Exhaust Sensors ....

[SkidPalace]

If you're near Worcester MA, you can try Lou's custom exhaust.
I had the Waltham shop set me up with a SS cat back custom system for a reasonable amount of dough. I had the same condition rotting O2 and heat shield flanges. I will suggest their "long life" muffler, which they claim is like stock sounding. Don't believe them. It has a much throatier sound without the droning of their SS409 muffler. It's basically the same muffler packed with glass. I can vouch for the quality. I had them remove the SS409 after almost two years and it was still shiny silver in areas.
Don't get me wrong, nobody will confuse you for a dual-exhaust V8, but it sounds nice for the same or less than you would pay at a plain 'ol muffler shop. They can certainly source you a cat as well.

 

[TheDurk]

Update: I replaced both sensors now with bosch ones and cleared the codes. About a day later the CEL came back and went away for about another day. Now its on for good. I havent had a chance to check the codes. But im thinking its either a bad cat or a small leak. I noticed the flange for the O2 sensor was missing alot of metal due to rust. The 2 nuts for that sensor were completely gone, only rust was holding the sensor in place the whole time !

Anyone have a cheap source for the OEM cat ? or any aftermarket suggestions for an entire exhaust ?

I just wonder if the Denso sensors might have solved your problem and your cats are fine. The Cali rigs are famous for being picky about their sensors. I would hate to think you might throw out a perfectly good factory cats because you tried to use cheapo sensors. Then you tack on cheapo aftermarket cats and you may NEVER get that light off and up having to sell the rig in some non-inspection state or putting in an (illegal) simulator. I can't say for sure this is the case, but hold on to those cats until you are sure they ARE the problem. It sure would be nice to know the new codes. (Probably p0420 solo, if not, you'll know it was the wrong sensor in front.)

 

[nyc4runnin]

I just wonder if the Denso sensors might have solved your problem and your cats are fine. The Cali rigs are famous for being picky about their sensors. I would hate to think you might throw out a perfectly good factory cats because you tried to use cheapo sensors. Then you tack on cheapo aftermarket cats and you may NEVER get that light off and up having to sell the rig in some non-inspection state or putting in an (illegal) simulator. I can't say for sure this is the case, but hold on to those cats until you are sure they ARE the problem. It sure would be nice to know the new codes. (Probably p0420 solo, if not, you'll know it was the wrong sensor in front.)

The 2 codes that I get now are P0420 and P0120 .....

P0120 says its the TPS ... I guess I can replace that too...
P0420 says one of the cats ? (I dunno which one...??) OR exhaust leak but I looked all over and couldnt find a leak, and it doesnt sound like there is one..

 

[nyc4runnin]

Update: installed O2 simulator and passed NYS emissions !!

had to drive around for 50-60 miles before i could get it inspected, cause i had to pull the battery.

CEL is off for good !!!

btw i found the leak, the 2nd cat is dead, big hole on the top facing the car, blew away all the undercoat there. I think i saw an Eastern cat somewhere online for $200 direct bolt on.

I might not even change it if I can get away with it haha. Might just sell the car in a year or 2 ...

 

[Brian32]

ok im alittle confused.. my check engine light came on got it scanned and it came up P1135.. what is the part number to Partznet?

 

[nyc4runnin]

ok im alittle confused.. my check engine light came on got it scanned and it came up P1135.. what is the part number to Partznet?

if you have a cali spec 4runner

89467-35011 is the OEM dealer part - Front A/F Sensor

 

[TheDurk]

if you have a cali spec 4runner

89467-35011 is the OEM dealer part - Front A/F Sensor

In 2002 there was no more Cali. spec.; all 3.4 V6 had the two-cat system with the front A/F sensor. I am not sure if the sticker says 'Federal' or 'Federal and California'. The more important part number (if you like to save money) is the Denso part number 234-9002. This is identical to the part from the dealer and can be had more cheaply on Amazon, URD, and many others. You will probably have to stop by the dealer to pick up two new nuts to put it in. Most of us have found ours to be pretty rusted up by the time the sensor fails. That Toyota part No. is 90179-08059.

 

[Brian32]

In 2002 there was no more Cali. spec.; all 3.4 V6 had the two-cat system with the front A/F sensor. I am not sure if the sticker says 'Federal' or 'Federal and California'. The more important part number (if you like to save money) is the Denso part number 234-9002. This is identical to the part from the dealer and can be had more cheaply on Amazon, URD, and many others. You will probably have to stop by the dealer to pick up two new nuts to put it in. Most of us have found ours to be pretty rusted up by the time the sensor fails. That Toyota part No. is 90179-08059.

thanks for the info.. mine is a non cali... i found one on partznet for 157.00 so i think im gonna go with that.. from what i have the toyota part num is 8946735011..

 

[TheDurk]

thanks for the info.. mine is a non cali... i found one on partznet for 157.00 so i think im gonna go with that.. from what i have the toyota part num is 8946735011..

I can't help you there as I have a manual (sadly, there were no more of those in 2002) that takes a Denso 234-9003 and I use VIN's to get Toyota parts numbers. Put your VIN into toyodiy.com if you want a second source. I get the Denso numbers from URD Linky

Check this out for $101.70 on Amazon: Linky

 

[Brian32]

I can't help you there as I have a manual (sadly, there were no more of those in 2002) that takes a Denso 234-9003 and I use VIN's to get Toyota parts numbers. Put your VIN into toyodiy.com if you want a second source. I get the Denso numbers from URD Linky

Check this out for $101.70 on Amazon: Linky

wow!! thanks alot man i just ordered that.. saved me some $$$ again thanks for the help!!

 

[TheDurk]

wow!! thanks alot man i just ordered that.. saved me some $$$ again thanks for the help!!

Glad to help. Hope it works out.

 

[alert]

Stick to Denso, if you do your research you will see much unhappiness deriving from the wrong sensors. These puppies are very sensitive. A good source:

Link to URD

At least use their list to get the RIGHT Denso part number for your rig. You can then find that Denso sensor elsewhere for a few $ less, example Amazon. However, Amazon's application info is sketchy, so check URD first. Please post the DTC number and we can help you figure out which one is bad. For example, p0420 is usually rear, if it's not a bad cat (really big $$$$). P1135 is your front. Also tell us if you have a one-cat (49-state) or two-cat (Cali.) set-up. Lot's of Cali. '99 were sold in the East, including mine. The sensors are VERY different in front.

I had a very bad experience with URD and I would not recommend them to anyone reading this forum.

 

[nyc4runnin]

I had a very bad experience with URD and I would not recommend them to anyone reading this forum.

i recommend doin your homework, doin the research to see what part you need, and then shopping around for the lowest price.

for these sensors, i found that amazon.com at the time had the lowest price...

 

[SkidPalace]

I had a very bad experience with URD and I would not recommend them to anyone reading this forum.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA :lmao:
You're right. That's it. Nobody partake of the services that Gadget pioneered and the resources URD provide. They are a bunch of bums. :withstupid:
Back on topic, I agree that Amazon has the best pricing on Denso sensors. I got both my A/F and O2 sensors there. I cross referenced the part numbers from the URD site and directly on the the Denso site, then bought from Amazon.

 

[Philter]

I didn't realize emission places could tell when a CEL was cleared?

 

[TheDurk]

I didn't realize emission places could tell when a CEL was cleared?

They can't. But they can tell if the ECU has run all the tests it needs to do since it was last cleared. So if they get a return " Test Not Ready" when they plug in, they will ding you. The light will only come on when you fail, and in most cases after two-trips. It will also take two trips to return " Test Ready". The Cat efficiency test is one of the most involved, as a lot of driving events have to occur to qualify as a trip.

Any decent scanner will also tell you if any tests are " Not Ready" .

 

[nyc4runnin]

I didn't realize emission places could tell when a CEL was cleared?

ya, i think it basically checks for mileage between when it was last cleared of CELs or if the battery was unplugged ...

last time, they made me drive at least 50 miles before i could go back for a retest. (this is in ny state)