Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

[TFRnoob]

Compared to engine removal, how involved is transmission removal?

Any good step by steps out there? I know there are usually 100 ways to skin a cat and I have seen instructions that seem unnecessarily laborious and others that have some good tricks to make things easier.

Will I need to disconnect the transmission from the driveshaft to move the transmission out of the way enough to access the flexplate and rear main seal? If so I am really lost on how to do that. It seems like it pulls out endlessly... I assume there have to be bolts somewhere though.

Thanks all.

 

[Konkordmusk]

Compared to engine removal, how involved is transmission removal?

Any good step by steps out there? I know there are usually 100 ways to skin a cat and I have seen instructions that seem unnecessarily laborious and others that have some good tricks to make things easier.

Will I need to disconnect the transmission from the driveshaft to move the transmission out of the way enough to access the flexplate and rear main seal? If so I am really lost on how to do that. It seems like it pulls out endlessly... I assume there have to be bolts somewhere though.

Thanks all.

The driveshaft is just bolts/nuts. I would pull the rear ujoint end off first, then the front. Doesn't really matter either way.

I don't know if there's a best write up out there. To be honest, I'm willing to bet you'd be able to crawl under there and see what needs to be disconnected. Any wiring that harnesses to the body, the mounts, draining the fluid, are all pretty generic steps.

Ideally though, you would want to accurately diagnose the issue. You don't sound sure, and neither does your mechanic. You need to know for sure before you pull things apart because once they are, if the problem isn't obvious, you won't know specifically what to fix. And you definitely won't be able to run it to find out.

 

[TFRnoob]

The driveshaft is just bolts/nuts. I would pull the rear ujoint end off first, then the front. Doesn't really matter either way.

I don't know if there's a best write up out there. To be honest, I'm willing to bet you'd be able to crawl under there and see what needs to be disconnected. Any wiring that harnesses to the body, the mounts, draining the fluid, are all pretty generic steps.

Ideally though, you would want to accurately diagnose the issue. You don't sound sure, and neither does your mechanic. You need to know for sure before you pull things apart because once they are, if the problem isn't obvious, you won't know specifically what to fix. And you definitely won't be able to run it to find out.

Good call. I spoke w/ the mechanic again today and he is leaning towards main bearings because he says you can feel the vibrational thuds, its really loud and he also correlates the rear main seal leak with that crankshaft issue for some reason.

The odd thing was that when he jumped the starter, he told me everything sounded pretty good. Then a couple says later I get the news that the wiring problem was fixed but the engine sounds like hell.

Anyway, I will pick my truck up tonight and see if I can make a video with all of the horrible sounds.

How can I begin to diagnose the issue. I am of the same opinion that before I waste time and money just throwing parts at my truck that I should find out what is wrong with it. So any ideas on how to narrow this down?

Thanks in advance.

 

[TheDurk]

The driveshaft is just bolts/nuts. I would pull the rear ujoint end off first, then the front. Doesn't really matter either way.

Us stickshifters know how to pull a transmission. No need to undo the rear on the main shaft, just do the front and push it aside. The front shaft is tougher to compress, so pulling the diff end, which is bolts, makes sense, since the TC end is nuts-on-studs. Pull the bolts, and the front is flange on flange, so the end slides down, and you can pull the rear end off the studs.

Here are some clutch DIY's. They will get you most of the way there.

5VZ Clutch Job - TTORA Forum

Toyota 4Runner Clutch Replacement on 4x4Wire.com

I would five times prefer pulling a transmission to pulling an engine.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Good call. I spoke w/ the mechanic again today and he is leaning towards main bearings because he says you can feel the vibrational thuds, its really loud and he also correlates the rear main seal leak with that crankshaft issue for some reason.

The odd thing was that when he jumped the starter, he told me everything sounded pretty good. Then a couple says later I get the news that the wiring problem was fixed but the engine sounds like hell.

Anyway, I will pick my truck up tonight and see if I can make a video with all of the horrible sounds.

How can I begin to diagnose the issue. I am of the same opinion that before I waste time and money just throwing parts at my truck that I should find out what is wrong with it. So any ideas on how to narrow this down?

Thanks in advance.

Been following your thread and hoping for the best for you. If it gets to this point I just found this California add posted up here in Portland CL. Not bad for 45K - if that's the true mileage. Let's hope you don't need this and it's a simple fix for you.

JDM Toyota 5VZ 3.4L Engine Tacoma 4Runner Tundra T100

 

[TFRnoob]

Us stickshifters know how to pull a transmission. No need to undo the rear on the main shaft, just do the front and push it aside. The front shaft is tougher to compress, so pulling the diff end, which is bolts, makes sense, since the TC end is nuts-on-studs. Pull the bolts, and the front is flange on flange, so the end slides down, and you can pull the rear end off the studs.

Here are some clutch DIY's. They will get you most of the way there.

5VZ Clutch Job - TTORA Forum

Toyota 4Runner Clutch Replacement on 4x4Wire.com

I would five times prefer pulling a transmission to pulling an engine.

Thanks for the info! These look like some good resources. I had a feeling a transmission was was simpler than the engine swap. Disconnecting everything is one thing but actually getting the engine out and back in and aligned is a serious pain. The logistics of everything is crazy... renting an engine hoist (which I should have just purchased at this point), maneuvering the engine onto the engine stand, dragging it across my uneven backyard lawn (both dangerous and exhausting), and the added pressure of my landlord just seems almost unbearable at this point haha I am really hoping its just the flexplate/ rear main seal! Again, thank you for being so helpful and responsive to this thread. It has definitely helped me out and hopefully others.

Been following your thread and hoping for the best for you. If it gets to this point I just found this California add posted up here in Portland CL. Not bad for 45K - if that's the true mileage. Let's hope you don't need this and it's a simple fix for you.

JDM Toyota 5VZ 3.4L Engine Tacoma 4Runner Tundra T100

Preaching to the choir. Thanks for looking out. I expect the worst but am hoping for the best. I spoke with the junkyard and they are being a real pain. They are telling me that their 90 day money back guarantee mean that I get credit to the junkyard... I don't want store credit to a $&@ing junkyard! If I can get my $1100 back then that is the engine I have my sights on for sure!

 

[TFRnoob]

UPDATE:

The mechanic closes at 5 on weekdays and isn't open on weekends. I paid my bill over the phone and they left the key for me. I swung by after work to check the truck out. Here are the results:

The knocking wasn't as bad as I had imagined but was still a head turner and was vibrating my seat slightly. The truck drives. I let it kind of warm up and I nervously pulled out of the parking spot. I pulled up to my car and just idled.

After a little while I see the oil light come on!

I immediately turned around and parking it back into the spot. She will be towed to my house this weekend sometime.

Anyway, the oil light indicates low oil pressure. Does this lead us to the conclusion of bad bearings or can it simply be caused by the leaking rear main seal etc? I hope this isn't :rip: for my truck... again.

Maybe if its the bearings I can go through the oil pan. hahaha JK but I do wish it was this simple.

 

[TheDurk]

Did you check the oil dipstick?

 

[TFRnoob]

Did you check the oil dipstick?

No, I simply panicked and ran away from the situation. I will check all fluid levels and post a video of the sound when I have it towed to my house this weekend.

I will also post a pic of the mess I was left with in the driver's seat upon retrieving my truck... a little disappointing. I have no complaints about the mechanics that took a look at the truck but I thought leaving the dash unbolted with wires hanging all over the place was a little unprofessional but perhaps time is money and the $200 didn't quite cover that part...

 

[TFRnoob]

My landlord really doesn't like the truck in the driveway. Are rental garages for DIYers a thing? It seems I know nobody with a garage...

 

[TFRnoob]

This is how the driver side was left for me when I picked the truck up. I am going to have to figure out how to put all of these wires back. I don't think it should be too hard but we will see I guess.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Brother, I have done a LOT of rebuilds (mainly hi-perf motorcycles but several car motors also) and if you ran that motor dry on oil it is toast. There is no way around that. You may get it to start and run but what will happen is one or more bearings are going to seize when you are driving and at minimum you are to throw a rod(s). You might have 100 miles left, you might have 300. But the clock is ticking everytime you start it. When that happens, the block is completely gone and usually ends with a big bole in it. Unfortunately you probably also ruined the cylinders and at best this engine will burn oil like a freight train. I seriously doubt you will be able to pass a smog. If the truck itself is in good shape, you should drop the bucks and get a reman engine. Junkyard engines are a huge gamble IMO. Expensive lesson to learn and one which I am sure you'll never make again. ;-) Best of luck.

 

[TFRnoob]

Did you check the oil dipstick?

Just checked it. It looks like I definitely have enough oil. It seems a little too clear and not viscous enough to be oil almost. Perhaps it is only so clear because it is brand new oil. I might normally suspect a blown head gasket but I do not because a leak down test passed before I put the engine in.

Next steps?

 

[TFRnoob]

Okay I have a video up of the noises the 4runner makes on Youtube, check it out and let me know what you think:

https://youtu.be/OiP5QoUpgUo

It has oil and I haven't seen the oil light come on since the first day I picked it up from the mechanic.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I truly feel bad for you after reading through this last page. I know it must be pretty tough that things didn't work out quite as we'd all hoped.

 

[TFRnoob]

I truly feel bad for you after reading through this last page. I know it must be pretty tough that things didn't work out quite as we'd all hoped.

Thanks, its is definitely a bummer but it's not over yet. If I can find a place to work on it I will do it all again if I have to. :banana:

 

[cashmoney]

Crazy, crazy, stupid idea, but try sea foaming the engine oil as well as injecting it through the throttle body. I've only seen it clean up a sound like that once but it's worth a shot.

On the plus side, if you've got to pull the engine for another replacement you should be able to do it in half the time!

 

[TFRnoob]

Crazy, crazy, stupid idea, but try sea foaming the engine oil as well as injecting it through the throttle body. I've only seen it clean up a sound like that once but it's worth a shot.

On the plus side, if you've got to pull the engine for another replacement you should be able to do it in half the time!

Why not try it i guess. It's pretty cheap, don't think it will do much but I can seafoam my other car too.

Do you think the noise could still be a loose or cracked flexplate or are we all thinking rod and/or main bearings?

I am also assuming its not upper end stuff but I could be completely wrong.

 

[TFRnoob]

The more I think about the service the mechanic did, the more I am disappointed.

For $200 here are the notes:

"car towed in, wont start, no crank. check after market alarm for starter signal interruption. Rewired the starter signal wire at the ignition switch (black wire) and still no signal to starter relay. Note constant power on switch signal pin in relay box. Put vehicle on lift and checked wiring harness connectorsand grounds and all are present and plugged in correctly. Noted passenger side engine mount loose and and missing bolt. Jumped relay and engine turns over but fuel pump not being turned on. Used scanner to try and turn pump on and that did not work. Tried clearing P0100 FO MAF signal problem, and it sets again immediately. Installed known good MAF and code still sets immediately. Suspect incorrect or damaged wiring harness based on backdoor voltage at relayfor starter, hard code for known good part, and no bidirectional control of fuel pump. Found problem at gang connector behind the glove box that was not completely plugged together. Engine started up but heard a knocking noise and saw an oil leak from the rear main"

What isn't mentioned is that the alarm doesn't work anymore, the dash was all over the place with wires everywhere and no concrete diagnosis of knocking was made. :wtf: (I am probably being harsh but I am a little irked about the situation.)

Anyway, here I am, and the situation remains the same. Time to get to work on finding out what the knocking is...

 

[Diezel]

What isn't mentioned is that the alarm doesn't work anymore, the dash was all over the place with wires everywhere and no concrete diagnosis of knocking was made. :wtf: (I am probably being harsh but I am a little irked about the situation.)

Anyway, here I am, and the situation remains the same. Time to get to work on finding out what the knocking is...

Typical mechanic couldn't figure out the Alarm. Honestly, not his job. So he bypassed it (Check to make sure the alarm harness, is still plugged into the alarm brain).

That knock, Sure sounds like it is a lower end knock.