Fixed... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

Update... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

Update 1:

Drove to church and back this morning without any issues. 14.1v. When I checked when I got home it was holding 13.6v at idle and throttle sitting in the driveway.

Just cranked it again and it was at 14.1v, then made a terrible noise so I shut it off. Had the wife restart it while I was looking at the belts and it made no noise, but the A/C compressor pulley had a pretty bad wobble to it.
The backside of that pulley is where all the melted plastic had been flung from.

I think that’s probably what was the initial cause of the fuse blowing. So it looks like I’ll be buying a new compressor unless the bearing is sold separately.

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You've likely started melting the magnet assembly. The bearing might still be
good. The clutch pack is available separately, ~$120 up at Rock Auto. That
saves you more expensive parts (assuming the system is cooling normally
otherwise) and a refrigerant recharge. Clutch is DIY.
 
Update... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

You've likely started melting the magnet assembly. The bearing might still be

good. The clutch pack is available separately, ~$120 up at Rock Auto. That

saves you more expensive parts (assuming the system is cooling normally

otherwise) and a refrigerant recharge. Clutch is DIY.



Thanks!

It’s cools just fine, but nowhere near as cold as it should be. I tried the auto parts store refrigerant refill last summer, but was unsuccessful. Followed the directions and the gauge showed no change and it didn’t get any colder.


Update 2:

Attempted to do a 30 min drive to the parkway for a hike and watched it go from 14.1-13.7v. Pulled over 10 min into the drive. Shut it off and restarted to see if it reset anything. Nothing. Dropped to 13.6v and drove back home. Went back up to 13.8v, but pulled in the driveway with 13.7v.

Just went to advance for a battery check out of the vehicle:

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That was done about 1.5 hours after parking it w/ 13.6v.

Bought a new battery and will have them test the alternator in the morning after a 30 min drive.
 
Update... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

Update 3:

I guess I’m just paranoid now. Haha

I was told 13.5-14 was a normal operating voltage range while driving.

New Autocraft Platinum AGM battery from Advance. Previous was an Autocraft Silver I was pretty happy with.

Test completed after a 10 min drive to my local Toyota dealer, 10 min inside, and 10 min drive to the Advance by my house. 14.2 when I left home and 13.9v when I shut it off in the Advance parking lot.

New battery and Alternator test results:

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He said everything looks good.
Loaded was with, running lights, HID fogs and HID high beams on plus A/C on COLD and full blast.


Do I install the new brushes that should be delivered today or leave it as is?


The A/C compressor pulley appears to only wobble when the A/C clutch is engaged.
 
Alternator voltage changes with temperature (batteries charge differently at different temps). Higher when colder (vehicle just started) and lower when warm/hot (after running or a hot day). 13.6 and above for most conditions (and above 14.0 when cool) is normal.

I don't see how the AC clutch going out could cause the gauge fuse problem. Fix it anyway though, of course! :biggrin1:

-Charlie
 
Alternator voltage changes with temperature (batteries charge differently at different temps). Higher when colder (vehicle just started) and lower when warm/hot (after running or a hot day). 13.6 and above for most conditions (and above 14.0 when cool) is normal.



I don't see how the AC clutch going out could cause the gauge fuse problem. Fix it anyway though, of course! :biggrin1:



-Charlie



Thanks, Charlie.

Makes sense. Drove 20 min to the airport and back home about 1.5hr later and seems to be running fine with voltage fluctuating between 13.6 and 14.2. I think the alternator is fine...

I bought a new drier and o-ring from the dealer this morning. Going to buy a new Denso compressor online soon. I figure if I just replace the clutch assembly I’ll realize halfway through the job there’s something wrong with the compressor and I don’t want to do the job twice. Lol
Going to replace the alternator brushes while I’m at it.
Will also look into doing the timing belt/water pump if I’m due for it again.
 
Update... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

Update 4:

Car sat from 3pm-10:30pm. I started it up and I then noticed the odometer was blank..

Blew the gauge fuse again. Ugh...
 
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Update... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

Update 5:

This morning the fuse blew again 5 min into the drive.

This afternoon it blew right after startup.

I tried a new fuse while it was running and it blew.

I tried removing the A.C. fuse in the engine fuse block, still blew the gauge fuse.

Tried shutting off the A/C right after cranking and that seemed to work.

This leads me to believe it is the A/C compressor/clutch thats somehow causing the fuse to blow.

The pulley/clutch is pretty loud now that the bearing is shot.

I ordered just about everything so when it arrives in a week I’ll get to it.

Ordered:
Compressor - 190
Condenser - 45
Drier - 10
Evaporator core - 100
Expansion valve - 15
Total: $360 for all new Denso from Rock Auto

Did I miss anything??

Figured I’d do it all instead of just the compressor.


I’ll just be driving around with no A/C till I can get it all done...
 
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Update 5:

I tried removing the A.C. fuse in the engine fuse block, still blew the gauge fuse.

Does the dash fuse still blow with the underhood as fuse removed?

If your dash fuse is still blowing with the engine bay ac fuse removed then the compressor is not your problem. With the engine bay ac fuse out your ac compressor cannot engage at all. You most likely have a wiring issue in your instrument panel wiring harness.
 
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Update 5: Did I miss anything??...

PAG 46 oil, look at FSM for the amount to add for the parts your changing.
The O-rings do not come with the parts you ordered such as condensor and drier connections,
best to replace all with new ones. not sure if Comp comes with them or not.
 
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Update... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

Does the dash fuse still blow with the underhood as fuse removed?

If your dash fuse is still blowing with the engine bay ac fuse removed then the compressor is not your problem. With the engine bay ac fuse out your ac compressor cannot engage at all. You most likely have a wiring issue in your instrument panel wiring harness.



Assuming the A.C. fuse is the A/C compressor fuse, yeah. I don’t recall if the A/C unit displayed anything or not though before it blew. It did make the awful bad bearing noise right after startup and blowing the fuse.

Drove 10 min this morning to work with the A/C still off without issue. I’m down to one 10a fuse left so I don’t want to test that A.C. fuse again until I make it home. Lol

I have a 3hr drive back home tonight so hopefully it’ll hold on until then!

Not sure what it could be in the cluster or wiring though. No recent changes, other than getting my seats redone.

Just seems like quite the coincidence the A/C went at the same time and they are somehow connected.


PAG 46 oil, look at FSM for the amount to add for the parts your changing.
The O-rings do not come with the parts you ordered such as condensor and drier connections,
best to replace all with new ones. not sure if Comp comes with them or not.


Thanks!

According to Rock Auto, the compressor comes with oil and o-rings, the drier comes with o-rings, and the expansion valve comes with o-rings. Do I need another o-ring or the ‘grommet’ for the condenser?


Update 6:

Drove 3hrs home with the A/C off without the fuse blowing. The pulley sounded awful when I parked it in the driveway. Lol

Looking like parts will be here tomorrow and the next day, but weather is going to suck and I gotta be back at work Sunday for the next 5 days. Hope the weather is decent for driving with the windows down till I can do it all the following week...
 
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Update... Gauge, AC Compressor, and Alternator Regulator Failure

The condensor I purchased from Rock did not come with O-ring nor did drier, went to auto parts store found one that worked.



Interesting, thanks.

I now have at least 3 o-rings for the 2 driers I’ve bought lol
Stopped by Toyota today to pick up the drier and o-ring. The aftermarket drier (cheaper option ordered through Toyota) came with 2 green o-rings. I bought a denso drier from Rock Auto after the fact that was out for delivery today, but never delivered... hopefully it gets delivered tomorrow.
While there, I ordered the grommet and other rubber things associated with the condenser just in case.

Update 7:

Drove all over town with the dog running errands today and no issues since turning the A/C off other than the ‘shot bearing’ noise.

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Cooper
 
New parts!

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Compressor appears to have come with all o-rings.

Condenser came with nothing

Drier came with two o-rings

Evaporator core came with two o-rings already attached

Expansion valve came with 4 green o-rings.


Anyone know why the new compressor clutch doesn’t look like the one I have? I’ve got a rounded ‘flywheel like’ cover with holes on the front.
Part number is correct. Might be a newer updated version from the one produced in ‘99? Or do I need to remove it and install it on the new one?

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Anyone know why the new compressor clutch doesn’t look like the one I have? I’ve got a rounded ‘flywheel like’ cover with holes on the front.
Part number is correct. Might be a newer updated version from the one produced in ‘99? Or do I need to remove it and install it on the new one?

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Looks like they just changed the style of mass attached to the front. You should probably just run the replacement as-is.

-Charlie
 
Looks like they just changed the style of mass attached to the front. You should probably just run the replacement as-is.



-Charlie



I think you’re probably right, Charlie.

Toyota called earlier and my extra grommets, whatever they are for the condenser are in. $5 worth of potential parts just in case.
Going to be a fun Friday!

They also replaced my remote battery for free last time. They give out free oil drain plug washers too!

It made another 3 hr drive to work on Saturday night without issue.
I can push the recycle / fresh air button and use the rear heater without issue. Lol. No defroster or A/C though.
I can probably even get the display and front heat back if I push auto, then push the A/C button real fast to turn the A/C off, but I don’t want to screw with it too much and it’s not cold in VA anymore. Lol
 
Got everything installed yesterday!

If you notice the temperature go up a couple degrees yesterday where you live around 4pm, sorry. Lol My contribution to global warming was quite the unexpected experience. Haha

Much more difficult than I was anticipating. Lol
Just need to order a new evaporator resistor and determine when I can have the system vacuumed and recharged.

The compressor bearing was non existent on the old one.


Can I safely turn on the A/C with no Freon in the lines, just the oil in the compressor, or should I wait until it’s been recharged?
I wanna know if the fuse pops, but not if it’ll screw something up...

As of lately I’ve apparently done something to the car gods.. a rock cracked the wife’s windshield today and the A/C in her car is now on the fritz. Lol
 
Dropped it off at the dealer near work to have the A/C system evacuated, leak tested, and recharged this morning. Hopefully they don’t find anything else wrong with it, or my work. Lol
Quoted me $298 to do the job...
 
Got everything installed yesterday!

If you notice the temperature go up a couple degrees yesterday where you live around 4pm, sorry. Lol My contribution to global warming was quite the unexpected experience.
Hopefully you didn't get any oil in your face...

The AC system probably won't even turn on with no refrigerant in there, so you wouldn't have been able to test.

Good luck!

-Charlie
 

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