A couple of hundred tops. And, that's after ensuring there's no bad rust or damage.
Frame has had it
- Thread starter NEKExplorer
- Start date
A couple of hundred tops. And, that's after ensuring there's no bad rust or damage.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Can't tell much from the pics. A link to the original would be better--the one posted is very small. Yours looks more like the one I threw away than the one I paid for. As I said, I just paid $500 for one in nicer shape and with both control arms in place in front and a perfect hitch in back. I will say the surface rust on mine--there was less of it--cleaned up very nicely and looks perfect after POR15-ing the whole thing.
The key thing you want to check is how solid it is on the bottom of the rail inside the big control arm bracket in the back. This is hard to check with the frame on the ground, but it is worth jacking it up a foot or so and then banging right there with a hammer and big screwdriver or rod up through the center of the bracket. They rust from the inside out, if mine is typical, so just a look can be deceiving. I would not pay a dime without doing this test. Mine was on the body still when I bought it, on blocks with no diff, so it was easy for me to do this.
My frame had sat there since 2011, so they don't move that fast, at least in NJ. Offer him 5 bills cash and watch him take it.
The key thing you want to check is how solid it is on the bottom of the rail inside the big control arm bracket in the back. This is hard to check with the frame on the ground, but it is worth jacking it up a foot or so and then banging right there with a hammer and big screwdriver or rod up through the center of the bracket. They rust from the inside out, if mine is typical, so just a look can be deceiving. I would not pay a dime without doing this test. Mine was on the body still when I bought it, on blocks with no diff, so it was easy for me to do this.
My frame had sat there since 2011, so they don't move that fast, at least in NJ. Offer him 5 bills cash and watch him take it.
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NEKExplorer
New member
Yeah- he is definitely asking too much. However, good frames are a little harder to come by up here in New England so anything is probably going to be a little pricier. Thank you for the advice about where to bang and poke. I think I will give it a looking over, and like you say $500 tops. It will cost me probably around $150 to get it home and then another $200 or so in POR-15 and paint, and that assumes its even worth using.
Best wishes all
Best wishes all
Crowcifier6
New member
Is that the one in RI? I could scope it out for you if you want.....
phattyduck
Elite Member
Somebody needs to make a business of getting frames from the Southwest and bringing them to the Northeast... You can probably get truly rust free frames around here all day for $100... (the frame on my parts truck was perfect until I hacked off the trans crossmember - and I got the whole truck minus an engine for $300)
-Charlie
-Charlie
TheDurk
Elite Member
It's all because of shipping costs and demand. The only good reason to buy a frame is rust-out. If you are in a place with no rust-outs, there is no demand for loose frames, so the price is scrap value plus a margin. Shipping on these things is a bear. I had to pay $100 just to deliver it locally (about 20 miles.)
I hate to think what it would cost to ship one from the SW, even if you did 10 or 20 at a time.
NEKExplorer
New member
Yes it is currently on Rhode Island craigslist:
3rd gen 4Runner Frame
I would certainly be interested in an eyewitness opinion on the frame if you wanted to give one. He would still have to come down a fair amount though.
3rd gen 4Runner Frame
I would certainly be interested in an eyewitness opinion on the frame if you wanted to give one. He would still have to come down a fair amount though.
Crowcifier6
New member
Ill see if I can get ahold of him this weekend, I drive by Narragansett daily.
Scramble
New member
Definitely check the inside of the frame on both sides in front of where they rise up over the rear axle. That were the dirt & moisture gets hung up. I've also drilled and extra 1/2" drain hole right under that spot on both sides. I've been hitting the inside of my frame with the pressure washer every few weeks since May & I'm still getting rust flakes out. Now that the Summer humidity is almost gone for good I'll be hitting it with Eastwoods Internal Frame Coating soon.
NEKExplorer
New member
Many thanks to Crowcifier6 for checking out the frame for me and getting some better pics before I make the four and a half hour drive to see this thing. He took the pic I have attached/inserted here. I was wondering if anybody could help me with what I am seeing there on top of where the driver's side front strut would attach to the frame. Is that like 1/8" of rusted frame peeling off the top of that or is that the remains of a gasket or bushing or something? It kind of looks like something a little more consequential than surface rust to me. What do you guys think?
-Thanks
-Thanks
Attachments
maverickhawk
Member
If you would be willing to drive a little & help me put the rear end back on, I have good frame I would let go for a couple hundred. Just bring a tow bar & lights. These frames are big & HEAVY. This way you should be able to get one home for less than 5 or 6 hundred.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I know what that is. It's the bracket for the ABS wire that is clipped to the strut tower. It's a steel plate. If the pic was better you could see the front edge, but the rust all blends together. Take a look at my old frame and you can see it:
So I'd say it's probably ok. You're gonna have fun cleaning that one up. The key is that area under the control arm brackets. Good luck. I'm here to help if you need it (over the web). I was only in the NEK once, but I had a great time. My college roommate was from Hardwick, VT and they had a hunting camp up there. Too bad it's so far from NJ.
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mckennar
New member
TheDurk nailed it, it's just a bracket. I'd be slightly more concerned about the fact that TheDurk's old frame looks better than this, though.
But the real test is the rear lower control arm bracket area on the frame. How do they look (both sides)?
Crowcifier6
New member
Didn't really go over the whole thing with a fine tooth comb when I checked it out for him... to me it looked workable, don't know OP's expectations... I am no expert.
Thanks to NEKExplorer for the gift package for scoping out the frame....that was fast.
Thanks to NEKExplorer for the gift package for scoping out the frame....that was fast.
This one might be worth looking at, though it is a bit of a hump from where you are...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2474226-post16923.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2474226-post16923.html
