Esoteric preventative maintenance

[repo]

Now that most of us are well in to the 200Ks and some in the 300Ks what are the more unusual or lesser known and talked about jobs that are reasonable to do as PM that you can think of? Beyond the obvious high priority ones like LBJs and such. Or things that are worth it in terms of drivability?

I prefer to replace stuff at the age before it becomes a problem rather than after it becomes a problem (and people need to get to school or work the next morning).

A few I have on the list which are still original:

Fan clutch.
PN switch.
ECT sensor.
Driver seat foam pads.
Accelerator cable (squishy thing is disintegrated).

 

[FD7683]

Check your rear hatch wire harness to see if there are any frayed/cracked wires. Better to fix it now with splices rather than have something go out.

Take a look at your rubber brake lines for any cracks and if you live in a crusty area, check the hard brake lines for any rust.

For the accelerator cable grommet, my setup is in the pic below - works fantastic. Just don't have the accelerator cable super tight as the gas pedal is a bit touchy after the grommet mod. A super tiny amount of play in the gas pedal is ideal.

 

[spartacus]

Now that most of us are well in to the 200Ks and some in the 300Ks what are the more unusual or lesser known and talked about jobs that are reasonable to do as PM that you can think of? Beyond the obvious high priority ones like LBJs and such. Or things that are worth it in terms of drivability?

I prefer to replace stuff at the age before it becomes a problem rather than after it becomes a problem (and people need to get to school or work the next morning).

A few I have on the list which are still original:

Fan clutch.
PN switch.
ECT sensor.
Driver seat foam pads.
Accelerator cable (squishy thing is disintegrated).

These trucks are phenomenally reliable with just regular maintenance. Just incase shit happens stuff can get fairly lenthy.
If never replaced original, Rubber hoses, tps, maf, heater valve, cts, starter contacts, alternator, brake booster, master cylinder, charcoal canister vsv valve. fuel injectors, filter and pump. cam and crank sensors filler neck valve to name a few. .

 

[FD7683]

fuel injectors

Would also like to add on the list that if one goes out, its best to replace all 6 with upgraded Denso ones from MotorWest Performance in California. Those eBay/Amazon ones are apparently trash but the MotorWest ones in my truck are going very strong despite only being in there for a month.

 

[spartacus]

Would also like to add on the list that if one goes out, its best to replace all 6 with upgraded Denso ones from MotorWest Performance in California. Those eBay/Amazon ones are apparently trash but the MotorWest ones in my truck are going very strong despite only being in there for a month.

Not necessarily. I've replaced only one due to a misfire few years ago and so far so good.

 

[JoeT4R]

+1 on the fan clutch. I chased that problem for YEARS and I mean literal years. Had a problem where my coolant temps would rise beyond normal operating temperature when I ran the A/C on really hot days just sitting/idling. So 10/10 WOULD recommend. Get yourself an Aisin unit and you’ll be golden

I’d definitely recommend A/F ratio sensor/o2 sensors, it could yield some better MPG’s and prevent error codes. Definitely use Denso sensors only. You can look up the part numbers on Denso’s website and typically can buy then on Amazon

Brake line are great to do. I’ve got extended, braided ones from Wheeler’s Off-Road and love them! Definitely would recommend that company for sure.

Other random items would be PCV valve and appropriate hoses, all 3 belts (alternator, power steering, A/C), replace wipers and even the windshield washer nozzles— I just upgraded mine to the Honda Odyssey ones, they spray wayyyy better than the originals, Big 3 upgrade, drain and fill everything (T-case, front and rear diffs, trans, power steering pump), Air filter of course, and everything else mentioned by other members as well. the list goes on just to name a few

 

[JoeT4R]

Oh and headlights. Definitely headlights if you’re on your OEM bulbs. I used leds for about 2.5 years before I decided to go back to halogen bulbs. Bought a nice set of Hella bulbs for $13 on Amazon and they are phenomenal. I’m not even joking. You’ll thank yourself when you can actually see better at nighttime. Stick with halogens or do whatever retrofit thing that lots of folks do. But I love my Hella replacements and can’t beat the price

 

[Bad Luck]

Vacuum hoses, brake hoses (lining can deteriorate and you can’t visually see that), O2 sensors, heater valve, brake fluid flush (most people neglect/forget brake fluid), tps, fuel pump, maybe axle seals if they’ve never been done.

 

[diverscale]

the pcv valve grommet. the shit broke because of age and fell down in the valve cover.

Change it often.

 

[brillo_76]

Every 100k
Transmission filter and fluid exchange
Along with antifreeze exchanges

The alt and starter contacts wear out around 180k to 240k on average. Not a bad idea to address those if original.


200 to 300k range


Fuel pump and all fuel tank gaskets along with emission hoses checking canister checks filler tube checks


I guess sedimg units on the late models 01 and 02

All your control arm bushings front and rear should been changed or at least checked.

Te upper ball joint replaced or ar least verified its still in spec.

I think everything else has been mentioned. +1 on door wiring checks
Along with the pcv valves, vacuum hoses. Brake fluid exchange.





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[repo]

These trucks are phenomenally reliable with just regular maintenance. Just incase shit happens stuff can get fairly lenthy.
If never replaced original, Rubber hoses, tps, maf, heater valve, cts, starter contacts, alternator, brake booster, master cylinder, charcoal canister vsv valve. fuel injectors, filter and pump. cam and crank sensors filler neck valve to name a few. .

Yeah I suppose the definition of PM varies with your level of OCD, time and budget so I'm not quite sure how I'd define it. I suppose you can boil it down to:

• Things that may leave you stranded (P/N switch, starter contacts).
• Comfort, drivability and annoyances (shifter bushings).
• Things you can't ignore, F4 tape or ziptie because it will cause expensive damage to other stuff or becomes a safety issue (radiator, fan clutch).
• Things that are cheap insurance and you might not notice going bad (gas cap gasket, radiator cap, diff breathers, gas filler hose, coil pack boots, various sensors, alternator bushings).
• Things you can do as part of a bigger job (rear main seal and flex plate if you ever drop the transmission).
• Things that are easy to forget but might be a pain in the ass one day (lubing the spare wheel carrier).

Master cylinder and charcoal canister I probably wouldn't bother with unless I had too much free time on my hands.

 

[superhomunculus]

Every 100k


200 to 300k range


Fuel pump and all fuel tank gaskets along with emission hoses checking canister checks filler tube checks








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I was just thinking about the my fuel pump. I need to drop my fuel tank when I start working on my frame and debating if I should go ahead change the pump while have it out.

 

[repo]

Do charcoal canisters wear out? I thought it was mostly a problem from trying to over fill the tank. Can you still drive for a while with it clogged on a 99? I've never had to touch it other than it makes a ticking noise when its really cold sometimes.

There is an interesting Australian youtube chan called Prado Hospital who has some good suggestions and the trucks he inspects get some heavy usage down there. Mostly disels so engine stuff doesnt apply much but he gets J90s and petrol engines too. Fourby4Diesel - YouTube

 

[habanero]

I replaced the charcoal canister because the vsv's were bad and it was cheaper to replace the whole business on the 96

I also found out my fuel smell at the canister when wheeling sharp downhills was a stuck open tank vent valve. That one stymied me forever.

Anything rubber, including the stuff under the upper intake. Fuel, vaccuum, coolant, oil cooler, pcv, valve cover, etc, grommets and gaskets.
Any bushings. Body mount bushings. The shifter bushings. A-arm, rack and pinion, sway bar, etc.
The transmission and engine mounts.
Brake and clutch hoses. Speaking of clutch, the clutch pedal arm damage caused by the spring- replaced spring with hardware store non-invasive version.

The radiator and gas caps. Fan clutch, radiator, etc.
That's some of the things so far.

 

[repo]

Yeah I wondered about the steering rack (still original). It has slowly leaked for about 10 years so I just keep an eye on the fluid level.

Another one I thought of is that breather on top of the trans maybe?

Thanks for all the suggestions there is a good list of items to compile. Just a matter of ordering by priority now. Think I have bunch of ideas jotted in a text file somewhere too so will update first post when I get around to consolidating a list.

 

[96RedRunner]

AC system drier, $25.00 part can cause expensive problems if desiccant cartridge decides to give it up. Learned it the hard way.

 

[brillo_76]

I was just thinking about the my fuel pump. I need to drop my fuel tank when I start working on my frame and debating if I should go ahead change the pump while have it out.

Oem or denso on those. I fortunately haven't have one fail. [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] did. If you pull down the tank it's best to replace the fuel pump if it's original. If changed already and not denso /oem put a new one in. Lots of aftermarket fuel pumps are complete junk.

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[Romeo1]

Heater valve, change that damn thing. They all seem to corrode badly on the nipple on both sides.

Make sure the rear axle breather isn’t dirty. That one got me last week on vacation. It’s a rubber coin with a spring inside of a rotating/wobbler cap for the rear did breather.