Fitting 37’s on 3rd gen?

[Iron duke]

Okay, got new (to me) XD 18x9 rims 0 offset not sure about backspacing with bald nitto trail grapplers. Looking for new rubber and definitely want to go bigger than 33’s. I was looking at some awesome rigs with 37’s and would like to go that route or maybe 36’s if that’s a thing. I’ve read on some different threads about it, but it seems to just devolve into flame wars. I get it, I don’t need 37’s, I don’t think I need 35’s, but it looks so good. I don’t do too much driving, but it is my daily. I live in a place where there are no hills and the “off-roading” is powerline roads, mud pits, and construction sights. I have traveled a lot to off-road other places like windrock and hells revenge, but I take it easy on my rig. My question is what all do I need to accomplish this and what will break as a result of the tires? Lifted 3” front and 4” rear, fab bumpers front and back, and it’s a 5 speed. This is what I’ve gathered so far.

Parts for install:
37’s
UCA’s
1”-2” body lift
Crap ton of trimming
Re-gear (5.29’s right?)

Parts that will break:
Cv’s
Wheel bearings
Power steering
Tie rods

Let me know what I’m missing. TIA

 

[Bad Luck]

This build thread might be helpful to you: rkntoy's Oil Changes and Broken Things - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

 

[Devbot]

. I get it, I don’t need 37’s, I don’t think I need 35’s, but it looks so good. I don’t do too much driving, but it is my daily. I live in a place where there are no hills and the “off-roading” is powerline roads, mud pits, and construction sights

Whole lotta effort and money into being a mall crawler but that's just my opinion opcorn:
Fwiw I'm fairly certain I remember someone like ECGS or the like saying how are pinions really start to struggle when diving at 5.29 and greater or something like that. I can't remember exactly - it didn't pertain to me so I didn't pay much attention - but still something to look into I think
You're gonna have to tub the hell out of your firewalls, not just trim them

 

[Iron duke]

This build thread might be helpful to you: rkntoy's Oil Changes and Broken Things - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Thanks! From a breeze through of the thread it looks like very good info, I appreciate it.

Whole lotta effort and money into being a mall crawler but that's just my opinion opcorn:

And so it begins :target:. I know, Savannah Georgia doesn’t give you a chance to not be a mall crawler lol. I do go off-road often but nothing like what’s out west or in the north. I thought I might as well go big if I’m already having to spend the money on UCA’s and tires.

 

[Devbot]

And so it begins :target:. I know, Savannah Georgia doesn’t give you a chance to not be a mall crawler lol. I do go off-road often but nothing like what’s out west or in the north. I thought I might as well go big if I’m already having to spend the money on UCA’s and tires.

I'm just flipping shit, I'm the same way with my guns; if I want them a certain way then I'm gonna have them a certain way regardless of what it costs. Must've spent close to $3k building/converting my Saiga how I wanted it to be :flame:

 

[jkeith.w]

might as well get the Solo LCAs - move the tire forward 1" and help with firewall interference some.

 

[Iron duke]

might as well get the Solo LCAs - move the tire forward 1" and help with firewall interference some.

It says on the website that with a 35" tire it will need modification to fit...couldn't I crank on the caster with the some aftermarket UCA's? I'm all ears for less tubbing though don't get me wrong.

 

[jkeith.w]

It says on the website that with a 35" tire it will need modification to fit...couldn't I crank on the caster with the some aftermarket UCA's? I'm all ears for less tubbing though don't get me wrong.

the Solo LCAs move the LBJ forward 1", whereas aftermarket caster-correcting UCAs move the UBJ rearward - toward the firewall.

You can use SPC UCAs in the factory position (so, not toward the firewall) with the Solo LCAs and get the benefit of aftermarket UCAs on wheel travel while giving yourself a little more room on the firewall. You will still need to tub, though - both directions.

 

[theesotericone]

You will still need to tub, though - both directions.

Yep. You'll also rub the shit out of the frame at full lock. You'll also hit the inner fenders at ride height without at least a 1" BL. The wheels he's running are a 5" BS wheel. That's never gonna work even with a frame notch so 1.5" spaces would need to happen. I could go on but that's a fair bit of work already. I will leave this here for inspiration though. This was for 35's on 3.8 BS rims without a BL. lol

 

[Doc2012]

I’ve done it twice.

It’s not worth it; IMHO; unless you SAS.

You’re gonna tub the frame at full lock; at the least; unless you have massive offset wheels.


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[Iron duke]

I’ve done it twice.

It’s not worth it; IMHO; unless you SAS.

You’re gonna tub the frame at full lock; at the least; unless you have massive offset wheels.


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Why is it not worth it? I'm fine with putting in the work, that's not the part I'm scared of. I just don't want to put in the time and money and then it not be drivable realistically.

 

[Devbot]

I think it'd also behoove you to look into Solo's long travel CVs, I remember seeing them ages ago and being amazed by how stout they look. Interesting concept too, like a mini prop rod. They're incredibly expensive though, so just a warning. Maybe wait until snapping CVs becomes a frequent issue to shoot for them, or use the idea and fab something yourself

 

[Doc2012]

Why is it not worth it? I'm fine with putting in the work, that's not the part I'm scared of. I just don't want to put in the time and money and then it not be drivable realistically.

Because the stock IFS, while it can handle 37s; isn’t the ideal set up for 37s.

The up-travel is severely limited; the tire is going to hit the frame at full lock, unless massive spacers or offset is used; and the wheel well is not very ‘fitting’ for 37s.

A SAS with a decent set-up would take care of the issues.

Long travel would push the tire out; but then you have even more trimming from the apron/fender.

Again; IMHO; it’s not worth it.

I’m running 4.88s which is good for street/weekend wheeling; I’m at 2200 RPM at 70MPH (yes, it’s correct) with 37/12.50/17.


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[Iron duke]

Yep. You'll also rub the shit out of the frame at full lock. You'll also hit the inner fenders at ride height without at least a 1" BL. The wheels he's running are a 5" BS wheel. That's never gonna work even with a frame notch so 1.5" spaces would need to happen. I could go on but that's a fair bit of work already. I will leave this here for inspiration though. This was for 35's on 3.8 BS rims without a BL. lol

5" of BS? That means that if he has a 10" wide rim that's 0 offset. 9" rim is like 25.4mm positive offset, etc. For 37's doc is right, I would need a lot of negative offset to push the wheel out further from the frame. That may be where he went wrong, but not sure because he could've had a larger rim.

Because the stock IFS, while it can handle 37s; isn’t the ideal set up for 37s.

The up-travel is severely limited; the tire is going to hit the frame at full lock, unless massive spacers or offset is used; and the wheel well is not very ‘fitting’ for 37s.

A SAS with a decent set-up would take care of the issues.

Long travel would push the tire out; but then you have even more trimming from the apron/fender.

Again; IMHO; it’s not worth it.

I’m running 4.88s which is good for street/weekend wheeling; I’m at 2200 RPM at 70MPH (yes, it’s correct) with 37/12.50/17.


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Seems like it is just a lot of work trimming and tubbing and you have to get the right wheel and spacer setup. I'm fine with doing that, I just don't want it to drive like crap. As long as there is a reasonable way to not rub the frame while turning I think I'll be fine with the rest of it. You wouldn't know how much offset and wheel spacers I would have to use without LT or SAS would you?...if there can even be enough lol.

 

[RomanSchnobrich]

I'm on 33s and probably won't even ever go to 35s, so my input is limited. But from what I've seen, you'll likely have to move the battery as well. To do it right, it also seems like folks running tires that massive usually take out the fender/side supports and run simple tubing instead. Obviously I can't speak to the driveability at all.

 

[phattyduck]

I’m running 4.88s which is good for street/weekend wheeling; I’m at 2200 RPM at 70MPH (yes, it’s correct) with 37/12.50/17.

Mathematically, 4.88's on 37's is the same as 4.10's on the stock 30.6" tires. 5.29's would be better for low end power and crawl ratio.

My impression of tire sizes:
Stock = stock
Metric "32's" = fit with no mods other than a correct alignment
33's = hope you are comfortable using a hammer or have a body lift
35's = get out the grinder and welder and the pocketbook for gears/etc.

Also keep in mind that you start losing up travel and you only gain half of the tire diameter in clearance for each size increase...

-Charlie

 

[Iron duke]

Mathematically, 4.88's on 37's is the same as 4.10's on the stock 30.6" tires. 5.29's would be better for low end power and crawl ratio.

My impression of tire sizes:
Stock = stock
Metric "32's" = fit with no mods other than a correct alignment
33's = hope you are comfortable using a hammer or have a body lift
35's = get out the grinder and welder and the pocketbook for gears/etc.

Also keep in mind that you start losing up travel and you only gain half of the tire diameter in clearance for each size increase...

-Charlie

Why would I lose up travel? Couldn’t I just grind the body panels and tub the firewall to clear them at full flex?

On the subject of gears, what brand should I get if it makes a difference?

 

[T4topher]

Couple things I’ll add to keep in mind(some have been said already):
-ECGS won’t warranty their diffs above 35” tires.
-Going to want to replace/test your LBJs very often
-people have done it so it’s not impossible
-be prepared for an absolute ton of work getting them to fit (just did 35’s myself and I can see why most ppl stop at 35’s)
-highly recommend body lift 1-2”
-highly recommend wheel spacers

 

[Twisted Sid]

I say go to 39s. It's probably going to be a same amount of cutting, body work, and moving things at that point.

 

[Doc2012]

Why would I lose up travel? Couldn’t I just grind the body panels and tub the firewall to clear them at full flex?

On the subject of gears, what brand should I get if it makes a difference?

No.

And because of the Apron; unless you do a custom front end.


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