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I got my new shoes on
American Racing ATX Teflon Mojaves - Part AX39817883
Center Cap (not pictured here) - Part 1425006018
Big-O Big Foot AT - LT265/70R17 Load Class E
I like the Mojaves cuz they look similar to the factory wheels. They were tough to get, though. Long wait. Plus, AR sent the wrong center caps. John's couldn't seem to find the right ones, so I bought a set of 4 elsewhere on the 'net. The ones I got look decent (not pictured here), but they're 2-piece and the plastic cap (removable I assume for old school locking hub applications) is extremely fragile -- 2 of the 4 arrived with broken tabs. Plus, they stick out past the edge of the wheel, so rock "flip up" may be an issue.
I went with stock sized tires because for the following subjective reasons:
1) I didn't want the speedometer to be off,
2) I didn't want the odometer to be off,
3) I didn't want to deal with fender well rubbing, and maybe diminished articulation,
4) I didn't get caster-adjustable UCA's,
5) I wasn't sure a larger tire would fit in the factory spare location, given the receiver hitch,
6) putting the spare on top of the vehicle is awkward, increases center of gravity, and vehicle height,
7) there were few rear carrier/bumper options, and I like the stock look,
8) it's my DD, and
9) I figured that skids and sliders would make up for the 1" of lost clearance.
Sold my factory wheels for $500 total on eBay. Used the Mojave boxes for shipping.
Sold the factory rubber for $400 total on craigslist.
American Racing ATX Teflon Mojaves - Part AX39817883
Center Cap (not pictured here) - Part 1425006018
Big-O Big Foot AT - LT265/70R17 Load Class E
I like the Mojaves cuz they look similar to the factory wheels. They were tough to get, though. Long wait. Plus, AR sent the wrong center caps. John's couldn't seem to find the right ones, so I bought a set of 4 elsewhere on the 'net. The ones I got look decent (not pictured here), but they're 2-piece and the plastic cap (removable I assume for old school locking hub applications) is extremely fragile -- 2 of the 4 arrived with broken tabs. Plus, they stick out past the edge of the wheel, so rock "flip up" may be an issue.
I went with stock sized tires because for the following subjective reasons:
1) I didn't want the speedometer to be off,
2) I didn't want the odometer to be off,
3) I didn't want to deal with fender well rubbing, and maybe diminished articulation,
4) I didn't get caster-adjustable UCA's,
5) I wasn't sure a larger tire would fit in the factory spare location, given the receiver hitch,
6) putting the spare on top of the vehicle is awkward, increases center of gravity, and vehicle height,
7) there were few rear carrier/bumper options, and I like the stock look,
8) it's my DD, and
9) I figured that skids and sliders would make up for the 1" of lost clearance.
Sold my factory wheels for $500 total on eBay. Used the Mojave boxes for shipping.
Sold the factory rubber for $400 total on craigslist.
Attachments
Last edited:
Belly armor
BudBuilt 5 piece (Front, Mid, T-Case, Tank, & Rear Diff), Black
BB skids are awesome. That said, they added over 200 lbs.
I installed them myself, using a hydraulic floor jack.
I'd recommend getting an extra set of fasteners for the long run - just in case.
If you get the 5-piece set like I did, I'd also recommend taking everything off, then installing the T-case brace and skid first. The T-case skid has holes that line up with the frame precisely -- there's much less wiggle room than there is for the other skids. It's possible to install the other pieces such that the connections to the T-case skid are "off". :happens:
Finally, I had to do some serious grinding (and then painting) to the diff skid.
Sold the factory skids on eBay for decent prices.
Sold the factory running boards, too. Also decent prices.
Don't have pics of these.
BudBuilt 5 piece (Front, Mid, T-Case, Tank, & Rear Diff), Black
BB skids are awesome. That said, they added over 200 lbs.
I installed them myself, using a hydraulic floor jack.
I'd recommend getting an extra set of fasteners for the long run - just in case.
If you get the 5-piece set like I did, I'd also recommend taking everything off, then installing the T-case brace and skid first. The T-case skid has holes that line up with the frame precisely -- there's much less wiggle room than there is for the other skids. It's possible to install the other pieces such that the connections to the T-case skid are "off". :happens:
Finally, I had to do some serious grinding (and then painting) to the diff skid.
Sold the factory skids on eBay for decent prices.
Sold the factory running boards, too. Also decent prices.
Don't have pics of these.
Sliders
ShrockWorks Sliders
I really like the look of the SW sliders. That said, they add over 100 lbs.
I'm also impressed with the way they've changed the playing field as far as door dings go. I used to worry about the lack of body molding -- no more.
Here they are, with the center caps finally on...
ShrockWorks Sliders
I really like the look of the SW sliders. That said, they add over 100 lbs.
I'm also impressed with the way they've changed the playing field as far as door dings go. I used to worry about the lack of body molding -- no more.
Here they are, with the center caps finally on...
Attachments
SW Leveling?
John's 4x4 installed the sliders, too. They hang down lower in back than in front -- kind of a dumpy look. SW said that they're adjustable. Anybody have this experience? I need to loosen them up and apply some leverage. IDK.
More time on my back under my vehicle...
:violin:
John's 4x4 installed the sliders, too. They hang down lower in back than in front -- kind of a dumpy look. SW said that they're adjustable. Anybody have this experience? I need to loosen them up and apply some leverage. IDK.
More time on my back under my vehicle...
:violin:
Attachments
What's in the box?
Tuffy Custom-built Storage
Tactical Security Drawer
The factory sliding tray has a number of great uses. No argument here. I just needed secure storage for my extraction/safety/emergency gear, which I carry around religiously. The sliding tray was a couple of inches tall and I didn't want to lose that space by mounting a solution on top of it, so I took it out, installed a plywood floor, and mounted this steel, sliding-drawer storage box. It has vinyl diamond plating on the top.
There's another series of photos of it elsewhere here, so I'll just repeat the finished product -- with Hi-Lift.
42" All Cast, Hi-Lift
Off-road base, handle keeper, 4xRac, Off-road kit
Tuffy Custom-built Storage
Tactical Security Drawer
The factory sliding tray has a number of great uses. No argument here. I just needed secure storage for my extraction/safety/emergency gear, which I carry around religiously. The sliding tray was a couple of inches tall and I didn't want to lose that space by mounting a solution on top of it, so I took it out, installed a plywood floor, and mounted this steel, sliding-drawer storage box. It has vinyl diamond plating on the top.
There's another series of photos of it elsewhere here, so I'll just repeat the finished product -- with Hi-Lift.
42" All Cast, Hi-Lift
Off-road base, handle keeper, 4xRac, Off-road kit
Attachments
mikey's2010SR5
New member
I like the storage in the rear. I made my own and looks very similar and also put the hi lift on the box. Nice progress so far and love the blue!
As Far as the sliders being adjustable, I would not know. I never heard they were adjustable but I am sure there is some play if you loosen some bolts. The look like they are drooping because the rear kicks out ever so slightly. But that is just my opinion.
As Far as the sliders being adjustable, I would not know. I never heard they were adjustable but I am sure there is some play if you loosen some bolts. The look like they are drooping because the rear kicks out ever so slightly. But that is just my opinion.
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Nice rack
Yakima Basketcase, DIY fasteners, removable
Rotopax 3 gallon fuel cell, standard mount, lock
I finally get to use that "rack" smiley... :naughty:
:girl:
I did a HUGE amount of "shopping" for racks. I visited Paul down at Gobi, and would highly recommend him and his products. I like the short Bajarack, too, because it resembles the factory rails, but has nice bottom support.
I just don't carry that much around -- or that often. If I did, I think I'd get the 18 cu. ft Thule. It's removable, waterproof, and shorter than the comparable Yakima by 10".
I don't really need extra driving lights either. Modern lights, and the PIAA bulb upgrade I did (more on that later), should be enough for my purposes. I could see how rack lights (especially on the side) would help with night time set up of a camp site. I'm just too old and cranky for camping any more.
I do have to cart around fuel once in a while for my snow thrower, and I learned my lesson about transporting fuel in the passenger compartment the hard way -- miserable gas smell. Lucky I didn't blow myself up. (Saw the FJ acetylene post)
:redbrick:
So, the solution that's right for me...
Yakima Basketcase, DIY fasteners, removable
Rotopax 3 gallon fuel cell, standard mount, lock
I finally get to use that "rack" smiley... :naughty:
:girl:
I did a HUGE amount of "shopping" for racks. I visited Paul down at Gobi, and would highly recommend him and his products. I like the short Bajarack, too, because it resembles the factory rails, but has nice bottom support.
I just don't carry that much around -- or that often. If I did, I think I'd get the 18 cu. ft Thule. It's removable, waterproof, and shorter than the comparable Yakima by 10".
I don't really need extra driving lights either. Modern lights, and the PIAA bulb upgrade I did (more on that later), should be enough for my purposes. I could see how rack lights (especially on the side) would help with night time set up of a camp site. I'm just too old and cranky for camping any more.
I do have to cart around fuel once in a while for my snow thrower, and I learned my lesson about transporting fuel in the passenger compartment the hard way -- miserable gas smell. Lucky I didn't blow myself up. (Saw the FJ acetylene post)
:redbrick:
So, the solution that's right for me...
Attachments
Thanks, Mikey!
On the sliders, I measured from the body to the square rail. There's a 1/2" difference. I'll report back after I attempt to adjust them.
:thanks:
Moab
I spent all this time and all these posts trying get caught up, so I could post my picture-wh0re snaps from Moab. Got back last night. Good weather. Good wheelin'.
I have some odd but entertaining time lapse trail footage, which I promise to add soon.
#1:
Long Canyon
Easy
Better from west-to-east/top-to-bottom because of the views. Don't forget to see Jug Handle Arch at the bottom.
I spent all this time and all these posts trying get caught up, so I could post my picture-wh0re snaps from Moab. Got back last night. Good weather. Good wheelin'.
I have some odd but entertaining time lapse trail footage, which I promise to add soon.
#1:
Long Canyon
Easy
Better from west-to-east/top-to-bottom because of the views. Don't forget to see Jug Handle Arch at the bottom.
