Finally installing toytec lift, opinions/questions!

[00_4runner]

Hey guys after stock piling a massive amounts of parts over the last couple months, its time to install my toytec lift. I ordered the full lift kit with coilovers up front and 891s with 5150s in the rear. I also have the sonoran adjustable panhard, extended bumpstops with adapters, and new rear brake lines. I just got a few questions...

1. I've read and seen several people post about loosening and re-torquing control arm bolts in the rear in order to allow them to be re-set at the new ride height. Is there anything that needs to be done along this lines for the front?

2. Any tips for install? Besides lots of PB blaster haha

3. On somewhat of a side note I was going to buy 265/75/16s but Ive noticed, and read, that tire manufacturers are phasing out D range tires in certain sizes. So I don't know whether to just buy the E range, I dont really mind a harsher/stiffer ride, or get a different tire. I dont think I want duratracs but then again I haven't been able to find any other tires that I like. Definitely looking at an AT tire though. Any recommendations here would be great.

4. One last thing, can someone with the toytec lift post measurement numbers? Ideally from hub to fender. I want to run about .5 inches of rake between the front and back so assuming the rear settles at approx 3in i want to run the front at 2.5in.

Ive researched over and over and over again because I like everything to be done perfectly the first time and without worry. Just making sure I have all my bases covered so I dont have to do anything twice.

As usual thanks for the help and responses! :thumb3:

 

[matthinnant]

To answer your question about tires I like maxxis buckshots even though they arent a AT tire they still ride smooth and dont have a loud road noise and last for a good amount of time and I have heard alot of ppl on here using the treadwright guard dogs which not real sure of as far as road noise and ride quality but they are at a great price thinking of picking up a pair for my 4runner. goodluck and post lots of pics of your ride.

 

[Aquabear]

I just got duratracs- check out the post- love em.
I just finished off my Nitto Terra Graps and they were great money spent. Lasted 40,000 miles and went thru anything.
I had BFG's which also lasted forever and went thru anything but they are louder (not MT loud) and in larger rain puddles they didnt pass water thru treads too well but they are a great tire.
Lotsa tire choices, just search n read reviews then pull the trigger- good luck also on doing ur toytec install. I'm very happy with mine.

 

[Baja Runner]

You wont need to loosen the control arms or panhard bar to install 891's... You should be able to just undo the shock and sway bar and drop the axle down with the frame supported.

For the rear upper shock mounts: Grab a 14mm deep socket on a 3/8 drive, put it on the nut and wedge it against the frame/body. Get some big pliers or channel locks and turn the upper body of the shock (you can bend it, dont worry... just get a good grip). You can break the nut free by turning the shock body. After that, just turn the shock body with your hands.

Shove new springs in, new shocks for the rear.

Front: Take off top nut on swaybar mount. Loosen the 3 top strut nuts all the way, but leave them on like 1 thread. Put your bottle jack upside-down and wedge it on top of the castle nut and the wheel well. Make sure you get it in a spot where it can't move around! You can turn the bottle jack with your fingers to move the A-arm down (and effectively increasing the distance between the upper and lower shock mounts). Once you start seeing the strut starting to drop down on the top mounts, you can undo the lower mount. (By dropping the A-arm down it takes off the tension of the lower mount).

You'll probably need to jack the A-arm down a little more to get your new assembly in. Do the top 3 bolts first, but keep them loose so you can move around the lower shock into place easy. Once you see the lower mount line up with the mount of the shock, slide your bolt in and tighten everything up.

Lastly, on tires. I would really really really stay away from load range E tires. I seriously think people are on crack for using them on 4Runners. It is NOT a good ride. You'll be kicking yourself in the ass. The OME springs and new Toytec springs have a higher spring rate already, and it'l be extremely stiff with those E's.

 

[00_4runner]

You wont need to loosen the control arms or panhard bar to install 891's... You should be able to just undo the shock and sway bar and drop the axle down with the frame supported.

For the rear upper shock mounts: Grab a 14mm deep socket on a 3/8 drive, put it on the nut and wedge it against the frame/body. Get some big pliers or channel locks and turn the upper body of the shock (you can bend it, dont worry... just get a good grip). You can break the nut free by turning the shock body. After that, just turn the shock body with your hands.

Shove new springs in, new shocks for the rear.

Front: Take off top nut on swaybar mount. Loosen the 3 top strut nuts all the way, but leave them on like 1 thread. Put your bottle jack upside-down and wedge it on top of the castle nut and the wheel well. Make sure you get it in a spot where it can't move around! You can turn the bottle jack with your fingers to move the A-arm down (and effectively increasing the distance between the upper and lower shock mounts). Once you start seeing the strut starting to drop down on the top mounts, you can undo the lower mount. (By dropping the A-arm down it takes off the tension of the lower mount).

You'll probably need to jack the A-arm down a little more to get your new assembly in. Do the top 3 bolts first, but keep them loose so you can move around the lower shock into place easy. Once you see the lower mount line up with the mount of the shock, slide your bolt in and tighten everything up.

Lastly, on tires. I would really really really stay away from load range E tires. I seriously think people are on crack for using them on 4Runners. It is NOT a good ride. You'll be kicking yourself in the ass. The OME springs and new Toytec springs have a higher spring rate already, and it'l be extremely stiff with those E's.

Thanks for the reply, as far as loosening the bolts Ive user Gerdo post this on several lift threads "THE solution is to loosen the upper control arm mounting bolt (where is attaches to the frame). This will allow the UCA to droop without any resistance. You will want to do this anyway because it will keep the bushings from constantly being torqued from the lift. Once you have everything done, drop it down on the ground and re-torque the bolts. They were originally torqued at stock ride height which causes the lack of droop that you are experiencing.

I would also loosen, and re-torque, all 8 bolts on the rear control arms to release those bushings. (if the rear was lifted)" Just making sure that this is what I need to do.

And I will probably stay away from the Es, just looking for a good tire instead of the bfg. Duratracs seem like the only other option but even after positive reviews here Ive seen lots of people say that they get to be very loud after a few thousand miles and very hard to balance.

 

[sn0wrunner]

Gerdo is referring to the front UCA bolts. If you loosen the front UCA bolts it will make the install for the front go a lot easier. Alternatively, you can use the stock bottle jack and turn it upside down in the wheel well to put some pressure on the UCA, that will make the install for the front a lot easier if you are having troubles taking the old coil over out, or putting the new one in.

 

[00_4runner]

Gerdo is referring to the front UCA bolts. If you loosen the front UCA bolts it will make the install for the front go a lot easier. Alternatively, you can use the stock bottle jack and turn it upside down in the wheel well to put some pressure on the UCA, that will make the install for the front a lot easier if you are having troubles taking the old coil over out, or putting the new one in.

Gotcha, I though you had to loosen the bolts in order to reset the bushings to the new ride height

 

[00_4runner]

Also if anyone has the measurements for the same lift that would be appreciated. Like I said before I'm looking for about 2.5 front and 3 rear for about 1/2 in of rake. Thanks!

 

[TheeMikeB]

Yup!

Gerdo is referring to the front UCA bolts. If you loosen the front UCA bolts it will make the install for the front go a lot easier. Alternatively, you can use the stock bottle jack and turn it upside down in the wheel well to put some pressure on the UCA, that will make the install for the front a lot easier if you are having troubles taking the old coil over out, or putting the new one in.

This is exactly right, this gained me almost an inch of travel when I installed my setup. I actually did both and front install was a snap.