Everyone happy with their body lift?

bassmacka

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I've seen some posts about people removing the body lift. Was wondering if people are happy with theirs. Did it solve all the rubbing issues? Any other drawbacks?

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I'm very happy with my 1" body lift. Doesn't look to awkward (only at the hitch) bumpers stretched over it just fine, install wasn't too difficult (other than the jack wagon seller on here who put together a kit full of wrong hardware and wouldn't stand behind his product), it give a little extra clearance for full stuff (trimming and fitting still required for anyone serious about full cycling suspension) and allows for easier access for working on front suspension top hats, installing headers, cleaning around the frame in the rear. I'd do it again just with a 4crawler or toytec kit next time.
 
My brother removed his body lift on his FJ... to install a larger 1.5" kit like mine.

Like mentioned gives you more room to access things between the body and frame, and allows you to weld on your sliders higher up. You will still need to trim so it doesn't solve all rubbing issues but you will trim less. Depending on how far your tires stick out and how much droop you have, if your tires rub the top of the wheel well you will either need bump stop spacers (limits travel) or a BL (full travel).

Bolt on sliders and aftermarket bumpers might have a little gap depending on how large of BL you get, but I am happy with mine.

Some people wrestle with the steering spacer and swear it's install is the worst thing ever. I let my brother try it for 15 minutes until I came over and did it in 1 minute.
 
I'm happy with my 1" Toytec BS lift. Raised it up to add some extra clearance for tires, etc. This lift was just enough not to compromise anything in my case such as splash guards, bumper skin alignment, etc. Only thing I had to do was trim my fan shroud a little bit at the bottom to clear the fan. Bonus as mentioned by the others is the added clearance to access other suspension components (front strut top nuts, rear shock nut) and frame components.
 
Some days I want to remove my 2in bl but the truck has been built around the bl and would be a complete nightmare to refab everything.


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I DIY’d a 1/2” body lift out of UHMW plastic. Longer bolts needed only in the two rear mounts. Lessened the tire rub in a few spots. It was a fun project to do on my T4R and inexpensive. I have no plans to go larger and I’m sure the BL will be there till end of days.
 
Wouldn’t have it any other way.. i actually wonder how a lot of guys don’t run a body lift.. a moderate body lift done right only has advantages for me..


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Don't be lazy, skip the body lift and trim. I don't understand why people are so afraid to trim. They act like they will return it to stock one day and nobody does that even if they think they will.

Body lifts put a lot of weight up higher and in rock crawling the goal is to get weight lower while still having clearance. Body lifts are for mall crawlers and show trucks.
 
Don't be lazy, skip the body lift and trim. I don't understand why people are so afraid to trim. They act like they will return it to stock one day and nobody does that even if they think they will.

Body lifts put a lot of weight up higher and in rock crawling the goal is to get weight lower while still having clearance. Body lifts are for mall crawlers and show trucks.

I think raising the center of gravity 3/4" is worth 1.5" more bump travel and sliders and bumpers 1.5" higher.

Not every offroader cares about rock crawling.
 
I think raising the center of gravity 3/4" is worth 1.5" more bump travel and sliders and bumpers 1.5" higher.

Not every offroader cares about rock crawling.

I said rock crawling but it should be common sense that in every form of offroading, keeping the weight low is the best for performance.

Both my bumpers low points are against the frame so a BL would help zero. I'd rather run a 2" smaller tire than a 1" BL, but I know most people just want that bling factor of a larger tire.

I trimmed and fit 37's. A little over 12" travel front and rear. Zero body lift. I'm going for function over form though.
 
I said rock crawling but it should be common sense that in every form of offroading, keeping the weight low is the best for performance.

Both my bumpers low points are against the frame so a BL would help zero. I'd rather run a 2" smaller tire than a 1" BL, but I know most people just want that bling factor of a larger tire.

I trimmed and fit 37's. A little over 12" travel front and rear. Zero body lift. I'm going for function over form though.

as it should be common sense that not all offroaders and rock crawlers are competing in offroad competition and need the advantage of ever-so-slightly lowering the center of gravity.

as for "trimmed and fit 37's" sure, we'll just breeze right over the fact that you're on a dana 60 rear axle and RCLT up front. lol. It sure would be nice to bust out the good-ole grinder and after a few cuts here, and a few bangs there go from stock suspension to RCLT lol.
 
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as it should be common sense that not all offroaders and rock crawlers are competing in offroad competition and need the advantage of ever-so-slightly lowering the center of gravity.

as for "trimmed and fit 37's" sure, we'll just breeze right over the fact that you're on a dana 60 rear axle and RCLT up front. lol. It sure would be nice to bust out the good-ole grinder and after a few cuts here, and a few bangs there go from stock suspension to RCLT lol.

Putting the entire weight of the body up 1.5" or even 1" isn't ever so slight. That's a huge change in my opinion. I already know I'll be the lone opinion on this one because Toyotas have terrible clearance issues when you start moving up the tire size and people generally don't like chopping on the body. But if it had nothing to do with clearance for a tire, and only the fact to have more lift for looks than a body lift is a bad idea.

As much as I wish it did, a Dana 60 doesn't help you fit larger tires in the rear. And rclt only helps you clear the body mount, not the fender. I had to cut and modify the shit out of my fenders to clear just some of the up travel on rclt. I'm running 4.5" of backspacing so the extra width I added isn't all that much. But if it was stock up travel, I could've cut way less to fit a 35.
 
Putting the entire weight of the body up 1.5" or even 1" isn't ever so slight. That's a huge change in my opinion. I already know I'll be the lone opinion on this one because Toyotas have terrible clearance issues when you start moving up the tire size and people generally don't like chopping on the body. But if it had nothing to do with clearance for a tire, and only the fact to have more lift for looks than a body lift is a bad idea.

As much as I wish it did, a Dana 60 doesn't help you fit larger tires in the rear. And rclt only helps you clear the body mount, not the fender. I had to cut and modify the shit out of my fenders to clear just some of the up travel on rclt. I'm running 4.5" of backspacing so the extra width I added isn't all that much. But if it was stock up travel, I could've cut way less to fit a 35.

I'd have to disagree on the CG comment.. your entire driveline isn't shifting, only the body is. If we want to split hairs, you lifted your ENTIRE CG more by going to a 37 over a 35 inch tire vs somebody who installed a 1" body lift and kept the 35. How important was it to run 37's? What do you use your rig for?
 
I'd have to disagree on the CG comment.. your entire driveline isn't shifting, only the body is. If we want to split hairs, you lifted your ENTIRE CG more by going to a 37 over a 35 inch tire vs somebody who installed a 1" body lift and kept the 35. How important was it to run 37's? What do you use your rig for?

I never said entire driveline, I said the body. And with all the electronics, seats and airbags, that's quite a bit of weight. Of course a lot of you new school Toyota people put a bunch of crap on their roof like rtt's, rotopaks, spare tires etc. Which I would never do any of that either so maybe you're just used to it.

You're right, the tire does lift your cg even more. I decided on my tire size before I did any lift. I came from 42's on my last rig but wanted something a little better on the street and a better ride. 40's are too big for the rear without doing a rear stretch or cutting into the rear doors. 37's are as big as you can go and they ride better than 40's so that's where I landed.

Going up in tire size lifts the vehicle weight regardless but then adding a BL on top of that makes it even worse with no additional performance gain, when you could just trim instead and keep the weight low. If my 37 wouldn't have fit, I would've lowered the bump to reduce up travel long before I went to a BL. The limited up travel would be less of a performance loss offroad than the BL. And for the street, the lower bump likely wouldn't even be noticed, where as a BL is making your body roll way worse in turns.

Hey OP, go read the forums at race dezert and pirate4x4. Nobody over there would recommend a body lift. This is all just opinion though, everyone has one, but mine is that a BL is the worst modification you can do to a vehicle. Good luck on your decision OP.
 
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