fj cruiser 6" install on a 4th gen.

basicly the lift allows you to fit 35's so that where you ground clearance comes from. the major thing is now you using the full travel of the suspension where as with a spacer lift your losing the downward travel because your begining to max out the travel of the control arm and ball joints. ask some guys with fj's or go on youtube they do alot of stuff offroad with these lifts.
 
basicly the lift allows you to fit 35's so that where you ground clearance comes from. the major thing is now you using the full travel of the suspension where as with a spacer lift your losing the downward travel because your begining to max out the travel of the control arm and ball joints. ask some guys with fj's or go on youtube they do alot of stuff offroad with these lifts.

Looks pretty usable esp. with 35s IMO. Like i said before, i thought you were just using a 6" spacer.. lol. Where in NJ are you? I'll be making a pines trip soon if you want to break it in
 
6"

im in galloway which is near stockton college usually im out in warren grove, chatsworth, whartons state forest. sad thing is once i finish this ill be able to enjoy it for maybe a few days because im having a 3rd shoulder surgery on wed. so i wont be able to drive it for a few weeks. im sure ill be out around dec/jan. hopefully by then ill have my 285's sold and my 35's on.
 
im in galloway which is near stockton college usually im out in warren grove, chatsworth, whartons state forest. sad thing is once i finish this ill be able to enjoy it for maybe a few days because im having a 3rd shoulder surgery on wed. so i wont be able to drive it for a few weeks. im sure ill be out around dec/jan. hopefully by then ill have my 285's sold and my 35's on.

if youre near stockton college contact [MENTION=61775]seanmullin[/MENTION] he has a lifted 4th gen
 
Its a drop bracket lift, guys. You're basically going for maximum height with minimal gain in ground clearance.



No one is doubting you or making it a pissing contest. They just don't know what a DB lift is.



You're thinking of Husky


Anywho, you should upgrade the shocks with these:

2007 - Current FJ Cruiser 6" - 7" Lift Adjustable Front Coil-over Shock Kit - ICON Vehicle Dynamics

i know what a db lift is, but how does it compensate for the extreme cv angles and tie rod angles? thats my question
 
i know what a db lift is, but how does it compensate for the extreme cv angles and tie rod angles? thats my question

I'm not quite sure how to describe it. [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] can probably do a better job at this, but...I think it just lowers all the front end suspension components while raising the body with the bracket. But adding this bracket is where the reduction in ground clearance comes from.
 
I'm not quite sure how to describe it. [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] can probably do a better job at this, but...I think it just lowers all the front end suspension components while raising the body with the bracket. But adding this bracket is where the reduction in ground clearance comes from.

ok thanks, starting to understand a little better
 
im in galloway which is near stockton college usually im out in warren grove, chatsworth, whartons state forest. sad thing is once i finish this ill be able to enjoy it for maybe a few days because im having a 3rd shoulder surgery on wed. so i wont be able to drive it for a few weeks. im sure ill be out around dec/jan. hopefully by then ill have my 285's sold and my 35's on.

Cool man, Let me know. I just had hand surgery - good luck with it.

if youre near stockton college contact [MENTION=61775]seanmullin[/MENTION] he has a lifted 4th gen

pm comin your way
 
I'm not quite sure how to describe it. [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] can probably do a better job at this, but...I think it just lowers all the front end suspension components while raising the body with the bracket. But adding this bracket is where the reduction in ground clearance comes from.

Basically all a DB (Drop Bracket) Lift is is a glorified subframe spacer. They install a Drop Bracket, which puts the Lower control arms lower than the original location, they then use taller spindles to achieve a lifting effect of the vehicle while retaining most of the components (usually extended shocks or adapters are installed as well) that are used in steering and such.

You tend to have little to no gain in ground clearance as the clearance is attained through the larger tires you can install. The kits themselves act more like body lifts than a suspension lift and are very dependent on tires to gain clearance. That being said, the suspension geometry is affected somewhat (usually more negatively than positively as I will explain in a bit) and the angles of the CVs become an issue. This can be corrected with things like Diff Drops (if I remember right), these are the most common lifts you see on Tacomas, F150's, GM Trucks, ect ect because they can jack a truck up 12+ inches and let you slap on 35's, 37's, ect on the truck and not have to worry too much about compression/flex rubbing.

A lot of people (including myself) tend to look down on them as "cheapo" (though to be honest some are more expensive than a suspension lift kit) lift option and don't consider them as capable off-road as some other options. The main reason for this because the suspension geometry change doesn't allow as much true compression and flex as say a suspension lift like OLW 2.5" does. This is because all the kit is designed to really do is increase the space between the upper and lower control arms to achieve a lifting affect, the lower and upper control arms are still the same length and the suspension for the most part will still bend and flex close to stock (I say close, because there's a bit more to the story than that...)

Take a look at a true Long Travel Suspension System, see that they give you new control arms among other parts, this is because to gain more travel and potentially more flex, you need to adjust the suspension geometry of the vehicle. Look at Baja Trucks, They have that insane lift mostly from the insanely non-factory suspension geometry they have that allows huge amounts of compression and flex. Even Rock Crawlers with SFA (Solid Front Axles) have a serious amount of suspension geometry modification to allow the insane amount of flex they use.

RC DB lift
Rough_Country_6in_FJ_Cruiser_Kit.jpg

Camburg's Long Travel Kit:
CAM-310020-KIT.jpg
 
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basicly the lift allows you to fit 35's so that where you ground clearance comes from. the major thing is now you using the full travel of the suspension where as with a spacer lift your losing the downward travel because your begining to max out the travel of the control arm and ball joints. ask some guys with fj's or go on youtube they do alot of stuff offroad with these lifts.

I see. Yeah I looked up the fj's and it looks pretty good. I dont think alot of them are running it at 6" though?

In terms of your description of spacer lifts, this is only true if you're running a top plate spacer. Running a stiffer coil or coil spacers just makes you sit higher in the travel, ie giving more up travel equal to the loss of down travel.

It's funny you're all about going higher. Lately I've been thinking about lowering mine down. Currently sitting at 3" front and 4.5" rear from stock on my 3rd gen. Lower rigs with lots of down travel are more capable IMO.
 
Basically all a DB (Drop Bracket) Lift is is a glorified subframe spacer. They install a Drop Bracket, which puts the Lower control arms lower than the original location, they then use taller spindles to achieve a lifting effect of the vehicle while retaining most of the components (usually extended shocks or adapters are installed as well) that are used in steering and such.

You tend to have little to no gain in ground clearance as the clearance is attained through the larger tires you can install. The kits themselves act more like body lifts than a suspension lift and are very dependent on tires to gain clearance. That being said, the suspension geometry is affected somewhat (usually more negatively than positively as I will explain in a bit) and the angles of the CVs become an issue. This can be corrected with things like Diff Drops (if I remember right), these are the most common lifts you see on Tacomas, F150's, GM Trucks, ect ect because they can jack a truck up 12+ inches and let you slap on 35's, 37's, ect on the truck and not have to worry too much about compression/flex rubbing.

A lot of people (including myself) tend to look down on them as "cheapo" (though to be honest some are more expensive than a suspension lift kit) lift option and don't consider them as capable off-road as some other options. The main reason for this because the suspension geometry change doesn't allow as much true compression and flex as say a suspension lift like OLW 2.5" does. This is because all the kit is designed to really do is increase the space between the upper and lower control arms to achieve a lifting affect, the lower and upper control arms are still the same length and the suspension for the most part will still bend and flex close to stock (I say close, because there's a bit more to the story than that...)

Take a look at a true Long Travel Suspension System, see that they give you new control arms among other parts, this is because to gain more travel and potentially more flex, you need to adjust the suspension geometry of the vehicle. Look at Baja Trucks, They have that insane lift mostly from the insanely non-factory suspension geometry they have that allows huge amounts of compression and flex. Even Rock Crawlers with SFA (Solid Front Axles) have a serious amount of suspension geometry modification to allow the insane amount of flex they use.

Knew you would explain it better!

This one was posted on TW awhile ago. While not a Toyota, and undoubtedly the most embarrassing example I could post, thanks to the color it does show how the lift is achieved. With the LCA's being at a lower point and such.

5epava6a.jpg
 
You didnt have to weld or anything? How long did it take you to put it on? Im ready to see some pics!!
 
6"

hey guys ill get some pics up as soon as i get these 2 seized bolts out of the lower control arms. it seems only both the rear ones seized pretty annoyed about it but once those are out and i can get em back in the truck ill post pics. the truck will still have its 285's on it so may look alil funny. also no alterations had to be made to make this lift fit and no welding was needed. if it wasnt for the stubborn lower control arms its very realistic to knock out the lift within the suggested time of 6hrs give or take depending how crudded up your truck is from wheeling and how many huddlers you run into. i think i may be having trouble because my truck sat for a solid 2.5 months after some wheeling and a half ass attempt at cleaning it and i only soaked all my bolts for a few hrs i was kinda eager to dig into it.
 
Knew you would explain it better!

This one was posted on TW awhile ago. While not a Toyota, and undoubtedly the most embarrassing example I could post, thanks to the color it does show how the lift is achieved. With the LCA's being at a lower point and such.

5epava6a.jpg

this chick lives by me lol shes my age.
 
I've seen that giant piece of shit raptor lol. I love raptors but that one is now useless. I prefer function over form
 

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