First Use of "Kreen" In Engine Oil

[BamaDrewski]

I have been a big fan of Kano Labs and their "Aerokroil" product. When I called them to order a new supply (This stuff beats the pants off PB Blaster) they said they had a sale on "Kreen".

Kreen is supposed to be the ultimate "engine tonic". I splurged and went ahead and ordered some.

When the Aerokroil and Kreen arrived, I was due for my next oil change in a few hundred miles. I called the folks at Kano and asked if I could add the Kreen to the dirty oil to help clean-up the engine internals. They said "yes" and so I did. I put about 260 miles with the Kreen in the engine oil.

I drained the oil and Holy Smokes.....the stuff was black as tar. This "kreen" stuff is supposed to clean the engine and all the gunk out quickly. As I have always used Mobil 1, I thought it might not have much "gunk" to clean out. Boy was I wrong.....

I do not have sludge in my engine and I saw this when I changed the Valve Cover Gaskets. Regardless, this stuff cleaned out what carbon and varnish I had in the 5VZ FE.

I drained the oil over night, replaced with fresh Mobil 1. I have logged a good 300-400 miles since the new oil was added and my gas mileage has improved. I also seem to have more "pep" in the engine and with acceleration. Maybe it is the placebo effect but it is so significant, I doubt it.

As my rig has 254K miles on it, I figured why not try it? Kano Labs recommended running the other 16 ounces in the fuel but I have not tried that yet.

So far, my mileage is up about 2MPG per gallon on fill up. I know this is an aggressive cleaner because when I added the new oil, I could see where the Kreen had dissolved the muck under the oil filler cap. For me, this has worked well. I am a fan!!!

I know the thought of "dumping things into your engine" raises the hairs on many of our necks but for me, with the 254K on the engine, I figured what could it hurt. I have to say, I am glad I tried it.

Just waiting for Little Caesar to chime in on this.........LOL

 

[StreetCreeper]

With my high mileage truck and PO who never maintained it very well, I get nervous at the thought of putting an aggressive cleaner in my engine. I worry that too much crap will get dislodged and then block things up.

It would be just my luck to have an engine closing in on 400,000 miles and running great—then I go and kill it by trying to do something nice.

 

[BamaDrewski]

With my high mileage truck and PO who never maintained it very well, I get nervous at the thought of putting an aggressive cleaner in my engine. I worry that too much crap will get dislodged and then block things up.

It would be just my luck to have an engine closing in on 400,000 miles and running great—then I go and kill it by trying to do something nice.

I can understand that completely. For me, I have added a quart of MMO for several oil changes as this is considered to be a "slow clean" product. After three oil changes with MMO, I figured the more aggressive cleaner would really get down to the final clean. Seems like I was right as I have had no issues.

I think folks who try to "clean everything up at once" run the risk of clogging the oil pump/oil strainer. I have taken my time and so far, so good......knock on fake wood dash trim.....LOL

 

[2014 Warthog]

With my high mileage truck and PO who never maintained it very well, I get nervous at the thought of putting an aggressive cleaner in my engine. I worry that too much crap will get dislodged and then block things up.

It would be just my luck to have an engine closing in on 400,000 miles and running great—then I go and kill it by trying to do something nice.

This is somewhat true

It could clean out gunk that is actually sealing up things that have worn away slowly.

This was especially true with old carbs. Too much cleaner on them and they then leaked like a sieve, sucking air in from all kinds of places that it shouldn't once the gas varnish was removed. (For example the around the shaft of a butterfly valve in a worn throttle body)

 

[BamaDrewski]

This is somewhat true

It could clean out gunk that is actually sealing up things that have worn away slowly.

This was especially true with old carbs. Too much cleaner on them and they then leaked like a sieve, sucking air in from all kinds of places that it shouldn't once the gas varnish was removed. (For example the around the shaft of a butterfly valve in a worn throttle body)

I have always been somewhat perplexed with the concept that gunk and varnish help "seal up" worn out parts/areas in the engine. I understand the concept but on the other hand, I don't think a Swiss watch would necessarily work better with accumulated gunk in it. For me, if my engine has issues, I want to know. By cleaning it up internally, I think I am ahead of the game. Perhaps the gunk is sealing areas that would otherwise leak but on the same hand, it may be sealing up areas that shouldn't be sealed up up with gunk. I guess it is a big trade-off and gamble but so far, I have had positive results. Does that make sense?

 

[D Farms]

kroil is the best.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I agree with the OP, engine flush products that work aggressively and quickly do have benefits. When I got my 4Runner, the oil was very dark. Assuming the PO didn't change the oil much, my shop used an engine oil flush and it came out as black as night. A few months later I had the valve covers off for a tune-up and it was very clean inside with no leaks, it did its job well. That was at 190,000 miles.

Just be sure to use them as directed! If it says only idle it with the cleaner in for 10 minutes, don't think you're doing your engine a favor by running it for 20. That's where the problems start. Be smart and you can clean out a lot of sludge at once if it's new to you. I don't recommend doing it again in a short period though, better to switch to a synthetic or high-mileage oil and break down what's left over a slow period.

 

[LittleCaesar]

If your 4runner was burning oil something serious I'd advocate using Kreen. But since you have been using MMO regularly (which thins out the oil), if I were in your shoes just buy some LM, dump it in the crankcase, and see what it looks like 5000 miles down the road. This engine is easy (extremely) on oil.

I helped my brother do a piston soak on a 98 3.0l camry that he got for $100 with Kreen in 2011. It was drinking a quart of oil every 400 miles. After draining the oil with Kreen in it, putting in some cheap oil, doing another soak, then another cheap oil and drain, it then burned a quart every 4000 miles but the upper valve train sounded like a diesel until we gave tuned the valves correctly. Then the car got stolen, was used in a Dairy Queen robbery, then was crashed into a telephone pole. :mmph:

 

[gamefreakgc]

Then the car got stolen, was used in a Dairy Queen robbery

Man, some smart thieves. Everyone knows that Dairy Queen is LOADED with cash. I bet they made off with at least $100, that's enough meth for... not very long.

 

[2014 Warthog]

I have always been somewhat perplexed with the concept that gunk and varnish help "seal up" worn out parts/areas in the engine. I understand the concept but on the other hand, I don't think a Swiss watch would necessarily work better with accumulated gunk in it. For me, if my engine has issues, I want to know. By cleaning it up internally, I think I am ahead of the game. Perhaps the gunk is sealing areas that would otherwise leak but on the same hand, it may be sealing up areas that shouldn't be sealed up up with gunk. I guess it is a big trade-off and gamble but so far, I have had positive results. Does that make sense?

No that's totally right!

It is a bit of a gamble with an older engine of unknown care. If you DO do a deep engine clean, you just need to be ready for the possibility of immediately needing to replace oil seal(s) or other issues that then show up as problems that were being kept hidden.

Though the incidence of that is probably rather small. I've just run into the problem with similar things in old engines in the past...

 

[BamaDrewski]

No that's totally right!

It is a bit of a gamble with an older engine of unknown care. If you DO do a deep engine clean, you just need to be ready for the possibility of immediately needing to replace oil seal(s) or other issues that then show up as problems that were being kept hidden.

Though the incidence of that is probably rather small. I've just run into the problem with similar things in old engines in the past...

UPDATE: I used half of the can of kreen in the engine oil and drained it as mentioned in the original thread. (Oil came out like tar)

I just used the other half of the can (16 ounces) in the gas tank.

I can definitely tell a difference. I don't seem to be burning as much fuel, throttle response is better, engine "sounds" smoother and no leaks, drips or runs from anywhere on the engine. So far, I am PLEASED!

 

[T4R2014]

I can definitely tell a difference. I don't seem to be burning as much fuel, throttle response is better, engine "sounds" smoother and no leaks, drips or runs from anywhere on the engine. So far, I am PLEASED!

Isn't that what every product you've used so far has done? Your 5VZ better be one of the smoothest and most responsive ones around if I ever see it in person.

 

[BamaDrewski]

Isn't that what every product you've used so far has done? Your 5VZ better be one of the smoothest and most responsive ones around if I ever see it in person.

Its pretty silky. I can stand a nickel on edge and it doesnt fall iver while the engine is running. I think that is pretty smooth.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I am waiting for some Lucas Oil to be added.

In all seriousness pick up a can of BG MOA after an oil change and see what you think. My coworker has a daughter in college with a Jeep Liberty and swears the stuff helps the engine. But with it being a Jeep, most anything should.

 

[BamaDrewski]

I am waiting for some Lucas Oil to be added.

In all seriousness pick up a can of BG MOA after an oil change and see what you think. My coworker has a daughter in college with a Jeep Liberty and swears the stuff helps the engine. But with it being a Jeep, most anything should.

Funny you should mention the BG MOA. When I went to pick up a new TPS sensor a couple of weeks back at the Toyota dealership, they had cans of the stuff lined up on a shelf in the parts area. I asked the guy at the parts counter "what it was" and he said their mechanics swear by it. I had never heard of it before then and now again when you mentioned it.

 

[ThorInc]

Gonna bump this baby.....anyone know where to buy Kreen in Ontario, Canada?

 

[BamaDrewski]

Gonna bump this baby.....anyone know where to buy Kreen in Ontario, Canada?

Here in the USA, we have to buy direct from the manufacturer and I am assuming it is the same everywhere. It is not stocked in any retail store that I am aware of.

Their website is: Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

Check it out or call them. They have real people who answer the phone. Awesome products and awesome people working there.

 

[01thunder]

i've been using kroil for 22 plus years and nothing else. kreen, i didn't know they had. BG products i've used being a tech and can easily get it. they work. i use MOA and the gas treatment as well as the fuel injector system flush once a year.

 

[indawire]

Another Kroil fan

I've used it for years now to clean out gun barrels after a range session. Also the best stuff for stuck/rusted threads of any type.

 

[csp]

kreen, i didn't know they had.

Kano Labs has all kinds of different, legitimate chemicals for different uses. The flyers they send with orders remind me of stuff you saw in the early 70s in presentation.


BG has great stuff too! I love MOA and 44K.