Engine seized at 80K miles after timing belt change

[PitbullRescuer]

Did she run it out of oil?

I'm not sure what the Indy shop could've done to seize the engine after a TB job. Maybe and this is a stretch, they over torqued the crank bolt?

 

[the great him]

Did she run it out of oil?

I'm not sure what the Indy shop could've done to seize the engine after a TB job. Maybe and this is a stretch, they over torqued the crank bolt?

i dont think you can tighten that bolt enough to do that, i think the bolt would either strip out the threads in the crank or on the bolt itself or snap... and lord jesus only knows how in the hell you would get that much tq on the damn thing... i know i have tightened mine by putting a cheater bar on a breaker bar and resting that against the frame and bumping the starter a couple times(after removing the EFI fuse) to get it tight, but even then i still used a tq wrench with a cheater bar on it to go tighter till it clicked....

 

[Forrrrest]

Hey kid you know whats best for tightening the crank and other pulleys? A chain wrench, its effing awesome compared to most of the other pita methods I've heard of other people doing.
There is no way over tightening a crank bolt could cause that....

 

[the great him]

Hey kid you know whats best for tightening the crank and other pulleys? A chain wrench, its effing awesome compared to most of the other pita methods I've heard of other people doing.
There is no way over tightening a crank bolt could cause that....

yeah, the problem with a chain wrench is they damage pulleys...

 

[Forrrrest]

yeah, the problem with a chain wrench is they damage pulleys...

Very true buuuuuut, you take an old used belt wrap it around the pulley and make sure the chain is positioned on it. No harm done to it and makes a job easy and faster!

 

[PitbullRescuer]

There is no way over tightening a crank bolt could cause that....

Impact gun...

 

[TheDurk]

Very true buuuuuut, you take an old used belt wrap it around the pulley and make sure the chain is positioned on it. No harm done to it and makes a job easy and faster!

Not convinced. Moment-arm is what's important and it doesn't matter how you get it. I'm sure I can get my 24" breaker bar and cheater with my 2x4 holder thingy on there faster than you with your belt and chain wrench. For removal, nothing beats the starter bump. I have a chain wrench for things that require it. This doesn't.

I can still start my Farmall tractor with the crank if I need to. Keep your thumb on top with your fingers or you will lose it if it backfires.

Farmall Crank Start by Brandy - YouTube

However, I have to correct [MENTION=49442]thekid[/MENTION]. It is NOT called a crank shaft because you start it that way. The name refers to the 'machine' that is the connecting rod from the piston that is connected to the arm (in the mechanical sense) that is the offset from center axis where each connecting rod attaches to the shaft. There is, in fact, one crank per cylinder on the shaft. THAT is how it gets its name. They were called crankshafts on steam engines that existed before gas engines and that had no possibility or need of a crank start.

Crank (mechanism) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The crankshaft, sometimes abbreviated to crank, is the part of an engine that translates reciprocating linear piston motion into rotation

Crankshaft - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[TheDurk]

I hear PBR on the damage a big impact could do. My suspicion would be they over-stressed the crank by applying major forward or rearward pressure on it (a bad thing to do), perhaps trying to remove a stuck pulley with a jig or crowbar. That could over-stress the rod to shaft connections causing one to break loose. Just my WAG. A close look at the main seals could confirm this if either were out of place.

A puller jig on the shaft is OK. I'm talking about pushing against the front of the engine which is the bad way to do it.

 

[the great him]

i always thought that it was referred to as a main shaft... hence the term main bearings ect guess im wrong... oh well learn something new, and apparently the old timers are not always right either... :caked:

 

[TheDurk]

i always thought that it was referred to as a main shaft... hence the term main bearings ect guess im wrong... oh well learn something new, and apparently the old timers are not always right either... :caked:

Double-acting stationary steam engine. The piston is on the left, the crank is mounted on the flywheel axle on the right.

The main shaft on a marine steam engine is between the engine and the prop, paddlewheel, or gearbox (whichever is next). The crank can be on an 'intermediate shaft'. They would clutch them in and out on paddlewheelers, for example, to help in turning.

http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Steam_Engine_Crank

Main bearings on a crankshaft are the bearings from shaft to block, usually at the ends, as distinguished from the rod bearings for each cylinder.

BTW, I'm pretty sure I qualify as an old-timer.

 

[Arv]

and what do both of these two different items have in common...


thats right, they both have to do with the CRANK shaft... the one item on the vehicle called the crank... and why is it called the crank shaft? does anyone know.... oh thats right because back in the day(back before most of us if not all of us were born) there was actually a hand crank that would be attached or inserted into the end of the mainshaft (as it was called back then) and you would crank that over to start the motor, much like how old airplanes would have to be started... (some newb had to go out and spin the prop over by hand till the motor started spinning that giant blender blade all by itself...


oh and lets not forget the crank shaft position sensor.... heaven forbid that seize... :help:

Oh!Oh!Oh! I got one, Positive Crankcase Ventilation! Another one, window crank! Oh well, that's not really what that is called.

Yeah, when he posed that question, I said "What??", but i decided to be nice and just posted "crankshaft". I guess he never heard "Crank 'er up!" either.