Failing throttle position sensor or normal behavior?

Skulking

New member
Since I bought my 4runner over a year ago I have had looseness in the gas pedal. There is a part at what should be the beginning of the pedal travel where the pedal just flops around. I assumed it was either the return spring being old, or the throttle cable having a little slack in it. Yesterday I used Torque to check the throttle position during normal driving, and noticed that no matter how floored I had the gas pedal I wasn't seeing the throttle position get past 73.3%. I tightened the throttle cable up some, and nothing changed. This morning I manually actuated the throttle on the engine and holding it fully open I'm still only showing 73.3% for the throttle position. I don't notice any symptoms of a failing throttle position sensor, and I don't have a CEL or any codes. Is this a sign of a throttle position sensor beginning to fail, or is this normal behavior?

Doing research on this subject, it looks like since I have a 2000 4runner (5VZ-FE) the throttle position sensor is easily replaceable unlike on the 01-02 models. I haven't been able to find anything on checking resistance for the sensor to verify function. I appreciate any insight people have on whether this is normal behavior, or any additional things to check before replacing the sensor.
 
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Since I bought my 4runner over a year ago I have had looseness in the gas pedal. There is a part at what should be the beginning of the pedal travel where the pedal just flops around. I assumed it was either the return spring being old, or the throttle cable having a little slack in it. Yesterday I used Torque to check the throttle position during normal driving, and noticed that no matter how floored I had the gas pedal I wasn't seeing the throttle position get past 73.3%. I tightened the throttle cable up some, and nothing changed. This morning I manually actuated the throttle on the engine and holding it fully open I'm still only showing 73.3% for the throttle position. I don't notice any symptoms of a failing throttle position sensor, and I don't have a CEL or any codes. Is this a sign of a throttle position sensor beginning to fail, or is this normal behavior?

Doing research on this subject, it looks like since I have a 2000 4runner (5VZ-FE) the throttle position sensor is easily replaceable unlike on the 01-02 models. I haven't been able to find anything on checking resistance for the sensor to verify function. I appreciate any insight people have on whether this is normal behavior, or any additional things to check before replacing the sensor.
Did a full throttle pull today just for you. At 30 mph tps read 72.8% and increases as speed increased. At 75 mph it read 76.2%. I'd say your sensor is accurate and in working condition. If it starts to fail you'll very likely get a dtc for throttle position performance or correlation.
 
You'll get a CEL, or a pending code if you're TPS is failing.

First symptom I had recently was the torque converter randomly locking and unlocking. Initially, no stored codes or CEL. After a couple more drives, I had a stored TPS code, but no CEL.

Criteria for the CEL on many codes requires multiple occurrence of the out of range condition.
 
I did a key on, engine off, floored the gas pedal and I also got 74 of throttle position.
Got a soft code for tps a while back while rough idling for 2 seconds. Cleared the P0120 and both rough idle and tps code never came back.
 
It seems weird that the sensor doesn't go all the way to 100%, but I guess that is just how it was designed to work. Thank you all for your help.
 
It seems weird that the sensor doesn't go all the way to 100%, but I guess that is just how it was designed to work. Thank you all for your help.


Exactly. It’s around 10% at idle and around 75% at WOT.

For the record some jeeps are the same way. If you get a code for the TPS change it. Buy OEM or get one out of a junk yard.


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When my failed on my 98 (Tetanus 1) it threw a CEL code. Replaced it with new OEM 2 or 3 years ago and haven't had an issue since..:-)
 
It seems weird that the sensor doesn't go all the way to 100%, but I guess that is just how it was designed to work. Thank you all for your help.
Most/all vehicles I have messed with are similar. What matters is that it has continuous and reliable readings, not the absolute min and max value.

-Charlie
 
Most/all vehicles I have messed with are similar. What matters is that it has continuous and reliable readings, not the absolute min and max value.

-Charlie

That makes sense. I guess that the ECU is probably programmed to see the voltage at 73ish percent as full throttle, and around 10 percent as idle/ closed throttle, and reacts accordingly, but when I'm looking at it with an OBD reader, all I'm actually capturing is the voltage as a percent of full scale for the sensor rather than as a percentage as the ECU reads it.
 
Most encoders and pots, TPS's are set up to not operate at max or min limits.
It creates a buffer zone for catching the signal consistently a plus or minus thing, shows up using a scope.
ECU's, PLC's can be setup to operate with a 0-100% range, looks as Toyota went with standard 10-25 wiggle room.
TPS's I've heard develop a dead spot a hesitation, shortly a code. I have the beginning dead spot, have for a while, waiting.
Been said dead spot could be related to where gas pedal is held at for average operating speeds, miles on TPS.
 
Exactly. It’s around 10% at idle and around 75% at WOT.

For the record some jeeps are the same way. If you get a code for the TPS change it. Buy OEM or get one out of a junk yard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, I’ve been idling at 900 in drive and 1400 in park and nuetural. TPS reads 14% at idle. Throttle body might be getting stuck. If I try to force it the other way it idles down and tps% goes down
 
Thank you, I’ve been idling at 900 in drive and 1400 in park and nuetural. TPS reads 14% at idle. Throttle body might be getting stuck. If I try to force it the other way it idles down and tps% goes down
Is that with your engine cold or at operating temperature?
 
Thank you, I’ve been idling at 900 in drive and 1400 in park and nuetural. TPS reads 14% at idle. Throttle body might be getting stuck. If I try to force it the other way it idles down and tps% goes down

I'd consider removing the idle air control valve (the part below the throttle body) and clean using an appropriate aerosol, like throttle body cleaner. It's a bit of a pain in the ass, as you have to disconnect the two tiny coolant lines.

The valve has a 'shutter' that opens or closes based on need. If there is any debris present it will likely hang up in the open position, leaving you with a high idle.

I've always removed the throttle body to do this; I'm not even sure you can get to the fasteners if you don't. Being atop the engine, you will only lose a bit of coolant.

Here's a vid from Tim the Toolman. It's 52 min long, and very thorough. Cleaning the IAC starts at about 35 minutes in.

IAC testing and cleaning

Good luck!
 
Been having similar symptoms as the OP and even after cleaning and checking the IAC valve and cleaning the throttle body I am seeing the same thing. Did this do the trick for you or did you find it was something else?
 
The looseness in the pedal is the rubber bushing rotting and falling off. You'll need a new cable.

Alternatively, if you want a little more life out of your cable or are looking for a quick fix, you can use a piece of rubber hose and some zip ties to replicate the bushing :)

I found this trick on this forum a while ago, but cannot find the thread. The best I can find is this YouTube video of someone doing the exact same thing I did, but they used a 93 4runner. Mine is a 99 and worked just fine: Link!
 

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