Fluids Change!
- Thread starter JohnsD90
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JohnsD90
New member
Yeah, i wanted opinions.
75W90 or 80W90. I recommend NON synthetic if your truck has higher mileage because it may clean out seals and start leaking. Grab extra oil, 15 quarts to be safe. You never know if you have to re-drain or need that extra.
I recently used synthetic for all my fluids (oil, diffs, tc) and my truck has 180,000 miles on it. No leaks yet. Maybe I'm lucky....
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
TIP: Especially on a older rig always remove the fill plug first! If it's stuck, you need a special tool or whatever and you open the drain before the fill plug you've just disabled the vehicle.
I find there's something magical about that sequence:artist: If you attempt to remove a fill plug with the drainplug still in place it always opens. If you remove a drainplug and then try to open a fill plug there's at least a 30% chance it'll be stuck. It's a Murphy's Law thing.
EDIT: Sorry John, I read the post but didn't focus on the poster. I was just preachin' to the choir:bash:
I find there's something magical about that sequence:artist: If you attempt to remove a fill plug with the drainplug still in place it always opens. If you remove a drainplug and then try to open a fill plug there's at least a 30% chance it'll be stuck. It's a Murphy's Law thing.
EDIT: Sorry John, I read the post but didn't focus on the poster. I was just preachin' to the choir:bash:
Last edited:
manhunter
New member
Go with synthetic, either Amsoil, Mobil-1, or Royal Purple in 85W-90 for front diff, TC, and rear diff. Your manual will tell you how many quarts per unit. Ditto on what CJ3Flyr said regarding the fill plugs. Especially on the front diff if it has the hex key plugs like mine. I removed the fill plug first as recommended, then stripped out the drain plug - which was ok since it still had the fluid in it and I was able to go somewhere and get it chiseled out. Had I removed the drain plug first, Murphy's law would have kicked in and it would have come out no problem, then I would have stripped out the fill plug, leaving me with a fluid-less front diff and no way to fill it.
raydouble
Banned
If I had your setup I'd use synthetic all the way around....don't really have a brand affiliation. Got Chevron synthetic 75w-90 in my diffs/transfer at the moment.
quicksilvr
New member
I'm going to use Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 for my t-case and diffs, and Amsoil ATF for my tranny. I've got 179K miles....and I'm not worried about leaks.
The fluid capacities listed in Toyota FSM's are off for some reason. This is the best resource I've found...
4Runners.org - Changing Your Front, Rear, Tranny & Transfer Case Fluids
The fluid capacities listed in Toyota FSM's are off for some reason. This is the best resource I've found...
4Runners.org - Changing Your Front, Rear, Tranny & Transfer Case Fluids
Ghostrider
Registered User
Just did the diff and xfer cases at Christmas. I do it every year so here here are some thoughts.
1. Go to the dealer and get new crush washers for all the plugs. Also look at the drain and fill plugs and replace any that look bad. The metal on the rear diff plugs is soft so they may get rounded edges
2. Go to Harbor Freight and get the suction gun to fill the cases. Costs less than ten bucks.
3. Get an old bucket to put the bottles in. I put the bottle I am filling from and an empty on in the bucket. When I pull the hose out I can stick it in the empty and avoid drips.
4. Center and rear are trivial. The front drain plug is an absolute pain unless you can get it off the ground to get leverage. I have no idea how that plug gets so tight every year. I torque it down and a year later it's about 100 ft. lbs.
5. I use Toyota re's on weight
6. No help on transmission. Mine is auto
1. Go to the dealer and get new crush washers for all the plugs. Also look at the drain and fill plugs and replace any that look bad. The metal on the rear diff plugs is soft so they may get rounded edges
2. Go to Harbor Freight and get the suction gun to fill the cases. Costs less than ten bucks.
3. Get an old bucket to put the bottles in. I put the bottle I am filling from and an empty on in the bucket. When I pull the hose out I can stick it in the empty and avoid drips.
4. Center and rear are trivial. The front drain plug is an absolute pain unless you can get it off the ground to get leverage. I have no idea how that plug gets so tight every year. I torque it down and a year later it's about 100 ft. lbs.
5. I use Toyota re's on weight
6. No help on transmission. Mine is auto
JohnsD90
New member
I already did the rear diff over the summer, i had to change it out for a different one, so i can just go to walmart and buy 75w-90 and put it in the front?
JohnsD90
New member
Nope dont be sorry, that was the most important piece of advice i have heard yet on this thread. I would be the person to drain it first then try to open the cap. Plus it will drain faster with the fill plug out.