Flywheel replacement brand

Chuckles89

New member
I just got my transmission pulled out to change my clutch and rear main seal. The flywheel is grooved, has about 50 cracks, and has heat marks.

Does anyone have a preferred brand of flywheel?

An OEM is $350 so that is out of the question. The Marlin Crawler one is $119 and a LUK is $55.

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] [MENTION=75445]4Running Daily[/MENTION] [MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION] do y'all have any personal experience with this?



Comments and suggestions are appreciated :)
 
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I just got my transmission pulled out to change my clutch and rear main seal. The flywheel is grooved, has about 50 cracks, and has heat marks.

Does anyone have a preferred brand of flywheel?

An OEM is $350 so that is out of the question. The Marlin Crawler one is $119 and a LUK is $55.

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] [MENTION=75445]4Running Daily[/MENTION] [MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION] do y'all have any personal experience with this?

Comments and suggestions are appreciated :)

I was in the same bind, cracked and scored. I had planned to have my NAPA guy refinish it, but it was beyond hope and I needed a flywheel fast. The NAPA guy was able to get a new one the next day for $85 w/no shipping cost so I went with it. It looked a perfect match, went in without a hitch, and has been working fine for a year and a half. I would get NAPA the next time. Like the man said, a flywheel is a flywheel.
 
I just got my transmission pulled out to change my clutch and rear main seal. The flywheel is grooved, has about 50 cracks, and has heat marks.

Does anyone have a preferred brand of flywheel?
Because I've only put one on the 4Runner so far I can't say I have a favorite. It was an Aisin because arthritic knees begged not to go any heavier. Marlin was also in the running because of other people's opinions back then.
I put in a cheap local clutch kit in my Bronco II, but only had it for another 50,000 miles after. It was nothing special, which isn't a bad thing.

The flywheel is bad enough it can't be resurfaced?
 
$350 is a pretty good deal for an OEM one, I paid a little less than that but not much and I get my parts just above cost. When I called Marlin about their flywheels they highly recommend I go with OEM when I asked why they told me they only made a flywheel so people could use them as a "one stop shop" it will work but they say OEM is smother engagement and better longevity, also that OEM is resurfacable and more heat resistant.

That may have changed. YMMV.

All flywheels may be created equal but some flywheels were created more equal than others.
 
Bummer. At least done right it's a job you shouldn't have to do again in a long long while. :)
 
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I looked at LUK reviews this morning and they are terrible. The complaints consist of the starter not meshing with the teeth correctly.

I'm going to buy a NAPA one. Thanks everyone!
 
$350 is a pretty good deal for an OEM one, I paid a little less than that but not much and I get my parts just above cost. When I called Marlin about their flywheels they highly recommend I go with OEM when I asked why they told me they only made a flywheel so people could use them as a "one stop shop" it will work but they say OEM is smother engagement and better longevity, also that OEM is resurfacable and more heat resistant.

That may have changed. YMMV.

All flywheels may be created equal but some flywheels were created more equal than others.

At $350 for OEM, who cares if it is resurfaceable? I can do three clutches with a $85 NAPA f/w new and have $ left over. And so far, together with the AISIN clutch, it is as smooth as the truck was Day 1. I can't see spending that. If it does not outlive the clutch, then I've made a mistake. Time will tell.
 
I opened up my NAPA flywheel and the package is LUK! It better be a different design than the $50 LUK branded one or I'm going to be mad.

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Here's my old one so you can see how bad it is...
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I opened up my NAPA flywheel and the package is LUK! It better be a different design than the $50 LUK branded one or I'm going to be mad.


Here's my old one so you can see how bad it is...

Well, I got mine in Nov. 2013, and it did not say LUK. Hope it works out.
 
Well, after driving it for a few days, the flywheel is crap. About 5% of the time I go to start it, the starter doesn't mesh with the teeth on the flywheel...
 
Well, after driving it for a few days, the flywheel is crap. About 5% of the time I go to start it, the starter doesn't mesh with the teeth on the flywheel...

This has been my nightmare everyday for about a year since I had a local shop replaced my clutch, flywheel and rear main seal. I've been trying to get the shop to warranty their work.
 
This has been my nightmare everyday for about a year since I had a local shop replaced my clutch, flywheel and rear main seal. I've been trying to get the shop to warranty their work.

Have you had any other problems like starter teeth breaking? Apparently the LUK flywheel has a terrible design flaw.
 
Was the transmission abused or driven improperly? I'm curious how cracks develop like that.

It's also surprising that an aftermarket manufacturer could screw up the flywheel design. I guess a flywheel isn't just a flywheel. Just like rotors, the metallurgy and heat treatment can affect the long term performance of the part. But to completely screw up the teeth design is on a whole new level.
 
Was the transmission abused or driven improperly? I'm curious how cracks develop like that.

Not with me, but I've only had it since October 2014 and it has 264k miles.

It's also surprising that an aftermarket manufacturer could screw up the flywheel design. I guess a flywheel isn't just a flywheel. Just like rotors, the metallurgy and heat treatment can affect the long term performance of the part. But to completely screw up the teeth design is on a whole new level.

Good 'ol Chinese crap!
 

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