned the sludge from the Johnson rod as part of the oil change. If he didn't do those items it could cause a thermonuclear event on the scale Iran wishes they could...

:lol:
 
That's what the military uses in the 1500hp 70 ton Abrams gas turbine engine and it works just fine there. Sounds like you'll fix the potential sludge concern! That's gotta be the consistency of STP.

I've heard of it used in old worn out engines - along with saw dust in the transmission. I'd never use anything past 20w50 -even on old engine.
 
so wat could happen cause he used 40w-70 insteaad of 5w-30????
my 4R still feels fine.

It's fine right now. Unless you change it right now, hope you'll make it to your next oil change. If not, your engine is gonna blow up. I put 20w-50 on one of my former cars when i was in college (me being stupid period). 2K+ later, I was going about 75-80mph and all the sudden engine died, car was slowing down until it stopped. I looked at my rearview mirror and all i can see is a trace of oil. I popped up the hood everything looked fine. When i crawled underneath, there was a big hole on the topside of the crankcase.
 
so wat could happen cause he used 40w-70 insteaad of 5w-30????
my 4R still feels fine.

The problem is 40w-70 is a much thicker oil than 5w-30, so you could run the risk of oil not getting into smaller and tighter tolerance areas, like possibly spinning a bearing, etc.

I would suggest getting the 40w-70 flushed out and replace it with the correct oil. Some times people use a slightly thicker weight (the next viscosity up) in older engines to keep it from burning oil, but not that thick.
 
so wen i hit the 1k mile mark, do i just frain the 40w-70 oil and add the correct one? or am i supposed to use a "flush"?
 
The problem is 40w-70 is a much thicker oil than 5w-30, so you could run the risk of oil not getting into smaller and tighter tolerance areas, like possibly spinning a bearing, etc.

Ditto! Get rid of that goop ASAP. Your engine will run hotter at the bearings and cause all kinds of problems down the road. It won't show up on your temp gauge if the cooling system is doing it's job, but those bearings will get hotter-n-hell. I once put the wrong stuff in a manual transmission and within 10K miles it cost me $800 for a rebuild when internal linkages broke and engaged two gears simultaneously. Parts don't get the proper lubrication with oil viscosity 2-3x thicker than the engine was designed for.
 
Ditto! Get rid of that goop ASAP. Your engine will run hotter at the bearings and cause all kinds of problems down the road. It won't show up on your temp gauge if the cooling system is doing it's job, but those bearings will get hotter-n-hell. I once put the wrong stuff in a manual transmission and within 10K miles it cost me $800 for a rebuild when internal linkages broke and engaged two gears simultaneously. Parts don't get the proper lubrication with oil viscosity 2-3x thicker than the engine was designed for.

:iagree: Uneek, MikesToy and Cajunrunner are right, get it out of there.
 
TAKE YOUR TRUCK TO A MECHANIC. Seriously. Checkerlube, Jiffylube. Anything really. It`s apparent you and your brother have no mechanical background (no offense, just would hate to see you mess up your truck) and have no idea or what you are doing.

You can get a oil change for 30 bucks. An engine flush will prob cost you around a 100$ if they use a machine. Using gear oil in your engine is insane. :wow:
 
is a flush necessary, or do i just change the oil?

I would do a flush, since that 40w-70 stuff is thick and probably blocking some oil passages.

It's a bit late now to say, but I rather skip an OCI than to use an oil that thick in the engine.
 
na, 40w-70 is not bad.
Thicker oil is good for older engines.
Ask any real mechanic and they will all tell u the same ... oil is oil.
 
na, 40w-70 is not bad.
Thicker oil is good for older engines.
Ask any real mechanic and they will all tell u the same ... oil is oil.

Wow! Ok then I guess you should just carry on and do whatever you want. You obviously know better than everyone else and never really needed any advice. Good Luck and happy trolling!
 
arent i right? oil is oil? :)

Yeah and oil with 100k miles is just the same as oil with 1k miles? Ah no!!!! If you haven't listened to anything that anyone on here has told you, then you have rocks for brains. Just do yourself the favor and change that damned oil! Just drain and refill for pete's sake!
 

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