This site has been a pretty invaluable resource to me. I wanted to try and contribute some information that I haven't been able to find here.
I have a 1997 4Runner Limited with the factory elocker. Like several people, I had issues with the status light continually blinking - which is supposed to indicate that the locking differential is out of sync and generally won't engage.
The thing was, I could swear the locker was working - though I was nervous because I read that the splines could have shallow contact and therefore be damaged if they were stressed.
This thread got me thinking that it might just be the sensor - Rear Diff Lock not Engaging (3rd-Gen 4-Runner) - YotaTech Forums.
It's one of those niggling things that kind of defeats the purpose of the locker if you're unsure about using it. Unfortunately the guy in the thread vanished without any details on the part number.
It's a bit of an esoteric part to hunt down - but Toyota calls it a switch instead of a sensor, part number 84222-12010. It doesn't show that it's listed for the 4Runner anywhere I looked, but I found it on the 80 series Land Cruiser. Later I would find out that it's the same switch as for the back up lamp on our 4Runners, and that yes, they do go bad.
The list is $70, but full credit goes to this thread for finding it for about a quarter the price. Replacement for 84222-12010 switch | IH8MUD Forum.
Pretty straightforward to replace:
A 1-1/16 socket and the Beck Arnley 201-1788 Switch via Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KSCYCI/. I think the socket was a little off for the existing switch to be honest (I think I read it was 27mm somewhere), but it worked well enough - and was a perfect fit for the replacement.
There are two switches next to each other, pop the clip off of the one on the left and then unscrew.
Replacement and the old switch.
Keeping fingers crossed that this is actually the issue and I won't have to tear the elocker apart.
I screwed everything in.
And what do you know, was the sensor all along.
Note that no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the old plug to "click" onto the sensor. I tried with the old switch and it did the same thing. So after snapping the little tab off on accident, in order to make sure it never comes loose I might thread some aircraft wire through the plug later if I get inspired.
Anyway, YMMV but after reading countless threads on rebuilding the elocker I think, for $20, if you're reasonably certain it's working and the light is still blinking - it's worth testing the sensor before getting too deep into your locker.
I have a 1997 4Runner Limited with the factory elocker. Like several people, I had issues with the status light continually blinking - which is supposed to indicate that the locking differential is out of sync and generally won't engage.
The thing was, I could swear the locker was working - though I was nervous because I read that the splines could have shallow contact and therefore be damaged if they were stressed.
This thread got me thinking that it might just be the sensor - Rear Diff Lock not Engaging (3rd-Gen 4-Runner) - YotaTech Forums.
It's one of those niggling things that kind of defeats the purpose of the locker if you're unsure about using it. Unfortunately the guy in the thread vanished without any details on the part number.
It's a bit of an esoteric part to hunt down - but Toyota calls it a switch instead of a sensor, part number 84222-12010. It doesn't show that it's listed for the 4Runner anywhere I looked, but I found it on the 80 series Land Cruiser. Later I would find out that it's the same switch as for the back up lamp on our 4Runners, and that yes, they do go bad.
The list is $70, but full credit goes to this thread for finding it for about a quarter the price. Replacement for 84222-12010 switch | IH8MUD Forum.
Pretty straightforward to replace:
A 1-1/16 socket and the Beck Arnley 201-1788 Switch via Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KSCYCI/. I think the socket was a little off for the existing switch to be honest (I think I read it was 27mm somewhere), but it worked well enough - and was a perfect fit for the replacement.
There are two switches next to each other, pop the clip off of the one on the left and then unscrew.
Replacement and the old switch.
Keeping fingers crossed that this is actually the issue and I won't have to tear the elocker apart.
I screwed everything in.
And what do you know, was the sensor all along.
Note that no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the old plug to "click" onto the sensor. I tried with the old switch and it did the same thing. So after snapping the little tab off on accident, in order to make sure it never comes loose I might thread some aircraft wire through the plug later if I get inspired.
Anyway, YMMV but after reading countless threads on rebuilding the elocker I think, for $20, if you're reasonably certain it's working and the light is still blinking - it's worth testing the sensor before getting too deep into your locker.
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