Familymopar's Build and Adventure thread
- Thread starter familymopar
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familymopar
New member
No problem. I'm usually being helped, so I'm happy to be able to help someone else. Show me yours when you do it. Especially if you improve it! Good luck!
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white_trail
Junior Member
Do you have your arb fridge wired directly to battery?
familymopar
New member
Yes I do. I just did it last week. I used the ARB wire kit. I swapped the stock Panasonic for an Odyssey group 31 and ran the 8 gauge wire through the truck and flush mounted the socket in the wheel well. Works great!
HerT4R
New member
welcome!
i am always excited to see more HTX members!
I will also be running the ARB kit to the rear of my vehicle (i already modified the stock outlet though to accept the 8 ga outs and got a terminal block to mount the battery voltage readout). I didnt go with the ARB fridge so the plug will go into a stock outlet. I just wanted to beef up the wires before running it after reading your thread haha.
Any tips or tricks to doing this? Did you go through the passenger side firewall and then through the doorsills? How did you get into the rear wheelwell from the doorsills?
I am going to try to do this shortly, so i am interested to get any insider info if possible.
Thanks!
Honk if you see me! :lookout:
i am always excited to see more HTX members!
I will also be running the ARB kit to the rear of my vehicle (i already modified the stock outlet though to accept the 8 ga outs and got a terminal block to mount the battery voltage readout). I didnt go with the ARB fridge so the plug will go into a stock outlet. I just wanted to beef up the wires before running it after reading your thread haha.
Any tips or tricks to doing this? Did you go through the passenger side firewall and then through the doorsills? How did you get into the rear wheelwell from the doorsills?
I am going to try to do this shortly, so i am interested to get any insider info if possible.
Thanks!
Honk if you see me! :lookout:
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familymopar
New member
Thank you! I have been lurking around here for a year or so but just finally decided to start this thread. And it is great to see so many people in the HTX area. Where about are you located? I am in Cypress around 290 @ Fry, but my office is in the Heights and I generally work downtown. The 290 commute gives me a good while to get familiar with the 4runner!
As far as the wiring: First, I am not sure why you would use the ARB wire kit. The kit is basically two pieces (1) a 20' or so bit of 8 gauge wire and (2) the outlet. If you don't need the outlet, I would just get a bit of 8 gauge from home depot for a couple bucks. Also, if you're running down the passenger side this may be a little different, but only at the firewall I would assume. I ran mine down the driver side. That being said, it took me hours and much frustration to get it done. Having done it I think I could do it again in 20 minutes or so. So hopefully the following will help.
First pull off the door sill trim. I was nervous to do this as I had yanked on them and they did not budge. After some encouragement from [MENTION=91899]Jhalko[/MENTION] and [MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] I went back out there and just pulled harder. It took a little more force than I expected and I thought I was going to break a tab or something, but I didn't. It's a tough piece. Just pull it. I did not use any tools or anything, just my fingers.
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified114_zpsiwqya3td.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified114_zpsiwqya3td.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified114_zpsiwqya3td.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified115_zps7txsked9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified115_zps7txsked9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified115_zps7txsked9.jpg"/></a>
After you remove the door trim you can pop the kick panel off
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified112_zpsdla2zwy8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified112_zpsdla2zwy8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified112_zpsdla2zwy8.jpg"/></a>
So I ran the wires from the battery, through the firewall grommet, behind the kick panel (be careful there are some electronics back there), and in to the channel below the door plates. The wires running down that channel run through plastic retaining clips, I opened those clips up and stuck my wires in there too.
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified116_zpsbsaex3du.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified116_zpsbsaex3du.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified116_zpsbsaex3du.jpg"/></a>
Easy so far. My first stumbling block was when I got to the B pillar. The channel with the factory wires goes under the B pillar. I could not get my wires to feed through there. It's only maybe 8" to the other side, but try as I might, I could not get it through there. And I tried for a long, long time. So I ran the wires outside the channel and tucked them under the B pillar trim and right back in to the channel on the other side. No problem. I tucked them where my finger is pointing.
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified110_zpscz8wrpfg.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified110_zpscz8wrpfg.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified110_zpscz8wrpfg.jpg"/></a>
Then just through the channel under the back seat sill trim like the front seat. Then you get to the wheel well. I struggled with this for a LONG time. I tried a coat hanger, a fish tape, cussing, anger, everything I could think of to get it fed through there from the sill plate channel where there is a gap below the wheel well trim. No luck.
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified113_zpsuv4qf3rh.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified113_zpsuv4qf3rh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified113_zpsuv4qf3rh.jpg"/></a>
I was angry. So angry that I went inside, opened this laptop, and searched for someone with a similar problem or solution. This was after a LONG time of trying to feed it through there. After I searched, up popped this:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/137486-arb-fridge-wiring-loom-install-help.html
post #6 from [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] "Open the rear door and pull the weatherstripping loose around the back side of the opening. This leaves a small gap where you can run a fish to pull your wires through. Easy once you figure it out!"
You don't say. It can't be that easy. I went outside and popped the door weatherstripping off to find a huge gap just waiting there for me. It was beautiful. I fed the wires through where my finger is and then just pushed it behind the panel all the way back down to the sill plate.
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified111_zps2hojqrda.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified111_zps2hojqrda.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified111_zps2hojqrda.jpg"/></a>
I didn't need the fish tape or anything. I just fed them through there and could see them from the other side where the tray was removed over the wheel well. I used the coat hanger to grab the wires and pull them through. I'd already bent it up so I wanted to use it for something I guess. 2 of the 3 wires I ran (I re-ran my light wires with the fridge) I could just grab by hand. One needed the custom hook.
Pulled the wires through and cut to length
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified117_zpslat2gtrt.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified117_zpslat2gtrt.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified117_zpslat2gtrt.jpg"/></a>
I tossed the connectors that came with the ARB kit and crimped on some quick connects
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified123_zpsiskmljvh.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified123_zpsiskmljvh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified123_zpsiskmljvh.jpg"/></a>
Drilled a hole
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified119_zpspdhpv8sc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified119_zpspdhpv8sc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified119_zpspdhpv8sc.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified120_zps9ubn3pir.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified120_zps9ubn3pir.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified120_zps9ubn3pir.jpg"/></a>
Connected the outlet
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified121_zpsjcjmq9es.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified121_zpsjcjmq9es.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified121_zpsjcjmq9es.jpg"/></a>
Popped it in the hole with the retaining ring on the back (I actually used two retaining rings since I broke the first socket and had an extra).
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified122_zps89tpoess.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified122_zps89tpoess.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified122_zps89tpoess.jpg"/></a>
Cleaned up my mess
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/unspecified118_zpswgs0rnkq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/unspecified118_zpswgs0rnkq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo unspecified118_zpswgs0rnkq.jpg"/></a>
Works great. Much of this won't pertain to you if you are using the factory 12v and not the ARB outlet. But I figured I would make it complete anyway. Again, I am not sure I would waste money on the ARB kit in your situation. Like I said, this took me hours to do and now I think I could re-do it in 20 minutes or so knowing how to deal with the B pillar and rear wheel well issues.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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Jhalko
New member
You probably would never get through under the B pillar, the factory wires come out of the harness and go different directions under there, Seems very possible to damage the little wires if you tried to force it under there. To remove the b pillar bottom cover you just pop the little plastic cover off the seat belt bolt, remove that bolt and once again just pop the panel off, easy as pie (after you've done it the first time of course!). I have pictures as I am going to document how I did mine, but it might be a couple weeks before I get to that. I did pay for the ARB wires, over priced but the wires come together with a protective wrap with fuse and holder already in and the perfect length, given how much I suck at wiring ANYTHING I just got lazy and spent the money.
familymopar
New member
I figured if I had removed the seat belt bolt that piece may give way. No need though. My 3 fat wires slipped under the edge just fine.
Are you gong to use the ARB outlet? I like it and recommend it if for nothing else then that it is a positive connection that screws in, it is definitely not falling out and leaving you with the surprise of warm beer. But for [MENTION=115953]HerT4R[/MENTION] 's application I don't see why I would get the ARB kit. She is using a non-ARB fridge and therefore can't use the outlet. I suppose if she just wants something pre-wrapped and with an in-line fuse already there it could make sense but it's a lot to pay for that I would think. I would toss the provided connectors and just use quick disconnects either way though.
HerT4R
New member
what he said:
it may seem crazy but i wanted a self contained setup that i could easily run, ARB had it. I bought it. Want to buy the fridge receptacle? LOL.
familymopar
New member
Not crazy. Do it however you are comfortable with. Although I am fairly certain they sell the wires without the outlet much cheaper. Honestly, 20 feet of 8 gauge red and 20 feet of 8 gauge black, plus 20 feet of heat shrink tube, plus a 15 amp fuse receptacle and fuse probably come out to pretty close to the same. And there is a premium on easy / done. In any event, I am not a "you're doing it wrong" or "you should have done it this way" kind of guy.
Feel free to drop off that outlet anytime you want. I did break my first one after all.
DesertCanyons
New member
Family and Fun
That's a great use of the new family 4Runner. Great pics of the kids. I like the one of your son climbing up onto the roof rack. He's resourceful. Fun times.
I'm looking forward to getting my wife and I out for some 4 wheeling with a bunch of friends in the local mountains.
That's a great use of the new family 4Runner. Great pics of the kids. I like the one of your son climbing up onto the roof rack. He's resourceful. Fun times.
I'm looking forward to getting my wife and I out for some 4 wheeling with a bunch of friends in the local mountains.
familymopar
New member
Absolutely. I will say unequivocally that the greatest benefit to the 4runner so far has been getting the family out together doing fun stuff. We all love it and we all fit. I had some misgivings driving the new 4runner home and selling my car, which I loved. But I have never looked back. It's too much fun. And of course being a car guy who can never leave well enough alone, the 4runner presents many opportunities for me to play in the driveway too.
And yes, my boy climbs all over that truck. At first I tried to stop it. But it's a truck and that's what it's for. I have other garage queens. He calls it the jungle gym. And that's ok. It's ok. It's ok. I just have to keep reminding myself of that.
Have fun in your adventures!
Ohio_Steve
New member
Really close! I've been doing some planning to add a distribution block at the rear end of my inbound 4Runner, so I've watched this thread with interest. I just put together a quick virtual harness and come up with the following:
20 ft 8 ga black wire at Lowes $0.59/ft
20 ft 8 ga red wire at Lowes $0.59/ft
20 ft 3/8" ID split cable loom from cabletiesandmore.com $0.32/ft
Pico 8 ga 60A fuse holder at Amazon $5.88
Bussmann 30A blade fuse at Amazon $5.32
Total = $41.20 excluding any tax or shipping.
Amazon carries the ARB kit for $46.19 with free prime shipping.
Jet.com carries if for $48.19 and free shipping, plus 15% off for my first order = $40.96
I think I'm gonna order from Jet!
Thanks for persuading me to go through this exercise,
Steve
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familymopar
New member
I did a search of this site and did not see anything about Capsures. So I figured I'd toss it out here.
I wanted some captive valve stem caps. We air down for the sand quite a bit, and once I heard these little things existed I had to have some. I first found the NoLoss caps on Sierra Expeditions as seen here:
NoLoss Valve Caps - Sierra Expeditions
I fired off an email to them but never heard back. My questions were (1) about their viability with a TPMS system and whether that was a system like mine (warning lights up when low) or rather one of the types that actually gives you constant readout and (2) was there a mistake in shipping calculation? The shipping was almost as much as the product when you would think it was the cost of an envelope and two stamps. Anyway, I never heard back. And this may be a great company, I'm not saying otherwise, but I took it as a sign. I have seen the NoLoss caps talked about on this forum so maybe they know better. I avoid someone who doesn't answer an email.
So I found these on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Capsure-Red/d...55132&sr=8-1&keywords=capsure+valve+stem+caps
Made by these folks:
https://www.capsuretirecaps.com/homepage.html
It doesn't seem to matter with these whether you have TPMS. And hey, free shipping from Amazon!
So I have had them about a year. They are awesome. For the money it is a great investment. I got red to match the center cap logo on my truck, but they have different colors. Like the NoLoss, they have small rubber O-rings in the cap to keep you going if you lose a valve stem core.
It sounds like I work for these guys. I don't. I really know nothing about them except that the product is awesome and was a wonderful way to spend $12. As a matter of fact I think I will go buy some back ups before y'all buy them all. Seriously, go get some. I can't say enough about them. A simple solution to a real world problem.
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/IMG_4457_zpsjj3ygixq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/IMG_4457_zpsjj3ygixq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_4457_zpsjj3ygixq.jpg"/></a>
I wanted some captive valve stem caps. We air down for the sand quite a bit, and once I heard these little things existed I had to have some. I first found the NoLoss caps on Sierra Expeditions as seen here:
NoLoss Valve Caps - Sierra Expeditions
I fired off an email to them but never heard back. My questions were (1) about their viability with a TPMS system and whether that was a system like mine (warning lights up when low) or rather one of the types that actually gives you constant readout and (2) was there a mistake in shipping calculation? The shipping was almost as much as the product when you would think it was the cost of an envelope and two stamps. Anyway, I never heard back. And this may be a great company, I'm not saying otherwise, but I took it as a sign. I have seen the NoLoss caps talked about on this forum so maybe they know better. I avoid someone who doesn't answer an email.
So I found these on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Capsure-Red/d...55132&sr=8-1&keywords=capsure+valve+stem+caps
Made by these folks:
https://www.capsuretirecaps.com/homepage.html
It doesn't seem to matter with these whether you have TPMS. And hey, free shipping from Amazon!
So I have had them about a year. They are awesome. For the money it is a great investment. I got red to match the center cap logo on my truck, but they have different colors. Like the NoLoss, they have small rubber O-rings in the cap to keep you going if you lose a valve stem core.
It sounds like I work for these guys. I don't. I really know nothing about them except that the product is awesome and was a wonderful way to spend $12. As a matter of fact I think I will go buy some back ups before y'all buy them all. Seriously, go get some. I can't say enough about them. A simple solution to a real world problem.
<a href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/chuckgreenlee/media/IMG_4457_zpsjj3ygixq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/chuckgreenlee/IMG_4457_zpsjj3ygixq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_4457_zpsjj3ygixq.jpg"/></a>
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familymopar
New member
Sure thing!
Once you add in the ring terminals for the battery end and some type of connectors for the fridge end (although, again, I'd toss the ones that come with the kit), it appears you are doing pretty well to just buy the kit.
Truth be told, I think I have everything to put this together in my garage already and I bought it anyway too. I really wanted that outlet, and I'm glad I did. I guess I could have bought the outlet alone, but I didn't. Well I did, after I broke the first one.
Good luck!
Ohio_Steve
New member
Yea, I'm not adding a fridge, but adding a distribution block back there somewhere for my portable compressor, rear flood lights, inverter, etc. whatever I put back there. So no need for the receptacle. 20 feet is plenty long to get back there? My 4Runner is still on a boat, so I can't measure. Just doing a lot of planning and stockpiling parts.
Thanks!
Thanks!
familymopar
New member
That sounds like a good idea....
Yes. The ARB kit comes as a 20 foot section to be trimmed. Once I ran from the battery and behind / under all the panels, I cut off a few feet and left an extra 10-12 inches in the wheel well for ease of installation and in case I had any problems. So 20 feet should be good for you depending on where you're going.
Ohio_Steve
New member
familymopar
New member
If that's where you're running to then yes, I agree.
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