Every now and then...it doesn't start
- Thread starter Griswald
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
KidVermicious
New member
flagbasher
New member
After it's been running for a while, right?
If it does this while hot, read here...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...ck-burgundy-1987-22re-auto-6.html#post2067609
Basically, if you've got an auto trans, you'll have to add a starter relay. If you've got an 86 or earlier manual trans, you'll have to add a starter relay. If you've got a sometime-in-the-mid-86-model-year-and-beyond manual trans, you'll have to rewire your existing starter relay.
The two threads from KidVermicious and RAD4Runner walked me through what I needed to know.
The 2nd time I had the "click no start" issue, tapping on the starter solenoid helped it start. I was convinced it was the starter, then I read the threads I referenced above.
If it does this while hot, read here...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...ck-burgundy-1987-22re-auto-6.html#post2067609
Basically, if you've got an auto trans, you'll have to add a starter relay. If you've got an 86 or earlier manual trans, you'll have to add a starter relay. If you've got a sometime-in-the-mid-86-model-year-and-beyond manual trans, you'll have to rewire your existing starter relay.
The two threads from KidVermicious and RAD4Runner walked me through what I needed to know.
The 2nd time I had the "click no start" issue, tapping on the starter solenoid helped it start. I was convinced it was the starter, then I read the threads I referenced above.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Lol! I too had to whack the starter to get it to turn over for quite a long time! Wouldn't always do it, and was always random, sometimes cold, sometimes hot, sometimes it would click, click, click, click, START, Dammit! Missed it, click, click, click, ARRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!
Using a long breaker bar against the starter would normally get it to crank over, but not always. Recently, I found a bad ground going to the engine (which was causing me to fail smog, as the o2 sensor wasn't getting a clean return to negative), and since then, I have NOT had it give me an issue with starting!
If you wanna see if its ground issues, use a jumper cable and hook just the neg side from the battery to a ground near the starter when it acts up the next time, see if that gets it to start. If it does, run a 4 or 8 gauge wire from the battery directly to the block near the starter, that should do it.
If it does NOT make a difference, and tapping on it gets it to start, I'd say its dfeinitely the solenoid on the starter. Either bypass with external solenoid like the above link shows, or buy a new starter.
Since mine is working now, I haven't had the need to pull the starter and check the solenoid's internals, I'm sure its just some sort of washer or plunger that's all corroded at the tip, a bit of sanding down and light coat of electric grease should make it new again, but I have no idea whether you're able to open it up without damaging the unit.
Using a long breaker bar against the starter would normally get it to crank over, but not always. Recently, I found a bad ground going to the engine (which was causing me to fail smog, as the o2 sensor wasn't getting a clean return to negative), and since then, I have NOT had it give me an issue with starting!
If you wanna see if its ground issues, use a jumper cable and hook just the neg side from the battery to a ground near the starter when it acts up the next time, see if that gets it to start. If it does, run a 4 or 8 gauge wire from the battery directly to the block near the starter, that should do it.
If it does NOT make a difference, and tapping on it gets it to start, I'd say its dfeinitely the solenoid on the starter. Either bypass with external solenoid like the above link shows, or buy a new starter.
Since mine is working now, I haven't had the need to pull the starter and check the solenoid's internals, I'm sure its just some sort of washer or plunger that's all corroded at the tip, a bit of sanding down and light coat of electric grease should make it new again, but I have no idea whether you're able to open it up without damaging the unit.
Griswald
New member
Well, it's a Manual Trans 5-speed, but Yes, I've never had it NOT start when the engine is cold. It's always when I am running errands and stop for 5-20 minutes and then when i get back in it kinda clicks...then eventually it starts. Lemme read through these posts...
flagbasher
New member
It's not really bypassing the solenoid. It's just operating the initial solenoid pop directly from the battery (via relay) instead of through the ignition switch and other various switches (depending on auto/manual).
Means the ignition switch and other switches can be old and corroded because they only need to carry enough current to pop the relay. Popping the relay requires A LOT less current than popping the solenoid.
flagbasher
New member
Yeah, then read RAD4Runner's build thread on Yotatech. Lots of info and diagrams there. More applicable to your specific case since you'll have a relay and a manual trans.
RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner dlx Build-up - Page 3 - YotaTech Forums
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Re Tapping Whacking the starter solenoid works because
1) It helps actuate the starter solenoid plunger that is not getting enough power from flawed wiring of starter solenoid on Mid 86-88 22RE's,
2) It helps actuate the starter solenoid plunger that is not getting enough power from poor wiring (LOONG) on Early-86 and earlier 22REs without starter solenoid. (Fixed by adding starter relay like KidV's solution, or Hotshot relay).
3) It helps actuate the starter solenoid plunger that is not getting enough power from LOONG wiring on auto trans 22RE where neutral safety switch contacts may be badly pitted/corroded. (Also fixed with KidV's solution, or Hotshot relay).
4) It helps solenoid plunger move a RCH (JUUUUST a tiny bit more- LOL!) to make a good connection when you have badly worn solenoid contacts.
Hi Griswald,
Glad you brought this up to the forum before wildly guessing and replacing parts, which may not be defective after all. Leave that method to incompetent/shady shops who want your money for their wrong guesses.
It could either be:
1) Wiring flaw on 22R-E's (yours has a starter relay), OR
2) Bad starter solenoid contacts.
But let's not jump to conclusion...
What engine do you have?
Please let us know exactly what clicks:
The starter relay only? (Sorry, I do not know where it is located on an 89.)
The starter solenoid as well?
Without seeing schematic for your 89 4Runner, I could not be absolutely sure that it has same wiring flaw as the Mid-86 to 88 22RE's.
22R-E's Earlier than mid-86 do not have a starter relay so KidV's solution would apply.
However, you can:
1) Post schematic of your starting system, and/or
2) try this to directly energize the starter solenoid from the battery while trying to crank, and let us know if it consistently cranks.
Then, well go from there. I'm sure it's a simple problem, easily fixed with a clean robust solution
It's a Toyota, we'll get it running well, no matter what
1) It helps actuate the starter solenoid plunger that is not getting enough power from flawed wiring of starter solenoid on Mid 86-88 22RE's,
2) It helps actuate the starter solenoid plunger that is not getting enough power from poor wiring (LOONG) on Early-86 and earlier 22REs without starter solenoid. (Fixed by adding starter relay like KidV's solution, or Hotshot relay).
3) It helps actuate the starter solenoid plunger that is not getting enough power from LOONG wiring on auto trans 22RE where neutral safety switch contacts may be badly pitted/corroded. (Also fixed with KidV's solution, or Hotshot relay).
4) It helps solenoid plunger move a RCH (JUUUUST a tiny bit more- LOL!) to make a good connection when you have badly worn solenoid contacts.
Hi Griswald,
Glad you brought this up to the forum before wildly guessing and replacing parts, which may not be defective after all. Leave that method to incompetent/shady shops who want your money for their wrong guesses.
It could either be:
1) Wiring flaw on 22R-E's (yours has a starter relay), OR
2) Bad starter solenoid contacts.
But let's not jump to conclusion...
What engine do you have?
Please let us know exactly what clicks:
The starter relay only? (Sorry, I do not know where it is located on an 89.)
The starter solenoid as well?
Without seeing schematic for your 89 4Runner, I could not be absolutely sure that it has same wiring flaw as the Mid-86 to 88 22RE's.
22R-E's Earlier than mid-86 do not have a starter relay so KidV's solution would apply.
However, you can:
1) Post schematic of your starting system, and/or
2) try this to directly energize the starter solenoid from the battery while trying to crank, and let us know if it consistently cranks.
Then, well go from there. I'm sure it's a simple problem, easily fixed with a clean robust solution
It's a Toyota, we'll get it running well, no matter what
Last edited:
flagbasher
New member
Griswald
New member
Hey Kid, thanks for this info. I know it's been quite awhile, but I just got a new engine in my 89 runner. I just ordered the hot shot kit 30202.
This fix makes perfect sense. Every now and then it wouldn't start (usually after a quick trip)...jumping it would always do the trick...so when it acts up it just isn't giving enough juice to the starter.
Hopefully I should get it in this week and report back - seems pretty simple.
THANKS!
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Hi Griswald,
I just came across the schematic for a 1989 4runner, 22RE, manual. This confirms that the starter relay on your model-year-trim was also WIRED WRONG AT THE FACTORY. I can be easily rewired at minimal cost, but since you already ordered the Hotshot, that would work as well.
