Exhaust Manifold leak.

E

Explict

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So my 4Runner had developed a leak in the driver side manifold. I have been researching and researching. I still have not decided if I want to cheese out and do only the exhaust manifold on the driver side with a stock on (from toyota not really cheap actually) or go after market (Usually my first choice) and do both sides.

What I am asking is, does anyone here have experience changing the exhaust manifolds out with aftermarket headers? Are there fitment issues? Do I have to change the ECU Tune? Are they loud? (I want it to be louder but not crazy loud, I have a 525rwhp mMustang that satisfies my loud fix.)

Thanks!
 
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Yes, I have read that entire thread. However, it only really talks about warranty and dealership installs. I am asking about doing it myself.

Mostly, if there is a preferred aftermarket brand at all because there are surprisingly a lot of aftermarket headers for the 4th gen 4r and I am worried about fitment issues. i.e on my Mustang I had to heat up and beat in the driver side header because of the steering shaft.
 
What other aftermarket offerings are there besides the Doug Thorley? Didn't realize there were a "lot" of options, and this is something I'll be tackling on my V8 next year.
 
This is probably a really stupid question but do the Doug Throley's come with both sides for $782 or is that for one side?
 
cseaman said:
What other aftermarket offerings are there besides the Doug Thorley? Didn't realize there were a "lot" of options, and this is something I'll be tackling on my V8 next year.
Click to expand...

There's a few options for OEM replacements, but AFAIK they have the same issues with cracking as the originals. The thorley headers are the only aftermarket performance/improved design that I'm aware of.
 
Ive come across JBA, Gibson, Doug Thorley, Pace Setter and ofcourse OEM brands.
Pretty sure I will go with the Doug Thorley and weld it myself.

Has anyone done the welding on this before? I emailed Doug Thorley about it but maybe non professional opinion would be nice. (I'm a welder by trade and have a TIG machine)
Kinda wondering if I should be tacking in place or if I can fit it all together outside the truck.
 
I installed a set of the Doug Thorleys shortly after I picked up my '07 (back in April), and I can tell you I'm quite happy with them. A touch louder than stock when you put your foot into it, but nowhere remotely close to obnoxious. I didn't install them myself, but no issues reported by my mechanic aside from saying he had to find someone with small hands to thread on one nut that was hard to get to. ;) No fitment issues, no ECU changes - they perform just like the stock part, but better.

Hope that helps!
 
Explict said:
Ive come across JBA, Gibson, Doug Thorley, Pace Setter and ofcourse OEM brands.
Pretty sure I will go with the Doug Thorley and weld it myself.

Has anyone done the welding on this before? I emailed Doug Thorley about it but maybe non professional opinion would be nice. (I'm a welder by trade and have a TIG machine)
Kinda wondering if I should be tacking in place or if I can fit it all together outside the truck.
Click to expand...
Just so you know for the JBA, Gibson and pave setters you'll have to modify the Fitment because they are built for the Tundras that share our motor. The tundras have more room for the manifold to fit between the frame rails. The DT headers are the only ones that directly fit without modification

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Explict said:
Ive come across JBA, Gibson, Doug Thorley, Pace Setter and ofcourse OEM brands.
Pretty sure I will go with the Doug Thorley and weld it myself.

Has anyone done the welding on this before? I emailed Doug Thorley about it but maybe non professional opinion would be nice. (I'm a welder by trade and have a TIG machine)
Kinda wondering if I should be tacking in place or if I can fit it all together outside the truck.
Click to expand...

You can repair the crack and prevent it from coming back if you have a TIG welder handy. It still requires removal of the manifolds though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LO1XgdT4J_U

This video does a decent job of showing where the tick normally comes from and how to weld the inside of the tube to repair the issue. The basic issues seems to be that the metal is slightly thinner at the edge of where it was "belled" out to mate to the cylinderhead. I'm guessing over time, heat cycling, ect. there's a tendency for the metal to be eroded by exhaust gases at that weak portion and create a "tick."

Welding the inside edge of the tubes where they are thinnest should resolve the issue if it comes up, you could also go with aftermarket headers; the only issues is whether or not they are legal in your area.
 
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