Escape tools
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DeathCougar
New member
Ugh such incorrect information from the guy at the wrecking yard.
The ONLY tint that will hold glass together like that is aftermarket film type tint. OEM tint is not plastic film type so the glass will still break like traditional tempered glass. Aftermarket filn type tint also makes it harder to break the glass with that tool, since you have to break through the layer of plastic to get to the actual glass.
This little orange tool is useful, but $10 useful? Eh I don't think so.
The ONLY tint that will hold glass together like that is aftermarket film type tint. OEM tint is not plastic film type so the glass will still break like traditional tempered glass. Aftermarket filn type tint also makes it harder to break the glass with that tool, since you have to break through the layer of plastic to get to the actual glass.
This little orange tool is useful, but $10 useful? Eh I don't think so.
cleveland48
New member
I keep a knife, razor knife, and a pistol. The knife and razor are to cut through seatbelts. Gun is if someone tries to rob me, or to shoot holes in glass to make it easier to bust. Also if I'm trapped and on fire I can just off myself cause I ain't gonna burn in the damn thing for sure.
Apex Overland
New member
I keep a glock 23 and a les stroud knife in the truck.
In the time it takes to find a tool and cut the seatbelt, couldn't you just unbuckle the seatbelt? I'm having a hard time imagining a crash such that you wouldn't be able to unbuckle the seatbelt.
And if you are in crash that damages the door badly enough to get it stuck, wouldn't the glass explode anyway? IIHS does tests with the side windows down for some reason (maybe they got tired of cleaning up broken glass!), but if you watch the 4runner small overlap test you can see the side glass explode inside the door on the slow motion shot.
The last case I can think of is landing in water, in which case you should open the window before the car is submerged, or you have to wait for the pressure to equalize. Manual crank windows have an advantage here since they don't need electricity!
I wouldn't want to shoot out a window. The blast would be deafening in an enclosed space without ear protection.
And if you are in crash that damages the door badly enough to get it stuck, wouldn't the glass explode anyway? IIHS does tests with the side windows down for some reason (maybe they got tired of cleaning up broken glass!), but if you watch the 4runner small overlap test you can see the side glass explode inside the door on the slow motion shot.
The last case I can think of is landing in water, in which case you should open the window before the car is submerged, or you have to wait for the pressure to equalize. Manual crank windows have an advantage here since they don't need electricity!
I wouldn't want to shoot out a window. The blast would be deafening in an enclosed space without ear protection.
A/V1
New member
You also have to remember that whatever you choose to have as your emergency tool(s), they need to be accessible after the crash, as well as before when you are fat, dumb, & happy. You could very well roll several times, be crashed into from behind, or any number of scenarios.
If you simply place the tool in your door pocket in hopes to use it after a crash, you may be sadly mistaken. It may wind up in the back of the vehicle, or even thrown from the vehicle. You need to figure a good way to secure it, so it will be within reach, and will not be a projectile to injure or kill you or your passengers.
If you simply place the tool in your door pocket in hopes to use it after a crash, you may be sadly mistaken. It may wind up in the back of the vehicle, or even thrown from the vehicle. You need to figure a good way to secure it, so it will be within reach, and will not be a projectile to injure or kill you or your passengers.
Strong velcro in arm's reach of the driver seems like the best option. If I had one, I would probably mount it by my leg on the center tunnel or the door.
As far as I know, 3M Dual Lock is the best velcro. It's expensive, but it's much stronger than regular velcro, and the adhesive is much stronger, too (the one I've used, anyway. They might have different grades of adhesive.)
Amazon.com: 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3561/TB3562 400/170 Clear 1 in x 10 ft (1 Mated Strip/Bag): Industrial & Scientific
It's the same stuff they use to secure toll transponders, which are another thing that you wouldn't want to go flying in an accident. At my last job we routinely used it on military hardware.
techno
New member
These are good questions, but let me give you some answers based on my experience as a firefighter.
Sometimes after a crash it can be very difficult to unbuckle the seatbelt. The buckle can be under considerable tension after the belt pre-tensioners activate and this makes pressing the button quite hard. Also, it can often be impossible to physically reach the buckle after interior parts move around. But in most cases, a user will be using a blade to cut a belt on someone else, not themselves. From the outside reaching in to unbuckle is vary hard, it's much easier and faster to cut the belt closer to the doors.
Todays autoglass is very strong and remarkably flexible. You would be surprised to see what it can survive without breaking. I've needed to break the glass on stuck and buckled doors dozens of times.
Good to know, thanks!
96 ToyRunner
Member
Lol I have a lot I can use but the first thing in mind is my hatchet I have next to my driver seat..
No offense but I agree with the post above. After a wreck, you have no idea where things are going to be. IMHO, I DO NOT want to be in a serious wreck in your car if you have a hatchet in there.
96 ToyRunner
Member
I have a fiskars hatchet with the lock case and its tucked in my seat but really anything can happen the tools in side the truck even a pencil can take you out just my opinion..