What did you end up using? Any success? I'm going to be por15ing my frame and wanted to paint over it with something that looked oem as well
Frame Paint?
- Thread starter jkeith.w
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What did you end up using? Any success? I'm going to be por15ing my frame and wanted to paint over it with something that looked oem as well
Crazy09sage
New member
I have a can or rustoleum semi-gloss on hand to touch up spots that start to show through. It might stand out at first but once you get road spray and mud on it it all looks the same. I actually liked the look of the semi-gloss when I did the whole underside a couple years back to slow the rust cancer.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
I've been using SEM e-z coat on the Taco frame - it's not bad, but not the correct sheen, either. Closer than anything else I've found so far, though.
Better paint than Rustoleum (I like Rustoleum and use it a lot, but this is superior in spray, flatness, and sheen)
brillo_76
Elite Member
On frame paint. It really depends on the environment the rig is in. Wither you want your frame flat or gloss. Toyota Truck frames really arent very glossy from the factory.
If your in the rust belt and only using paint as an indicator like I do you use rust inhibitor and converters as the primer. Then you throw rust oliem flat black or gloss on the top. With a coating of your favorite rust proofing fluid over that.
I done frames in POR-15 and KB seal as well. KB seal is cheaper and I believe has UV protection in the paint [ not 100% ] on that one POR 15 does not so if you want that you need to coat it with another paint that has uv protection in paint with a certain time period before it gets rock hard..
Now if your after a show frame. I would stick with the SEM paints that a gloss. Or the higher end expoxy paints with really good leveling primer underneath. Eastwood probably has some good gloss paints as well.
To have the perfect show frame. The frame would have to be removed from the truck. Sand blasted and then several superior rust inhibiting primers. Then a few leveling coats of primer. Then your black base. With several coats of clear with sanding coats between all of that.
I really cant see too many folks doing option 3 because it's a frame and people drive these rigs.
Most folks in the non rust areas would probably do option 2 style of painting.
For us in the rust belt. 3 and 2 are just not worth it because of the environment. Steel oxidizes here and unless the rig was fluid rust proofing from new. We will not have show frames. Panels etc. Our best choice is option 1 because of our environmental conditions.
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If your in the rust belt and only using paint as an indicator like I do you use rust inhibitor and converters as the primer. Then you throw rust oliem flat black or gloss on the top. With a coating of your favorite rust proofing fluid over that.
I done frames in POR-15 and KB seal as well. KB seal is cheaper and I believe has UV protection in the paint [ not 100% ] on that one POR 15 does not so if you want that you need to coat it with another paint that has uv protection in paint with a certain time period before it gets rock hard..
Now if your after a show frame. I would stick with the SEM paints that a gloss. Or the higher end expoxy paints with really good leveling primer underneath. Eastwood probably has some good gloss paints as well.
To have the perfect show frame. The frame would have to be removed from the truck. Sand blasted and then several superior rust inhibiting primers. Then a few leveling coats of primer. Then your black base. With several coats of clear with sanding coats between all of that.
I really cant see too many folks doing option 3 because it's a frame and people drive these rigs.
Most folks in the non rust areas would probably do option 2 style of painting.
For us in the rust belt. 3 and 2 are just not worth it because of the environment. Steel oxidizes here and unless the rig was fluid rust proofing from new. We will not have show frames. Panels etc. Our best choice is option 1 because of our environmental conditions.
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Thanks! Will give this a try and see if this might satisfy my pickiness, just something about having a nice clean frame like those newer Toyotas
For us in the rust belt. 3 and 2 are just not worth it because of the environment. Steel oxidizes here and unless the rig was fluid rust proofing from new. We will not have show frames. Panels etc. Our best choice is option 1 because of our environmental conditions.
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Yeah it's definitely a never ending chase here in the rust belt (IL for me), but one that must be had if we want to keep our trucks ha!
brillo_76
Elite Member
I am experimenting with the rust converters now to see which ones of those seem to work the best.
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TonyB66
New member
I am experimenting with the rust converters now to see which ones of those seem to work the best.
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Might Corroseal be one? I have found quite a few are not aware of this product...
Someone in the boating world turned me onto the stuff when I was kid (long ago) and I later learned of many car guys using it on their restorations. I have a gallon and it has gone a long way on various house/yard and automotive projects. Curious how Corroseal performs in your experiment...
Corroseal Rust Converter | Metal Primer | Rust Paint
As to frame paint, internal, I used Eastwood's product. Using their wand, I chased that with my standard Rustoleum flat black, which is my default on external, visible portions...
Crazy09sage
New member
I got turned onto Corroseal doing a ‘72 Chevy truck resto back in high school and was my first choice when I did my underbody. Love the stuff!
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes so far its my favorite because is non toxic and the fumes don't kill you.
I personally didn't have any luck with the Eastwood internal frame paint. A year later I went back in and it was rusting..:-(
The kicker was that it really wasn't rusting there before.
Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
If anyone goes this route. I would definitely go with their internal convertor
and top coat with internal frame coat. I just wouldn't recommend this in the rust belt. Maybe be great in the non rust belt. ;-)
Dieselchessy
New member
Corroseal from Rodda is a primer, not a top coat.
I love the stuff for a frame, but I topcoat it on the exterior. Don’t bother on the inside of stuff.
I love the stuff for a frame, but I topcoat it on the exterior. Don’t bother on the inside of stuff.
brillo_76
Elite Member
If we dont bother with coating and cleaning the inside of our frames in the rust belt we have no frames left. As they will just from the inside out. Other areas wouldn't have this issue though.
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Dieselchessy
New member
If we dont bother with coating and cleaning the inside of our frames in the rust belt we have no frames left. As they will just from the inside out. Other areas wouldn't have this issue though.
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Not “don’t bother treating/sealing the inside”, but “don’t bother top coating Corroseal on the inside”.
If you don’t top coat Corroseal it oxidizes and turns flat looking. I’m also not sure it’s a 100% sealer like Por15 is.
I rattle can it with a satin black top coat on frame and suspension. Flat would probably better match old frame paint. I like the Duplicolor products, but others work fine as well.
Dieselchessy
New member
The OP seemed to be asking how to match the grey hazy 20 year old frame paint.
I’m thinking that would take a complete repaint.
Then the conversation wandered.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
actually, I wasn't. I was asking for a recommendation for a paint to match OEM frame coating after welding modifications. (I have a replacement frame on my Tacoma, so I've got a decent idea of what I'm after.)
- then the conversation wandered into advertising for frame repair services.
T4R2014
Elite Member
I have a feeling there will always be some minor variation. Japanese frames might have some sort of underside paint supplied by Sikkens while US Taco frames have an underside paint made by Dupont. I can't find any body work TSBs for this, so I'm guessing body shops would do repairs using whatever underbody paint is available locally, likely SEM.
SURF RUNNER
Senior Member
I had some time to kill during this pandemic, so I bought a gallon of Corroseal and have been very impressed. I only had some light rust in spots, but I’m painting the frame as a preventative measure. Corroseal is a primer, but you can top coat it later. I would suggest satin black Chassis Saver from Magnet paints or you can use the black Magnetron from Magnet Paints if you are worried about UV protection.
Corroseal goes on like milk and dries to look somewhere between satin and semi
-gloss black. It is hard to explain how forgiving this paint is. It actually converts rust to magnetite. Owners of barges and other steel salt water vessels swear by this stuff. I meant to do a post on it, but haven’t gotten to it yet.
Corroseal as a primer and one of the paints by Magnet Paints as a top coat is the way to go. Corroseal isn’t cheap, I paid $67 shipped for a gallon on Amaz@n. I have done a ton of research on the subject and the first step for me was Corroseal and I was blown away by this product. I had a mechanic ask me just yesterday what I am using to make my frame look almost brand new. When I showed him my order on my Amaz@n app he ordered it on the spot.
Corroseal goes on like milk and dries to look somewhere between satin and semi
-gloss black. It is hard to explain how forgiving this paint is. It actually converts rust to magnetite. Owners of barges and other steel salt water vessels swear by this stuff. I meant to do a post on it, but haven’t gotten to it yet.
Corroseal as a primer and one of the paints by Magnet Paints as a top coat is the way to go. Corroseal isn’t cheap, I paid $67 shipped for a gallon on Amaz@n. I have done a ton of research on the subject and the first step for me was Corroseal and I was blown away by this product. I had a mechanic ask me just yesterday what I am using to make my frame look almost brand new. When I showed him my order on my Amaz@n app he ordered it on the spot.
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