Fitting 37’s on 3rd gen?

[theesotericone]

-ECGS won’t warranty their diffs above 35” tires.

That's not exactly accurate. In there warranty policy it states they will only honor the warranty up to 35's. In reality they will honor it up to much larger. I know guys with 38's and 40's that have had ECGS warranty failures. And yes, both of them where honest about what size tires where on their rigs.

 

[rkntoy]

might as well get the Solo LCAs - move the tire forward 1" and help with firewall interference some.

This

And SPC uppers

 

[T4topher]

That's not exactly accurate. In there warranty policy it states they will only honor the warranty up to 35's. In reality they will honor it up to much larger. I know guys with 38's and 40's that have had ECGS warranty failures. And yes, both of them where honest about what size tires where on their rigs.

I guess that’s what I should’ve said, that it mentions it in the warranty*. I think it says it’s up to their discretion or something. Good to know though! Lol.

 

[Iron duke]

Couple things I’ll add to keep in mind(some have been said already):
-ECGS won’t warranty their diffs above 35” tires.
-Going to want to replace/test your LBJs very often
-people have done it so it’s not impossible
-be prepared for an absolute ton of work getting them to fit (just did 35’s myself and I can see why most ppl stop at 35’s)
-highly recommend body lift 1-2”
-highly recommend wheel spacers

Thanks for the info. I just replaced my lbj's 7500 miles ago and have a lifetime warranty on them so it gives me no excuse to let them get too far gone. Only a Autozone drive away.

 

[Iron duke]

No.

And because of the Apron; unless you do a custom front end.


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From the hub I'm gaining 1" of tire in the wheel well per perspective size. 33" to 35", and 35" to 37". It's not rubbing the apron on the 33's, so would'nt that be true of 37's with a 2" body lift?

 

[phattyduck]

From the hub I'm gaining 1" of tire in the wheel well per perspective size. 33" to 35", and 35" to 37". It's not rubbing the apron on the 33's, so would'nt that be true of 37's with a 2" body lift?

Because the tire also moves "backwards" with increased diameter - while the body only moves up.

-Charlie

 

[Inv4drZm]

I've fit 37's on mine but as far as I can tell its easier to fit them on a 4th gen. It survived the Rubicon and Blanca Peak. Didn't have to retub the firewall just some grinding and beating with my 1.5" body lift and a +2" LT kit with heimed UCA's adjusted all the way forward.

3rd gens probably have a weight and power advantage so as far as drivetrain strength and upgrading they might actually be easier to fit. The 8" rear diff might be strong enough.

 

[Romeo1]

I got nothing to add. I’m just here for the insanity. Can’t even fathom what 37” tires would be like……

 

[Greeny]

Do it, drive it, report back.

If you've got a grinder and a welder theres no reason it cant be done, just a matter of whether the pros actually outweigh the cons. You're introducing a lot more strain on a lot of parts, making the truck drive and handle worse everywhere, and you'd probably never even be able to take advantage of the bigger tires' capabilities off-road.

 

[RandyBobandy]

I really wouldn’t want to run 37s on autozone ball joints, even with a lifetime warranty there have been reports of aftermarket ball joints failing in as little as 10k miles. With how much it will cost for the tires and regear and all the work required a set of oem ball joints and bolts isn’t very expensive

 

[Doc2012]

From the hub I'm gaining 1" of tire in the wheel well per perspective size. 33" to 35", and 35" to 37". It's not rubbing the apron on the 33's, so would'nt that be true of 37's with a 2" body lift?

I suck at trying to type technical shit like this out; so forgive me if it sort of makes sense.

If you put a 1” BL on, and ran 33-35s, you basically moved the body back to ‘factory specs’ for the tire size.

If you slap a 2” BL on for 37s; same thing.

Now; the increased tire diameter needs some where to go on the up travel; which is going to be the fender/apron.

Yeah; you can do a ‘custom’ apron/apron chop; but with that comes custom brackets for all the stuff sitting on the apron.

Yeah. It can be done; but, again, IMHO, it’s not worth it.

Idk where you live; but if you’re in ENC or close, feel free to shoot me a PM and come by. I’ll show ya how bad it rubs; and even pull the front coil over out to show ya where ya’d need to trim/remove.


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[Iron duke]

It seems like 37’s just aren’t worth the time or money because of the ride and strain on the vehicle, especially a daily. Has anyone tried 36’s (315/70r18, 315/75r17)? At that point, it would just be to piss on guys with 35’s lol

 

[Iron duke]

I suck at trying to type technical shit like this out; so forgive me if it sort of makes sense.

If you put a 1” BL on, and ran 33-35s, you basically moved the body back to ‘factory specs’ for the tire size.

If you slap a 2” BL on for 37s; same thing.

Now; the increased tire diameter needs some where to go on the up travel; which is going to be the fender/apron.

Yeah; you can do a ‘custom’ apron/apron chop; but with that comes custom brackets for all the stuff sitting on the apron.

Yeah. It can be done; but, again, IMHO, it’s not worth it.

Idk where you live; but if you’re in ENC or close, feel free to shoot me a PM and come by. I’ll show ya how bad it rubs; and even pull the front coil over out to show ya where ya’d need to trim/remove.


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I forgot to think about the added diameter left to right instead of just up and down. I appreciate the offer, I live about 4 hours away so not too bad. Probably won’t go 37’s because everyone scared me out of it. Definitely 35’s maybe a bit larger.

I really wouldn’t want to run 37s on autozone ball joints, even with a lifetime warranty there have been reports of aftermarket ball joints failing in as little as 10k miles. With how much it will cost for the tires and regear and all the work required a set of oem ball joints and bolts isn’t very expensive

In my limited understanding of Toyota parts (I come from a background of Ford and Chevy my whole life) I thought Moog parts were great, so I bought their lbj’s from autozone. They cost me only 40 bucks less than oem for the pair and apparently Moog sucks for imports or oem Toyota is just way better. Either way, good point there.

 

[D1n13L]

Because the stock IFS, while it can handle 37s; isn’t the ideal set up for 37s.

The up-travel is severely limited; the tire is going to hit the frame at full lock, unless massive spacers or offset is used; and the wheel well is not very ‘fitting’ for 37s.

A SAS with a decent set-up would take care of the issues.

Long travel would push the tire out; but then you have even more trimming from the apron/fender.

Again; IMHO; it’s not worth it.

I’m running 4.88s which is good for street/weekend wheeling; I’m at 2200 RPM at 70MPH (yes, it’s correct) with 37/12.50/17.


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Hello, im new to this forum and t4r’s in general, i bought my 98 with 265/70/17s and obviously i have no issues they fit fine with extra space, the previous owner did a slight lift with what looks like bilstein 5100’s but i havent been able to rack mine up and check. I want to build mine as a comfortable daily driver that I can also take out on weekends, and offroading at a moments notice. I picked up some 17x9 methods and my buddy happened to have a set of 285/70/17 ko2’s. So thats about a 33? I dont mind cutting because im going to have to do it anyway. But what gas mileage should I expect? Id like to regear preemptively for better fuel economy especially but im also not sure what i should go with. What made you go with 4.88’s? Should I also regear to 4.88’s soon considering my rig will only get heavier from here on out with bumpers, winch and armor etc etc? I honestly dont think ill go with bigger tires unless i get another daily or if i go long travel in the long run.