First pics of the new 4runner

quicksilvr

quicksilvr

New member
No sliders on right now, and no spacers yet. I'm waiting to do front brakes, shocks and spacers all at the same time. We've gotten 6 more inches since I took these.


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Sexy new (slighty used) R1 rotors and Axxis pads...

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very nice!

I noticed something odd though...your bumpers are color keyed, but the plastic valence isn't. Don't they normally get keyed together? Or is that one of the Highlander features?
 
LINY4Runner said:
very nice!

I noticed something odd though...your bumpers are color keyed, but the plastic valence isn't. Don't they normally get keyed together? Or is that one of the Highlander features?
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Thanks for the comments guys. I'm trying to decide if I should keep the M/T's on the Crager's...or put them on the factory alloys.

I'm pretty sure all the Highlander models I've seen still have a gray lower valance. I think some of the later "Sport" model '01 and '02's had full painted bumpers. But none of the Highlander's did.


I just realized when I looked at the pictures that I didn't put the front skid back on after the oil change. Oops. :lol:
 
I'm really torn between leaving the M/T's on the Cragers, or switching them over to the factory alloys. I'll have to see what it looks like when it's clean. Since I've owned it, the cleanest it's been is what you see in the pictures, hehe. Too much winter going on to worry about being clean.
 
quicksilvr said:
I'm really torn between leaving the M/T's on the Cragers, or switching them over to the factory alloys. I'll have to see what it looks like when it's clean. Since I've owned it, the cleanest it's been is what you see in the pictures, hehe. Too much winter going on to worry about being clean.
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I'm an OEM wheel fan, myself...and even I like the Cragars...
 
Fireball said:
How much do those Cragars weigh?

I'm guessing they're about twice as heavy as the nice OEM alloys.
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You might be right. All I know is that that after moving all 4 Cragers with tires around the garage a couple times, when I took the first alloy wheel off the truck I was like, "holy cow these are light!" I shoulda weighed them. I still have to take wheels off for brakes, so I'll weigh them both then and compare.
 
broncosi said:
looking good but if your wheeling your truck wont your paint get destroyed without your mudflaps on??
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I'm in the process of trimming the rear flaps right now...I didn't like how long they were. Once they're shortened, they're going back on. The front flaps cannot be on the truck if the sliders are on. If I end up leaving the sliders off for an extended period of time, I'll put the fronts back on.

I have a little dilemma with the sliders. The Rocky Road style like mine are bolt on. They bolt to the frame AND through the pinch weld. Which causes alot of vibrations and just general NVH. Weld on sliders that only attach to the frame are a better option in my opinion...although you can't take them on and off easily.

I don't see any way around this extra NVH when fully installed, so I'm considering just bolting them to the pinch weld for all my general driving....and if I take an offroading trip, I'll put the frame bolts in. Suggestions?
 
quicksilvr said:
I have a little dilemma with the sliders. The Rocky Road style like mine are bolt on. They bolt to the frame AND through the pinch weld. Which causes alot of vibrations and just general NVH. Weld on sliders that only attach to the frame are a better option in my opinion...although you can't take them on and off easily.
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Why would you ever need to take them off? Mine are weld-on and I can't ever see a reason why I would need them off. You can get scab plates and just weld yours on.
 
p nut said:
Why would you ever need to take them off? Mine are weld-on and I can't ever see a reason why I would need them off. You can get scab plates and just weld yours on.
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I wish I could. I don't think I'd ever need to take them off....but because of their design, if I weld them onto the frame, they're still going to be making contact with the pinch weld, whether there are bolts through it or not. They sit much higher and tighter than most.


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Thread linkThread about rocky road super sliders
 
Well, if you weld it on, you can get it welded a little lower so it clears. Never seen a design like that before, though.
 
p nut said:
Why would you ever need to take them off? Mine are weld-on and I can't ever see a reason why I would need them off. You can get scab plates and just weld yours on.
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Being able to remove them is nice for several reasons like if you wanted to sell them,repaint or repair slider damage or any reason they might need to be removed.
My friend who is a frame and body guy recommended bolt-on for the reason if you do hit something hard it's better to have a give point since it's easier to fix a little rocker panel damage vs bending the frame with too solid of a weld on the slider.
 
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