For those who have done the CS-144 Upgrade

[nc-grayson]

How did you run your 3 groove belt on the 5 groove pulley? I did this mod about 6-9 months ago and all has been well since (I think).

However, looking at [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION]'s build thread 2.0, He ran his belt like this : http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-2002-sport-ed-version-2-0-a.html#post2011005
-------------- open
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XXXXXXXXX belt
XXXXXXXXX belt
XXXXXXXXX belt

And it looks like [MENTION=76419]Doc2012[/MENTION] ran his like this : http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/135318-docs-cs144-alternator-upgrade.html
-------------- open
XXXXXXXXX belt
XXXXXXXXX belt
XXXXXXXXX belt
-------------- open

When I did my install, I ran my belt like this guy http://www.ttora.com/forum/8-interi...44170-alternator-swap-3-4-tech-thread.htmldid on TTORA :
XXXXXXXXX belt
XXXXXXXXX belt
XXXXXXXXX belt
-------------- open
-------------- open

Not sure if there is a right way to route the belt, a wrong way, or if it even matters at all. Earlier, I said I think everything is ok since install because I just dont drive my truck enough to know for certain. I might have 500 miles on it since the upgrade. I've been doing brake work for the past week or so, in and out of the truck, and have a dead battery this am. I honestly could have just left the doors open for too long, but I feel like my battery shouldn't be dead as quickly as it died, I know the lights in truck were off, but the doors were open for a while.

FWIW I installed a brand new Autocraft Platinum AGM AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 24F, 710 CCA 24F-AGM: Advance Auto Parts on May 3rd 2015, and the Brand new Alternator installed May 25th 2015.

So am I just not diving enough to keep the system charged?
Has my belt routing on my alternator caused it not to charge my battery sufficiently?
Or did I just leave my doors open long enough for the red light on the dash to flash and drain it dead?


Does the belt routing make any difference?

TIA

-Grayson

 

[97Run-Man]

The belt routing will not make a difference if the belt is in line with the other pulley. When it comes to how you route it you need to make sure that the belt is in line with the other pulley's. If your belt isn't lined up correctly it could slip, which could cause you not to be charging, or the worse thing, it would start to rub and fray. This would cause the belt to break and no alternator power at all.
Since you have to add shims with this mod its possible that each of you add slightly slightly more or less to your shims which would make the pulley line up differently from each other.
If you drive short distances you aren't allowing the battery to charge all the way, plus the computers and stereo still draw power no matter what (small amounts), and over time that can and will draw the battery down, both of those things combined will lead to a dead battery.
Moral: Make sure the belt is on the grooves that make it aligned with the crank pulley.

 

[nc-grayson]

Thanks Miguel, that's pretty much what I was thinking I just needed to hear it from somebody else.

I goofed, by my maintenance log, it's been about 2,000 miles since the battery and alternator upgrade....I guess I drive more than I remember.

Before I posted this thread, I definitely looked into the health of the belt, and it is still on the grooves, aligned just right with the crank pulley, and no fraying or rubbing.

Moral of My Story: Stop Overthinking.

 

[4-Ripcord]

When I installed the alternator, of the 3 positions, the setup I used had the straightest belt. Straightest meaning most in line with the other pulleys.