Few more 1st Gen questions

[Back_Draft445]

Alright guys Ive got a long list of things that im going to do to my truck with not only my income tax return, but I also just landed a part time job at Advanced Auto parts ( Im also a full time college student ). So I have come up with some more questions for you good people!

1. I'm planning on doing a EGR delete on my 22re. I have looked and looked and cant seem to find a answer to all my questions on the subject. I found the block off plate kit the LC sells, and ive got one of those on the way, but i'm still confused on what all gets to come off and what all vacuum lines get to go. If anyone can point me in the direction of a detailed write-up with good pics, or could just give me good info it would be much appreciated! Also does the charcoal canister get to come off when you do the EGR delete?

2. Ignition Upgrades. Im planning on doing plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, and rotor. I have been told that the NGK iridium plugs are the best to run in these motors, any other thoughts on the subject? Im also going to make my own set of plug wires because it seems like every set of wires you buy off the shelf are wayyyy to long. And the coil, I looked it up at work and found a Accell 41000 volt, 1.2 Ohm coil. Is there any thing special that has to be done to put this in, or is it a direct replacement?

3. LED light bar. I found a 40in light bar that I want to get to go above the windshield. Does anyone have one of these on their 1st GEN or has anyone seen one mounted? If so how were they mounted? I was thinking about getting some bar mounts and mounting the light bar on my yakima kayak rack, but was worried about theft since its not to hard to pry the doors open.

4. CAI. Ive seen some folks running a K&N or equivalent filter on what appears to be a factory MAF without a airbox. How do they do this, and does it give any benefits over just running a good K&N inside the factory air box?

5. TPS. I dont know too much about these. Is it a part that needs to be checked or adjusted even if the motor runs fine? If not whats the proper way to go about checking/adjusting them?

6. Throttle body spacer. I noticed on LCE's website that they offer a throttle body spacer for the 22re for around $50. Does anyone have one of these? If so do they offer any benefits?

7. Exhaust. When I rebuilt my motor I put a Pace Setter header on, deleted the cat, and slapped a 16 inch cherry bomb on it. Well when I quit driving the truck daily, my dad drove it some to keep it going and he didnt like the sound of the muffler so he took it to the local muffler shop and had them weld on a "school bus muffler" lol. Well its so quite now that i can barely hear the thing run, and can only imagine its very restrictive. So im looking to put something different on, but was looking for opinions. I want the least restrictive flow, but dont want it to be too loud or sound like a honda with a fart can. Also, with the Pace Setter the o2 sensor got moved way down the line, behind the collector. Does this cause any problems? Do i need to move it?

8. Headlights. I can barely see to drive even with my high beams on at night. So ive been looking into upgrading them. I see conversion kits on ebay that are projector replacements that use a H4 bulb. Does anyone use these? I of course wouldn't use the crappy "hid" lights they send with the housings, I would get a decent set online somewhere. If I do this, do I need to upgrade the trucks factory headlight wiring harness at all? If so does anyone have a write-up for it?

All right, if you guys are still here with me thanks! Sorry for the lengthy post, just had a lot of questions to get answered. The main reason im doing the ignition, exhaust, and asked about the CAI is due to my seemingly bad fuel mileage, Im getting about 15MPG right now and thats at about 70/30 highway/city driving. I baby my truck too, accelerate very slowly and shift out at about 2000RPM. Any info or answers to my questions are very very much appreciated! And of course a thread with these mods, and pics are soon to follow! Also, if anyone lives around central Arkansas and wants to trade wheels im taking offers! gotta be either 15X8 or 15X10!! Thanks guys!

 

[92-SR5]

For question number 8, I'd get a set of hella h4 conversion housings or something similar. Stick a quality bulb (I like silverstars) in them and you'll have a lot more light output. I think IPF makes them as well.

 

[KidVermicious]

Alright guys Ive got a long list of things that im going to do to my truck with not only my income tax return, but I also just landed a part time job at Advanced Auto parts ( Im also a full time college student ). So I have come up with some more questions for you good people!

2. Ignition Upgrades. Im planning on doing plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, and rotor. I have been told that the NGK iridium plugs are the best to run in these motors, any other thoughts on the subject? Im also going to make my own set of plug wires because it seems like every set of wires you buy off the shelf are wayyyy to long. And the coil, I looked it up at work and found a Accell 41000 volt, 1.2 Ohm coil. Is there any thing special that has to be done to put this in, or is it a direct replacement?

You don't want fancy plugs, not even the NGK iridiums. These motors like the OE plugs, go with Denso coppers or the plain-jane NGKs.

Stay with the Sumitomo factory wires if you have them, and if you don't, get some. If you can't afford them (they aren't cheap), the NGK blue wires are acceptable. But check the ones you've got, first - all the spark plug wires need to do is get spark from the dist to the plug, and if they ohm out correctly and make a good connection, then they don't need replaced. Guys replace plugs and wires and shit all the time for no good reason - check what you've got first.

3. LED light bar. I found a 40in light bar that I want to get to go above the windshield. Does anyone have one of these on their 1st GEN or has anyone seen one mounted? If so how were they mounted? I was thinking about getting some bar mounts and mounting the light bar on my yakima kayak rack, but was worried about theft since its not to hard to pry the doors open.

My Thule guttermounts have locking knobs, you could look into that?

4. CAI. Ive seen some folks running a K&N or equivalent filter on what appears to be a factory MAF without a airbox. How do they do this, and does it give any benefits over just running a good K&N inside the factory air box?

There's several studies out there that show the K&N getting it's ass kicked both in terms of air flow and dirt protection. Lifetime filters like the K&N will end up coating your AFM and throttle body in oil no matter how carefully you oil them, and they don't provide enough extra air flow to be worth it even if you do oil it right. I threw out my K&N drop-in filter and went to a basic NAPA gold - no difference in throttle response, and my engine oil got cleaner.

I believe there are benefits to be gained by going to a stainless or aluminum intake tube though - smoother air is better air. And insulating it from the engine heat wouldn't hurt either.

5. TPS. I dont know too much about these. Is it a part that needs to be checked or adjusted even if the motor runs fine? If not whats the proper way to go about checking/adjusting them?

Normally once a TPS is adjusted it'll stay that way, but they can go bad. Can't hurt to ohm it out and make sure everything is working correctly.

Toyota 22RE Throttle Position Sensor

6. Throttle body spacer. I noticed on LCE's website that they offer a throttle body spacer for the 22re for around $50. Does anyone have one of these? If so do they offer any benefits?

Nope. Throttle body spacers may have worked on old-school carbed motors, but I'm not aware of anybody that's demonstrated a factual gain on a fuel injected motor, let alone a tiny one like the 22RE.

7. Exhaust. When I rebuilt my motor I put a Pace Setter header on, deleted the cat, and slapped a 16 inch cherry bomb on it. Well when I quit driving the truck daily, my dad drove it some to keep it going and he didnt like the sound of the muffler so he took it to the local muffler shop and had them weld on a "school bus muffler" lol. Well its so quite now that i can barely hear the thing run, and can only imagine its very restrictive. So im looking to put something different on, but was looking for opinions. I want the least restrictive flow, but dont want it to be too loud or sound like a honda with a fart can. Also, with the Pace Setter the o2 sensor got moved way down the line, behind the collector. Does this cause any problems? Do i need to move it?

Quiet does not equal restrictive, and loud does not equal powerful. Skip the street racer shit and run a basic 2.25" exhaust to a decent muffler. Guys seem to have good luck with turbo mufflers - good flow, quiet at idle, and a nice note when you get your foot in it.

O2 sensors on headers are problematic. When you have a long-tube header and only one O2 sensor there's no good place to put it - locate it high enough that it gets good heat and it's only going to read one or two cylinders. Put it down low below the collector and the exhaust may not be hot enough for the sensor to read well. I've heard noises about using a heated sensor, but I never looked into it.

8. Headlights. I can barely see to drive even with my high beams on at night. So ive been looking into upgrading them. I see conversion kits on ebay that are projector replacements that use a H4 bulb. Does anyone use these? I of course wouldn't use the crappy "hid" lights they send with the housings, I would get a decent set online somewhere. If I do this, do I need to upgrade the trucks factory headlight wiring harness at all? If so does anyone have a write-up for it?

A set of conversion buckets from IPF or Roundeyes and a basic set of H4 60/55w bulbs is a huge improvement (it's what I run), and it drops in, it's a 20 minute conversion with no wiring or mods necessary. You can use higher watt bulbs, but you will melt your factory wiring, and you'll be a dickhead for blinding other drivers .

If you really want HID, you're smart to stay away from the "hid kits" - they suck. Check out the mini projector conversion kits from Morimoto - I haven't tried yet, but I think you should be able to modify a stock sealed beam housing to add the projector. If not, I KNOW you can modify a set of aftermarket conversion buckets. Keep in mind that aftermarket HIDs aren't street legal anywhere, projector housing or not - check with your local guys to see if cops in your area will ding you for it.

Bad fuel mileage on these trucks is almost always because it's out of tune. A set of decent Denso plugs with the proper gap, ohm out the spark plug wires and make sure they're in spec, adjust the TPS, replace the air filter, clean out the black goo in your throttle body and intake runners, replace the 02 sensor, set your timing and idle correctly, and your mileage should improve. If it doesn't, you've got trouble.

As to performance, there's not a whole lot to get from these little motors. Once the motor is running correctly, the best thing you can do for it is make sure your diffs are geared correctly for your tire size - that'll make the biggest difference. Then get out the timing gun. Stock timing is -5 BTDC, but you can push these trucks as far as -12 to -15 on regular gas, and it makes a bit of a difference. Don't push it so far that the motor starts pinging, that's a good way melt shit.

After that, a decent header (I don't know if the Pacesetter is decent, I ran a Thorley and liked it) will make a noticeable seat-of-the-pants difference. So will an aftermarket cam (I had a 261). Once you've got a cam and header you can start playing with the intake - google "22re late model plenum conversion". Once you've got your hands on a late-model intake plenum, send it into Maxbore to be ported and matched, and that will open up your potential air intake significantly. Once you've done that, look for an AFM from an '82 Celica Supra with the 5MGE motor, it's a 3" bore and plug-and-play with the 22RE wiring (other 5MGE AFMs are similiar, but you'd have to solder in the circuit board from your old AFM). Do all that and it should wake your little motor right the hell up, to the tune of about 20-25 more ponies. If you need more, look into a ported head with oversize valves (engbldr, 22reperformance.com, lcengineering), that'll be good for maybe another 15? But short of stroking or forced induction, that's all you're going to get out of these little motors, and it'll run you several thousand to get there, and you run the risk of making your bulletproof 22RE not so reliable. So before you let the mod bug bite you, think long and hard and decide for yourself if ~150 HP on an iffy motor is enough for you, and then decide if it's worth a couple grand to get there. I decided to build my 22RE only because I couldn't find the motor swap I wanted - now that I found my 3RZ, I'm kicking the 22RE to the curb. It's a good little motor for what it is, but what it is is a little motor.

 

[Hyde802]

Kid v for the win.

So many words in this thread... :keyboard:

 

[KidVermicious]

Kid v for the win.

So many words in this thread... :keyboard:

Seriously. I must have been bored.

 

[Back_Draft445]

Sweet. Thanks KidV. What should the spark plug wires ohm out at? Im running a set of Taylor 8.2 thundervolt wires right now. Ill read up on the TPS thread you posted. I replaced my air filter just a few weeks ago, and I guess ill add a o2 sensor to the list of parts and see if I can borrow a timing light from someone. How do you go about setting the idle properly? And any info on a EGR delete? Thanks for all the info!

 

[KidVermicious]

Sweet. Thanks KidV. What should the spark plug wires ohm out at? Im running a set of Taylor 8.2 thundervolt wires right now. Ill read up on the TPS thread you posted. I replaced my air filter just a few weeks ago, and I guess ill add a o2 sensor to the list of parts and see if I can borrow a timing light from someone. How do you go about setting the idle properly? And any info on a EGR delete? Thanks for all the info!

You need to DL the factory service manual .

Any cord measuring higher than 25 kOhm is out of spec, and obviously the lower the better. Idle is set with the adjusting screw on the throttle body with the test port jumped, there's details in that TPS article. I dunno about the EGR delete, I'm subject to emissions so I've never done it.

 

[stanz]

Ditto on all of KV's responses. I would add one thing on the header question.

I have an 86 4Runner 22RE. I recently installed LCE's header and placed the stock single wire non-heated O2 Sensor downstream. I had some CEL issues because the OEM sensor was not a heated one. I've had no issues since.

I wired up a 4-wire sensor from an 88 4Runner and have had no issues.

Custom weatherproof 4-wire O2 sensor harness I made using the harness connector I purchased from chasebays.com:






Relay installed to power heater in O2 sensor:


O2 Sensor Installed (Denso 234-4052):

 

[KidVermicious]

Ditto on all of KV's responses. I would add one thing on the header question.

I have an 86 4Runner 22RE. I recently installed LCE's header and placed the stock single wire non-heated O2 Sensor downstream. I had some CEL issues because the OEM sensor was not a heated one. I've had no issues since.

I wired up a 4-wire sensor from an 88 4Runner and have had no issues.

The heated sensor did make a difference? That's good to know.

 

[Back_Draft445]

Ditto on all of KV's responses. I would add one thing on the header question.

I have an 86 4Runner 22RE. I recently installed LCE's header and placed the stock single wire non-heated O2 Sensor downstream. I had some CEL issues because the OEM sensor was not a heated one. I've had no issues since.

I wired up a 4-wire sensor from an 88 4Runner and have had no issues.

Thanks for the info! Could you give a quick write-up on the harness you made, and the relay, where everything goes etc?

 

[Back_Draft445]

You need to DL the factory service manual .

Ill download the one you linked too in that one thread when i get home. But holy crap, 1025 pages! Might be taking this one to school or somewhere that has a faster printer than what i have at home!

 

[sam24th]

Ill download the one you linked too in that one thread when i get home. But holy crap, 1025 pages! Might be taking this one to school or somewhere that has a faster printer than what i have at home!

:jaw: Holy crap you plan on printing it? I just download it to my laptop and take it out o the shop when I need it.

 

[Nervo19]

Put the manual on a memory stick. If you print figure 10 cents a page...then it's like... expensive! I got a rare '89 FSM on eBay for $9.99, a little dirty and missing the back cover. If you want a hard copy, eBay is the place. It will take patience for the right deal.

 

[Back_Draft445]

:jaw: Holy crap you plan on printing it? I just download it to my laptop and take it out o the shop when I need it.

Hold my beer and watch this! Ill get it done, not matter what it takes! Id just like to have a hard copy so im not lugging my computer out into the shop, potentially damaging it or getting it dirty ( too big of a risk for a $1500 MacBook Pro ).

 

[RAD4Runner]

Restore Reliability with Stock Parts First...

Restore Reliability with Stock Parts First...

Agree with KidV on OEM spark plugs and wires. Try Automotive OE Replacement and Performance Parts - In Stock for Your Tune-Up! - good brands, good prices.

... "If I do this, do I need to upgrade the trucks factory headlight wiring harness at all? If so does anyone have a write-up for it? "

While housing conversion will improve things because of better bulbs, stock wiring is flawed and sends headlight current over long thin wires and through your dimmer-combo switch (BAAAD!), resulting in lots of voltage drops and power loss over the long wire..

If I were to do only one headlight upgrade at a time, I would:
1) Do the H4 conversion harness first, then
2) Housing conversion.

H4 conversion will correct an electrical design flaw that hastens demise of dimmer-combo switch, and gives you that dim headlight..
Housing conversion merely improves on an outdated- not exactly bad- bulb.

See 4 crawler's write-up on H4 conversion.