Engine won't start - new starter contacts + plunger, new Interstate battery

[spartacus]

here is the fsm testing starter instruction.*to test

If you have no klick in start then you need to look at why.

First thing is put your hand on the start relay in the under hood junction box and see if you can feel it klick when you put the key to start.

If you do not feel it klick pull the relay and look for 12v on the slot that lines up with terminal 1 of the relay with key in start.

If you do then look for a ground on the slot that lines up with terminal 2 of the relay.

If you have a ground on 2 and 12v on 1 with key in start the relay if good should be klicking.

If your relay under the hood operates with key in start then you need to remove the small wire from the starter and look for 12v there with key in start.

A test light is much easier to use to test this.

To look for power on the slot for pin 1 of the relay you simply clip the clamp to any bolt or the neg battery terminal and put the probe in the slot. With key in start position the bulb should light up bright.

To look for a ground (comming from the trans or clutch switch) on the slot from pin 2 you simply put the probe in the slot for the relay pin 2 and clip the wire to the battery + terminal. If you have a automatic it should light up with the trans gear selector in both park and neutral. If you have a manual trans pushing in the clutch should light the bulb.


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pull the relay or fuse and you will see the contacts.contact points or terminals are marked 1 2 3 4

 

[etc.]

Disassemble the two positive wires at the battery and clean where they contact each other.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Spartacus thanks for posting the layout.


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[spartacus]

[MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] thanks for the steps. Luckily ignition wasn't on. To confirm, here's what I'm doing:

1st test: Connect red jumper to battery (+) terminal. Carefully touch other end of red jumper to starter (+) terminal. What position should the key be in? Isn't this the same as the current config since the starter has a direct battery connection?

2nd test (if 1st test fails): Leave red jumper to battery (+). Connect one end of black jumper to battery (-), other end of black jumper to engine block or chassis. Am I understanding the black jumper connections right? Carefully touch other end of red jumper to starter (+) terminal. What position should the key be in?

[MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION] I'll start checking the starter relay etc if the above fails.






the red or positive goes to the 12 volt terminal on the solonoid after you remove the wire from the relay/ignition. if the starter engages then you know there is an issue with the ignition/relay circuit if it doesnt like when you tried it earlier then even though you bypassed the ignition circuit and the starter did not engage that means there is problem down to the ground now when you hook up the negative or black cable to the negative of battery and hook it to the engine ground or chasis ground and the starter motor engages then you know there is a ground fault. the concept is to isolate the starter to battery only so none of the other components come into play and get effected and figure out on which side of the load (meaning the starter) there is a problem. hope this helps

19963.4lsr5 has some good advice and directions too.

 

[Doc2012]

Why don’t you try putting it neutral and starting it.

There’s a cover on the shifter. Pop that off, press the little button, shift to neutral, and try starting the truck.

If it starts, it’s your NSS. If it doesn’t, well go from there.


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[thecole1098]

Why don’t you try putting it neutral and starting it.

There’s a cover on the shifter. Pop that off, press the little button, shift to neutral, and try starting the truck.

If it starts, it’s your NSS. If it doesn’t, well go from there.


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This. I had this same issue on my 96 when I first bought it. I got no clicks or anything from the starter relay when in park, but when I popped it in neutral boom started right up.

 

[3ngineer]

Update: I tried some of the recommendations from [MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION] and [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] and it still didn't start. After spending two weeks troubleshooting it, I finally decided to have it towed to a good local mechanic. After many hours of investigation, they found this device under the steering column inline with a green wire. After removing this reconnecting the green wire, the car started.

I'm not sure what this is, but because of the FCC ID I suspect it's for the key remote. I'll test it when I get home today.

Thanks all for your help, especially 1999SR5 & sparatcus. I'm glad I brought it in to the pro's... I probably wouldn't have figured it out. But as [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] said.. the knowledge I gained from this process was priceless. Plus, I got fresh starter contacts out of this. One less thing to worry about on a 20 year old truck.

 

[spartacus]

Update: I tried some of the recommendations from [MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION] and [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] and it still didn't start. After spending two weeks troubleshooting it, I finally decided to have it towed to a good local mechanic. After many hours of investigation, they found this device under the steering column inline with a green wire. After removing this reconnecting the green wire, the car started.

I'm not sure what this is, but because of the FCC ID I suspect it's for the key remote. I'll test it when I get home today.

Thanks all for your help, especially 1999SR5 & sparatcus. I'm glad I brought it in to the pro's... I probably wouldn't have figured it out. But as [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] said.. the knowledge I gained from this process was priceless. Plus, I got fresh starter contacts out of this. One less thing to worry about on a 20 year old truck.

I am glad you got it up and running.