Found 99 Limited w/ elocker in scrap yard - need some advice

wardriver

wardriver

New member
So yesterday afternoon I found a nice 99 Limited (not highlander) that was sandwiched in a wreck. Hit front and rear. But it has the e-locker and I'm certain I can get it for a very very low cost. I've got the time to take off work and I could use a little extra cash, so I think I'll head over there tomorrow and pull it so I can sell it.

I was thinking about just pulling the 3rd member, but now I'm wondering if I should pull the whole axle housing, minus axle shafts etc. I'm also going to pull the factory wiring harness past the for the locker, locker dash switch and perhaps the pigtail that connects the locker to the ECU.

If I have time I'll pull the center console and paring brake assembly for the cup holder mod.

So - axle housing or just the 3rd member? Anything else I should pull?
 
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You need to pull everything out. I got into a car accident and place the wrong rear diff and had trouble for a whole year. It ended up costing me a whole bunch because I had to replace the diff the housing the axle and some otHer stuff. :gun6: the accident was really nothing I just got pushed to a curb from my tire but it bent my axle..
 
wardriver said:
So yesterday afternoon I found a nice 99 Limited (not highlander) that was sandwiched in a wreck. Hit front and rear. But it has the e-locker and I'm certain I can get it for a very very low cost. I've got the time to take off work and I could use a little extra cash, so I think I'll head over there tomorrow and pull it so I can sell it.

I was thinking about just pulling the 3rd member, but now I'm wondering if I should pull the whole axle housing, minus axle shafts etc. I'm also going to pull the factory wiring harness past the for the locker, locker dash switch and perhaps the pigtail that connects the locker to the ECU.

If I have time I'll pull the center console and paring brake assembly for the cup holder mod.

So - axle housing or just the 3rd member? Anything else I should pull?
Click to expand...
Funny you posted this - I found the same near me (at least I'm pretty sure it has the locker, gotta go back and check) and I've been wondering how to go about moving it over to my truck. So I need the whole axle without shafts, good to know. How difficult is it to figure out what parts of the wiring I need? Does anyone have any diagrams and/or write-ups I can review?
 
lpittman said:
Does anyone have any diagrams and/or write-ups I can review?
Click to expand...

I found a few earlier - check these links below. If you want to install a factory elocker in a non elocker housing it will have to be modified (notch cut and stud tapped in) As for the electrical I found out some people like to swap over the ECM. The other option is to build a dual relay system to operate the locker.

Hope it helps.

WD

Outdoor Recreation Network - Off-Highway, Jeep, & 4x4 Fun


Retrofit Electric Locker
 
Junkyards are not stupid, even regular diffs won't go cheap, if they notices its locking i doubt it will even be worth your time to take it out, and sell it. If you wanted it for personal reasons then yeah it may save you a few bucks, but you gotta take the housing too or else it needs to be modified to accept the diff.
 
JohnsD90 said:
Junkyards are not stupid, even regular diffs won't go cheap, if they notices its locking i doubt it will even be worth your time to take it out, and sell it. If you wanted it for personal reasons then yeah it may save you a few bucks, but you gotta take the housing too or else it needs to be modified to accept the diff.
Click to expand...


John - how much would be too much to pay if you were in my shoes?
 
wardriver said:
John - how much would be too much to pay if you were in my shoes?
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I paid $225 shipped for just a diff from a salvage yard a few years back.

I think if you can get the housing with the diff for like $300, then i think you are doing good. With plenty of room for profit.

I think it may be smarter if you buy the switch in the dash separately maybe from the dealer, because if they don't know its a locker then you will be able to get the whole thing cheaper.

But i would also say for you to do is get the front diff as unless the truck is a 5 speed the 4.30 gear ratio of an automatic e-locked truck won't work in any non-locked truck as 4.30 i believe was e-locked automatic only where as the 4.10 e-locked of the 5 speed is a much easier swap to other 4runners as 4.10 is probably the most common ratio offered in the 3rd gens and they were offered in the non locked models.
 
JohnsD90 said:
et the front diff as unless the truck is a 5 speed the 4.30 gear ratio of an automatic e-locked truck won't work in any non-locked truck as 4.30
Click to expand...

Good call - I forgot that they might be different. I've got a 5sp locked from the factory so I've not had to deal with it.

Fortunately this yard that I visit has posted prices on each item they sell. All are fairly low. I think an engine is around $300 and a transmission is under $100. I should have no issues whatsoever getting the axle housing and 3rd member or well under $200.
 
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