Fixed the THUD. Full Write-Up.

Best of luck! Post up any questions and I'll try to help you out. Now, it may be a little tricky getting the new retainer ring/splines in, wiggle it in, dont smash it!
 
So if my mechanic didn't install the dust shield because the splines on the CV stuck out too far, is this a problem?? If so, how much of a problem?

I'm thinking it could cause the exposed splines to rust quicker and become more difficult to remove down the road.

Also, the truck drives and steers perfectly.


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So if my mechanic didn't install the dust shield because the splines on the CV stuck out too far, is this a problem?? If so, how much of a problem?

I'm thinking it could cause the exposed splines to rust quicker and become more difficult to remove down the road.

Also, the truck drives and steers perfectly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if the splines are exposed, im concerned that it isnt seated in the wheel hub properly.. How is the castle nut torqued with splines exposed?

Honestly, I would take it back and have them install the dust shield properly or figure out why the CV wont seat properly.
 
I'm glad my over due project has been delayed a few months...long enough for the most excellent write up I've seen on this subject. Well done, and thank you. You have done the 4th Gen crowd a great favor.


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When installing the new CV axles, is there any lubrication/grease needed on the CV axle itself prior to insertion to the front diff?

Any lubrication/grease needed on/in the front diff prior to the CV axle being inserted?

As mentioned by other members, thank you for a detailed write-up.
 
Best pictorial Ive seen in several weeks of researching this! Thanks OP! Getting ready to take this on myself on mine. Ive got a bad passenger side CV, but Im going to replace them both at the same time for several reasons:

-got good pricing from Advance due to Speed Perks, my credit union, and ebates (Ive read good and bad about CarQuest brand, but for the price even if I have to replace them once or twice, still a deal) Plus its a DD not a off roader

-changing differentials fluids anyway, so figured I could just drain the front to help save some mess, do both CVs, then refill and be good to go

-replacing worn shocks/struts on all 4 corners and doing new end bar links and sway bar bushings, so figured while all the wheels are off I might as well take a weekend on jack stands and get it all done at once
 
Trying to work up the sack to do this myself, just got the $1000 estimate from my local shop.

I'm new to the 4Runner world as I just purchased a 2007 SR5 v6. I've noticed that when I'm stopped at a light and then let my foot off the brake, it'll sometimes lurch into gear and make a little thud. I'm wondering if this is the same issue as described here?
 
I'm new to the 4Runner world as I just purchased a 2007 SR5 v6. I've noticed that when I'm stopped at a light and then let my foot off the brake, it'll sometimes lurch into gear and make a little thud. I'm wondering if this is the same issue as described here?

I had a sort of similar issue that would happen after stopping hard, then coming off the brake. It would do a crazy lurch.

2 quarts low on tranny fluid.
 
from what i have researched and seen - this is a common issue for the 4th gens at least. mine does it after a hard brake too. i was under the impression it had to do with needing to pump a pretty good amount (someone said >10 pumped) of moly grease into the slip yoke and it solved it.

now someone suggests the CV is broken in some way? can be an expensive fix for the most of us that dont want to tackle it. others saying its transmission fluid levels incorrect? pretty serious stuff. for the amount of people with this issue i am kind of skeptical that these two issues are the problem - it feels like a driveshaft issue...??
 
I am having the same hard shift after coming to a hard stop issue. It seems like more of a transmission shifting issue to me rather than a driveline slip yoke or CV issue. I just bought an '05 SR5 V6 that has 195K miles on it so I'm working out the bugs. This isn't the biggest of my issues right now. I need to figure out why the brake boost pump keeps cycling on every 10 seconds.

Since I'm here - This was a great write-up for CV replacement. Good pictures and good step-by-step instructions. I will be coming back when I need to make the repairs myself.
 
I had a sort of similar issue that would happen after stopping hard, then coming off the brake. It would do a crazy lurch.

2 quarts low on tranny fluid.

Your name is 4RunnerIdiot, but I'm clearly a bigger idiot...I can't find where to check the tranny fluid? Checked the manual but couldn't find it. Any tips?
 
CV Axle Replacement

That was a great write up on the CV axle replacement but what do you do about the abs ring? Do you reuse the original one or do you have to purchase one? If you have to put it on yourself then does it have to be pressed on? Thanks
 
That was a great write up on the CV axle replacement but what do you do about the abs ring? Do you reuse the original one or do you have to purchase one? If you have to put it on yourself then does it have to be pressed on? Thanks

Order the CV shaft WITHOUT THE ABS RING. Honestly, during the removal and installation of the shafts, I never saw or messed with the ABS ring. Just be careful you don't let the spindle drop or you may mess up the ABS wires/brake lines.
 
from what i have researched and seen - this is a common issue for the 4th gens at least. mine does it after a hard brake too. i was under the impression it had to do with needing to pump a pretty good amount (someone said >10 pumped) of moly grease into the slip yoke and it solved it.

now someone suggests the CV is broken in some way? can be an expensive fix for the most of us that dont want to tackle it. others saying its transmission fluid levels incorrect? pretty serious stuff. for the amount of people with this issue i am kind of skeptical that these two issues are the problem - it feels like a driveshaft issue...??

Mine didn't have a crazy lurch after a hard stop, but it would definitely thump after a hard stop. I also read about pumping lots of moly grease into the slip yoke. I tried it this weekend with no issues. At the rear of the driveshaft the shaft is a shiny metal. I pumped about 25 pumps of moly and the shiny portion of the shaft moved. I pumped a few more times to move it about a 1/2 inch. Haven't noticed any thumping since then, but I'll have to try a hard stop the next time I drive to be sure. Worst case, it didn't blow out the dust seals like someone else thought it would.
 
Hey all! Its been almost 2 years since I did this and everything is still holding up well! No issues with the CV shafts from RockAuto! The 4R has been on several wheeling trips, and some LONG drives without any issues.

Thanks again for the love and support everyone! The next big project I do, I'll definitely do a writeup!

-Seth
 

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