Engineered Skid Plates

m85476585

New member
Does anyone make skid plates for our trucks that are engineered for better strength to weight? A flat plate is not a very strong shape, but most skid plates seem to be just a flat plate with bent sides. For example, take a sheet of paper and try to bend it. Now fold it in an accordion pattern and try to bend it across the folds. The ARB skid plate is along the lines of what I'm thinking since it's pressed and folded, but it's known to bend easily, so it may not be the best design. It's 3mm steel (0.118, or about 63% as thick as the standard 3/16 heavy duty steel plates), which should be enough with sufficient reinforcement.

I think it's generally preferred that skid plates be flat on the bottom so you don't get hung up on them. It's also preferred if the material facing down is slippery, like steel or even plastic (UHMW, for example, but HDPE is a cheaper option). And it needs to be thick enough (including backing material) not to be dented or punctured by sharp rocks. I think some skids, maybe for jeeps or FJs use a thin replaceable stainless sheet covering the skid, which may be made of Aluminum.

I haven't installed skid plates yet, but I imagine there would be space for reinforcement above a lot of the flat area without having to lower the plate and decrease ground clearance. For example, it looks like there's a lot of space between the transmission skid and the transmission pan, and some of that space could be used to give the plate structure.

An example would be welding parallel pieces of angle stock to the top side. The triangular sections that are formed would be many times stronger than a plain sheet, like accordion folded paper, and thinner stock could be used so overall weight is the same or decreased. I would make something like this myself, but unfortunately I don't know how to analyze the strength of a part (finite element would be good), and I don't have the equipment, skills, time, or money to fabricate something out of metal.

I'm thinking about doing a DIY gas tank skid. Since it doesn't get hot like the engine and exhaust, I can use materials other than metal with less risk of fire. It's big and flat, so it might benefit from some structure. It seems to be able to tolerate some dents, so if I mess up it wouldn't be ruined. The downside is that there's no space for additional thickness here without decreasing ground clearance, unlike some of the other skids.

Materials I'm considering are UHMW/HDPE, fiberglass, or even wood for stiffness, and a thin steel sheet for abrasion resistance. And I just remembered G10/FR4 which is basically what they use to make printed circuit boards. It's a fiberglass composite made under pressure, so the strength to weight is better than any fiberglass composite I could do at home.
McMaster-Carr
A 2ftx3ft 1/4" thick sheet is probably indestructible*, and it only weighs 15lbs by my calculations. I'm not sure how big the gas tank is, but probably not a lot more surface area than that. A thin sheet of steel would give it abrasion resistance without a lot of extra weight. G10 can be cut on a water jet or using abrasive tools (carbide or diamond) like you would use for glass or tile. I have an abrasive jigsaw blade that will cut it, but I don't know how it would handle 1/4" thick sheets.

*McMaster has material properties for it on their site. I would have to learn more about material properties to compare it to steel, but it looks like the tensile strength is higher than some grades of steel. Definitely higher than 5052-0 aluminum. If you press a sheet of it into the corner of a rock, the part closest to the rock is in compression and the part farthest from the rock is in tension. Since it's thicker than steel for the same weight, I think it has an advantage, but I'm not sure.

Higher grades of aluminum in skid plates would be nice, too, but they would probably get expensive. Jeep guys seem to be using some 6061 T6 aluminum to replace steel, and it's a lot stronger than 5052-0 aluminum, like double the strength.
 
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I don't know what other skids are like, I built my own and agree with you. I ended up just welding some square tubing on the top of the skid plate to increase the stiffness (since moment of inertia is a cube of the height, so a hollow tube with a little area on top obviously does a lot). The main issue was volume constraints, I was trying to get as much clearance as possible and doing that but stuffing a more 3 dimensional structure was difficult. I know my stock skid (as I presume all generation's skids are) is very engineered and 3 dimensional, I know aftermarket is supposed to be better but the stock setup is very strong besides the fact the metal is thin since the inside portion is multilayered to increase stiffness. I have to make a new skid since I destroyed the one I had built, and will probably do a more thorough and engineered design the second time around.
 
tldr. ARB skids are complete garbage (threw mine away). I think Bud's are the best design. Flat surface, cover alignment cams, cross member behind the transfer case, square tubing to spread load from the skid plate to the frame cross member in front, etc.
 
I don't know what other skids are like, I built my own and agree with you. I ended up just welding some square tubing on the top of the skid plate to increase the stiffness (since moment of inertia is a cube of the height, so a hollow tube with a little area on top obviously does a lot). The main issue was volume constraints, I was trying to get as much clearance as possible and doing that but stuffing a more 3 dimensional structure was difficult. I know my stock skid (as I presume all generation's skids are) is very engineered and 3 dimensional, I know aftermarket is supposed to be better but the stock setup is very strong besides the fact the metal is thin since the inside portion is multilayered to increase stiffness. I have to make a new skid since I destroyed the one I had built, and will probably do a more thorough and engineered design the second time around.

Nice build thread! I need to stop by the 3rd gen section more often.
 

But they are still mostly just flat plates. Surely there's some room for reinforcing ribs on the top side where it wouldn't affect how it slides.
4th_gen_4R_Mid_S_4ff5daa9a6e72.png
 
OP: I did exactly what you are describing when I built my custom skid plates.

Front skid:
PICT0772.jpg


Belly skid:
PICT1573.jpg~original


I only used 1/8" thick steel for the skidplates, but added ribs in strategic locations on the inside. This also helps keep the skids very light. The other thing I did (which I think is extremely important) is to use multiple mounting locations. Let the truck's frame/crossmembers take the load as much as possible.

Most aftermarket skids just have a few mounting points on either end of the skid, with a large span of unsupported skid inbetween. With multiple mounting points it spreads out the load. Of course the down side is that it takes a little longer to remove and install the skids.
 
^^ Damn homie, that's a nice skid plate! Have you tested it yet? I'd like to know how the 1/8" steel holds up with that design.
 
^^ Damn homie, that's a nice skid plate! Have you tested it yet? I'd like to know how the 1/8" steel holds up with that design.

The skidplates have held up great for what I use them for. I don't do too much hardcore rock crawling, but I've hit a few stumps and logs with them in the woods. Just scratches, no major damage.
 
Most of the flat belly skids do well, mostly due to using thick steel and reinforcement bends of the wings + mounting on frame sections. It's not perfect, but it's mass-marketable and works for the most part.

I honestly don't know how I'd feel about polymer or fiberglass based skids, they're basically non-repairable should anything happen to them, where as steel and even aluminum could be repaired and reworked.

Realistically if I were going to make my own skid plates (I am running the RCI steel ones with good effect for now, had to bend out my front after it got tweaked from some impacts) I would go with a slight keel/triangular style and reinforce that with some ribs. The idea being that the triangular shape would be a bit stronger for impacts and promote the vehicle to slide off objects vs. getting hung up on them (though it would probably promote more side to side sliding than flat skids.)
 
If I were to 'engineer' my own skid plates, I would first determine my priorities. I would ask myself what exactly do I want these things to do and what do I want them to do the best. For example, a design for light weight drive-train protection (ARB style skid plates) could be very different to something designed for totally smoothing out the underbody to prevent hangups (Budbult style).
Unfortunately, there's always going to be a compromise somewhere between function, weight and cost.
 
If I lived somewhere I had access to a welder (like my dad's shop), I'd engineer the crap out of some skid plates. A mix of 5/32" and 1/8" plate with 1/8" doublers and/or stiffeners in high-stress areas. The ones Bandit Runner posted would be a good start. Maybe even a steel/aluminum hybrid with a steel wear plate bolted to a lightweight aluminum frame (don't tell me it won't work, even if it won't... it's just a concept).

If I were to pay a shop by the hour they'd cost a fortune.

Unfortunately, I don't live near his shop, and I don't have the time while visiting to build them. So eventually I'll just fork over the money and get a set from Shrockworks or BudBuilt.
 
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Those are amazing and exactly what I’m looking for. Are you in the market to make another set


QUOTE=Bandit Runner;1963087]OP: I did exactly what you are describing when I built my custom skid plates.

Front skid:
PICT0772.jpg


Belly skid:
PICT1573.jpg~original


I only used 1/8" thick steel for the skidplates, but added ribs in strategic locations on the inside. This also helps keep the skids very light. The other thing I did (which I think is extremely important) is to use multiple mounting locations. Let the truck's frame/crossmembers take the load as much as possible.

Most aftermarket skids just have a few mounting points on either end of the skid, with a large span of unsupported skid inbetween. With multiple mounting points it spreads out the load. Of course the down side is that it takes a little longer to remove and install the skids.[/QUOTE]
 
Toyota engineers the best strength to weight skids in aware of. They're just not strong enough for regular rock crawling. The same designs in heavier gauge steel would be ideal.

Skid plates need to do a few things. They need to be tough enough for puncture resistance, stiff enough to bridge between mounting points, and be hard enough to slide well. And then be as thin as possible for clearance. Toyota OEM ones are good on every metric except the outer shell being strong enough for repeated impacts. They turn into raisins. But - they actually do a really good job of protecting what's underneath despite looking really bad after being beat on.

Optimizing for clearance means flat plates in most cases. Stamped or formed shapes can significantly increase stiffness and resist deforming, but the thinner metal will not resist punctures or point loads well. And many very high tensile strength materials like carbon fiber, aramid, or fiberglass in frp composite forms can be light weight, strong and stiff, but they perform poorly on impacts and tend to be fragile as well as lack the surface hardness to resist damage from sliding on rocks.

In a lot of cases by time the steel is thick enough for puncture resistance it's also thick enough to not need additional stiffness from complex stamping or fabricated stiffener designs. For example if you need 1/8" plate minimum for puncture resistance, it'll probably be the best option to use 3/16 plate for stiffness instead of 1/8"plate and 1" height stiffener ribs. Saving 10lb but losing an inch of clearance isn't a good trade for most people.

But in other places the stiffeners make sense. Like the transmission skid that spans a longer distance. I used lighter gauge steel on mine with stiffener channel on the upper side. It worked well with 1/8" plate. But it did have some pretty deep dents by the end in the thinner material. Never punctured all the way through though.

Flat plates end up often the best engineering choice if you're limited to mild steel or common aluminum alloys. Cored composite sheets are the stiffest strongest sheet material I know of per lb. I built my sailboat from honeycomb core and carbon/aramid/fiberglass combo. It's actually pretty decent stuff to work with. It could be an option to layer enough thickness of aramid on the outer layer. I'm not sure how much or if it'd be lighter than steel once it's thick enough. If we combined that with a layer of uhss for puncture resistance I think it could end up being both very light and hold up to impacts and punctures pretty well.

But would people pay $5k for a set of plates that save 150lbs? I'm not sure.
 
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