Engine readiness tests not complete and running rich at wot

SIKHILUXSURF

SIKHILUXSURF

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So I have had issues with poor fuel mileage since my knock sensors were replaced 2 years ago. Now I recently have issues with the ecu not finishing the readiness tests. It has been over a month since I reset the ecu from a engine cleaning service. I had to disconnect the maf sensor to shoot the cleaner into the throttle body and my guy reset the code after. Now over a month later the truck still won’t pass readiness tests and I have driven it local/fwy and mixed speeds. I have even disconnected the battery to let the ecu reset and still nothing. Tonight on my drive home is when I really noticed that I am running pig rich at wot. Since the afr wideband gauge shows me pegging 10afr and even 9 afr at times when I mash the pedal. I can smell how rich I am running with the window down in the rear. The past 2 days I have driven with this window down and noticed this. No engine lights and no codes because of the readiness tests not passed. Any ideas? I’m at a loss for words and this is just frustrating me so bad.anything I should do or check? The truck is going into the shop next week for some repairs after my fender bender recently so I’m going to have a compression. Test as well and engine leak down test done while it’s there.
 
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When if first installed by SC, it ran down to 10 at WOT pretty often. But now, it sticks somewhere in the 11s (after about a tankful of gas).

MY SG originally didn't show READY for a few miles, but finally hit READY after about 50 miles of driving.

The thing is, this is a false ready. Because I can guarantee you that the Cat is NOT in a ready state. Since I bought this car 8 years ago, every time I've disconnected the battery, the Cat would not get into a ready state unless I ran the required drive cycles. Which is impossible to do on the road, so I had to put the rear on jackstands and run the cycles that way. Not even a trip to Toyota could get it working (and they were trying to sell me a new Cat!!).

I do think you'd want something a bit more granular than the SG to determine which monitor isn't ready. I use Autoenginuity for that.
 
lockedlex said:
When if first installed by SC, it ran down to 10 at WOT pretty often. But now, it sticks somewhere in the 11s (after about a tankful of gas).

MY SG originally didn't show READY for a few miles, but finally hit READY after about 50 miles of driving.

The thing is, this is a false ready. Because I can guarantee you that the Cat is NOT in a ready state. Since I bought this car 8 years ago, every time I've disconnected the battery, the Cat would not get into a ready state unless I ran the required drive cycles. Which is impossible to do on the road, so I had to put the rear on jackstands and run the cycles that way. Not even a trip to Toyota could get it working (and they were trying to sell me a new Cat!!).

I do think you'd want something a bit more granular than the SG to determine which monitor isn't ready. I use Autoenginuity for that.
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thanks for the tip. whats weird is the running rich just recently started to show more on my afr gauge. so i am wondering if something recently changed as now if i punch it. at 4-5 psi im runing pig rich on the gauge like 9-10arf readings and the truck boggs down which is correct because of over fueling and i can also fuel so i know i'm wasting lots of fuel. i also wonder how to see if the truck is switching between open and closed loops as well.
 
SG does have an option (it's one of the gauges) to show LP and will show if it's open or closed. Under closed of course, you should be around 14.7 give or take.

Under open, it could be all over the place. If under closed you're seeing 10s, then we definitely have a problem I guess? Also, it should really open only under WOT from what I've seen, otherwise at partial it seems to stay closed and try its best to stay at 14.7.

It's possible maybe your O2 or MAF is out (but then I'd expect that would cause a CEL) causing it to run rich.
 
Check the coolant temp Tony.
That happened to my rig, and the damn thing was low on coolant. Once I filled it, drove 30 miles and everything came back to life.
If that doesnt work, you might need a new Coolant Temp Sensor.
 
lockedlex said:
SG does have an option (it's one of the gauges) to show LP and will show if it's open or closed. Under closed of course, you should be around 14.7 give or take.

Under open, it could be all over the place. If under closed you're seeing 10s, then we definitely have a problem I guess? Also, it should really open only under WOT from what I've seen, otherwise at partial it seems to stay closed and try its best to stay at 14.7.

It's possible maybe your O2 or MAF is out (but then I'd expect that would cause a CEL) causing it to run rich.
Click to expand...
ill look at that setting and see. at idle i am at 14.7 and normal acceleration im at 14.7. no cels and no check engine lights. but i know im running rich since the exhaust tip is black with soot.
 
hugo2go said:
Check the coolant temp Tony.
That happened to my rig, and the damn thing was low on coolant. Once I filled it, drove 30 miles and everything came back to life.
If that doesnt work, you might need a new Coolant Temp Sensor.
Click to expand...

i dont think im low but ill check again. temp senor would throw a code though.
 
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