Folks with 4.30 or 4.10 Gears running 33" Tires. Fuel economy?

Supercharged 3.4
4.10s
255/85/16
City only 12-14
Hwy 55-70mph =18mpg
Interstate 70-85mph= 16-17

I used to work in a differential shop part-time when things got slow, and every graph I ever saw said gearing lower meant LESS miles per gallon.
Not to mention re-gearing messes up your speedometer WAY more than a few tire sizes.
If you want the power/slower crawl ratio, GREAT! But dont do it for fuel milage gains. Youll be pissed.
 
Supercharged 3.4
4.10s
255/85/16
City only 12-14
Hwy 55-70mph =18mpg
Interstate 70-85mph= 16-17

I used to work in a differential shop part-time when things got slow, and every graph I ever saw said gearing lower meant LESS miles per gallon.
Not to mention re-gearing messes up your speedometer WAY more than a few tire sizes.
If you want the power/slower crawl ratio, GREAT! But dont do it for fuel milage gains. Youll be pissed.

not if its geared correctly, and back to stock. which, can sometimes be impossible, depending on tire size and gearing options. but you can usually get pretty damn close.

and as said above, its best to go just a bit lower than actually needed, if you cant get it exact.
 
Supercharged 3.4
4.10s
255/85/16
City only 12-14
Hwy 55-70mph =18mpg
Interstate 70-85mph= 16-17

I used to work in a differential shop part-time when things got slow, and every graph I ever saw said gearing lower meant LESS miles per gallon.
Not to mention re-gearing messes up your speedometer WAY more than a few tire sizes.
If you want the power/slower crawl ratio, GREAT! But dont do it for fuel milage gains. Youll be pissed.

Regearing would actually bring my speedometer closer to stock. And I've heard of mileage going up after gearing lower, although I don't know if that would be the case if you're only running 33s.
 
not if its geared correctly, and back to stock. which, can sometimes be impossible, depending on tire size and gearing options. but you can usually get pretty damn close.

and as said above, its best to go just a bit lower than actually needed, if you cant get it exact.

No, I get that it can be close to stock speedo wise and power wise. But to say a modded rig with more rolling weight and resistance on the road will return to stock mileage doesnt make any sense to me at all, and I can say Ive never seen it happen. Its definitely worth doing, but a lot of cash and labor for mileage sake, ALONE (I think itll be a major disappointment).

Edit:
and I get the lower gearing=more rpms. more distance traveled as registered by the computer...
Just like bigger tires=less rpms. less distance... less mpg


relatively same amount of fuel burned over the same distance? IMO? pretty much.
Do it for the power and crawl ratio
 
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Regearing would actually bring my speedometer closer to stock. And I've heard of mileage going up after gearing lower, although I don't know if that would be the case if you're only running 33s.
yes, I would say that is usually the case. but a lot of it depends on how its driven.



No, I get that it can be close to stock speedo wise and power wise. But to say a modded rig with more rolling weight and resistance on the road will return to stock mileage doesnt make any sense to me at all, and I can say Ive never seen it happen. Its definitely worth doing, but a lot of cash and labor for mileage sake, ALONE (I think itll be a major disappointment).

yes, i can understand that.

but, gas is expensive. if i knew i could spend a few thousand NOW and bring the mileage back up a bit, i would, and HAVE. it would save me money EVERY time i drove after that. and assuming you keep the vehicle for any kind of time you'll save more than the new gears cost...
not to mention its easier on the engine. no more struggling for anything, it will be working as designed.


my recently retired DD on 35's was still able to get 20-21mpg, with 5.29's. that's not too shabby.
 
Figure I'll bump this up instead of making a new thread.

I now have access to 4.30's front and rear with elocker for free... You guys think it's worth my time to swap them out?
 
FWIW Im consistently getting 17.5-18 mpg with 4.10's and 33" MT's with a 5 speed. On road, I'm happy with the overall drivability. Offroad, the gearing totally sucks and is the #1 complaint I have with my rig. Im looking into a dual case setup or going to 4.88's or 5.29's in the diffs but Im worried the on road drivability will suffer with the later two options.
 
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FWIW Im consistently getting 17.5-18 mpg with 4.10's and 33" MT's with a 5 speed. On road, I'm happy with the overall drivability. Offroad, the gearing totally sucks and is the #1 complaint I have with my rig. Im looking into a dual case setup or going to 4.88's or 5.29's in the diffs but Im worried the on road drivability will suffer with the later two options.

With Guard Dogs too... Interesting.
 

Year: 1999
Tire Size: 285/70/17
Gears: 4.10
MPG City: 14-15
MPG Hwy: 15-17
[/QUOTE]

heres approximately what your adjusted mpg is. btw you have a supercharger, and if you want to get better mpg disengage the ect power, it exacerbates the gear hunting on the highway.

2002
tire size: 316/75r16
gear ratio 3.90
so far avg mpg: 15
 
Year: 1997
Drivetrain: 5VZ-FE/A340F
Mileage 177,500 Miles
Tire Size: 285/75/16
Gears: 4.30
Combined MPG: 15 (adjusted for tire difference)

Contrary to what my Fuelly Signature is displaying (i haven't owned the 'Runner long enough to show an accurate/current MPG), I've been getting about 15MPG combined on my last 4 tanks or so.

I've read threads that talk about similar rigs doing "Gear Hunting" when getting to anything bigger than a mild incline..I have not suffered this at all with the 4:30 gearing. Dunno how that effects MPG, but I just thought I'd make a note of it.

I like my Tire-Size/Gearing combo, seems to work well for me.
 
so how many folks run the 285's for a little more ground clearance and how many just for the look? :noidea:
 
I'm on 32's with 4.10s but I'm averaging 15.8 hand calculated running upwards of 80mph in 3rd gear. OD is useless so I keep it locked out.
 
so how many folks run the 285's for a little more ground clearance and how many just for the look? :noidea:

I run them for both reasons?

Also, FYI, the "285" is actually a measurement of Tire Width in milimeters. (a "285" is a 11.22" wide tire)

..but yes, the "285" does factor into the tire height via the aspect ratio (the second set of numbers in a tire size). So a 285/75 means that the sidewall height is 75% of the width measurement. The sidewall of a 285/75 is 215.75 mm (8.42 inches).

8.42" (x2) + 16" wheel = a 32.84" tall wheel/tire combo

So someone running a 255/80 is actually running a 32" tall wheel/tire combo.
And someone running a 265/75 is actually running a 31.5" tall wheel/tire combo.

Just throwing that out there because I get slightly irked when someone uses just the 285 measurement to describe tire height.
 
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1997
4.10's I believe (ltd no e locker)
285/70/17 trail graps
Hwy: between 14-16
City: around 13

Haven't calculated it to account for the speedo being off tho.

Last tank I drove with ect turned on for mostly hwy commuting to work and averaged 15.8. (Again without factoring in the off speedo)
 
255/80/17 (33ish) cooper stmaxx. not driving like a dick i can get at least 18.5 highway, maybe 14 city with 4.10s,
but those hills in colorado...:cry2:
 
I have 285/75/16 tires
4.10 gears
Auto trans
75% city as my DD
 

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I now have access to 4.30's front and rear with elocker for free... You guys think it's worth my time to swap them out?

Did you end up going through with the 4.30's? I have zero experience with regearing so don't know how involved it is but if I had the opportunity for 4.30's for cheap & especially for free, I would go for it. I just DD mine now so don't notice a huge power loss & little to no change in mpg's moving from 265/75/16 to 285/75/16 but wouldn't mind any additional power. I'd like to start test fitting my way up to 315s so regearing is something I should probably start looking into in more depth.
 

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