Frame Paint?
- Thread starter jkeith.w
- Start date
Crowcifier6
New member
+1 on the Corroseal for prep.... I had wire wheeled my frame and wiped down with Ospho, another rust converter, fairly caustic at that, when my neighbor brought home some Corroseal. I coated with POR15 after the Ospho, then Fluid Film over that. Its holding up well after almost a year.
I'd say the Corroseal is superior to the Ospho, I'd definitely go that route for prep next time.
I'd say the Corroseal is superior to the Ospho, I'd definitely go that route for prep next time.
brillo_76
Elite Member
actually, I wasn't. I was asking for a recommendation for a paint to match OEM frame coating after welding modifications. (I have a replacement frame on my Tacoma, so I've got a decent idea of what I'm after.)
- then the conversation wandered into advertising for frame repair services.
Umm. I just explained what happens in other areas. Also what an assumption as I dont fix other people frames. It's my hobby Keith nothing more. If you would have looked at build thread you would known this.
Being I been repairing my own frames for 30 years now I thought I would offer advice
No way can you match the OEM paint exactly.
I stayed on topic as this was about what to use as fame paint correct??
Or did I misread the title.
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4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
I'm planning to start painting my frame today with POR15, which is gloss. It obviously won't match OEM, but I figure it will make for a durable base for whatever else I decide to throw on it later.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Here is what I ended up with. I initially used the POR15, but ended up not liking the high gloss (as anticipated). So I used a flat black paint over the POR15, which I think looks pretty good:
jimmyrecluse
New member
I've been using Eastwood products, rust encapsulator, and paint finish
I'm in California and my frame is in great condition, I've been hitting areas that have some rock chips just to help make it last - frame maintenance
I'm in California and my frame is in great condition, I've been hitting areas that have some rock chips just to help make it last - frame maintenance
Kanoe
New member
In 6 months it’ll fade to a mat finish, doesn’t stay shiny too long. But I do the same as you, give it an over layer of semi-gloss. I’ve tried Por-15 overcoat and rust paint spray and both seem to do Ok as a top layer.
Your paint work looks great Leon!
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Thanks! Here is how it looked with POR-15 - it's pretty and shiny enough, but I got tired of it after a few days - after all it's a frame on an old SUV, not a Ferrari
.
Did you sand the por15 at all before painting it or just painted right over it without sanding?
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Yup, I had to go over it with some 400 grit sandpaper. Not fun.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Good deal if you dont sand POR or KB seal after a full cure the new paint wont stick.
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This thread has been super helpful for me. I read all of [MENTION=28842]Brillo[/MENTION]'s frame repair work, too. I can't yet post a new thread so figured I'd ask here for final word on how I plan to restore my 2002 frame.
It's surface/seam rust mostly, however the back (between spare tire beam and bumper) on driver's side will need some metal welded in. No worries there, have welder and plenty of practice with it. There may be other locations that I haven't found yet.
I'm cleaning inside and out. On the inside there is some scale that I will remove completely (well, as much as I can with air and water and magnets), as well as scrape everything I can. After the frame meets my standards I will then cover with Corroseal, let dry thoroughly, scuff with medium grit and then paint with Rustoleum Satin black. I've used Ospho to good success on other cars but not frame work. Based on what I'm reading Corroseal feels like the better choice.
My focus is to remove scale but most likely my final surface will be a mix of shiny clean metal and some pits.
Question - Is shiny metal + pits ok for Corroseal? I want good adhesion.
I'm in Austin, Texas and so hope the truck lasts some time but unfortunately it spent a few years in midwest...
Thanks folks.
Jason
It's surface/seam rust mostly, however the back (between spare tire beam and bumper) on driver's side will need some metal welded in. No worries there, have welder and plenty of practice with it. There may be other locations that I haven't found yet.
I'm cleaning inside and out. On the inside there is some scale that I will remove completely (well, as much as I can with air and water and magnets), as well as scrape everything I can. After the frame meets my standards I will then cover with Corroseal, let dry thoroughly, scuff with medium grit and then paint with Rustoleum Satin black. I've used Ospho to good success on other cars but not frame work. Based on what I'm reading Corroseal feels like the better choice.
My focus is to remove scale but most likely my final surface will be a mix of shiny clean metal and some pits.
Question - Is shiny metal + pits ok for Corroseal? I want good adhesion.
I'm in Austin, Texas and so hope the truck lasts some time but unfortunately it spent a few years in midwest...
Thanks folks.
Jason
From Corroseal's FAQ section: Frequently Asked Questions - Corroseal Rust Converter
"Can Corroseal be applied over non-rusted steel?
Yes, but Corroseal works best when rust is present. Do not apply Corroseal over Cor-ten steel, cold rolled steel, stainless steel or any steel that has been chemically treated."
"What surface preparation is needed prior to applying Corroseal?
First remove any loose, flakey rust and old paint, mill scale and visible debris. Wash the surface thoroughly with a cleaner to remove any oil, grease or other contaminants. Thoroughly rinse the cleaned surface to remove any cleaner residue that may have been left behind. The ideal surface preparation is CLEAN, TIGHT RUST!"
In the end I went with POR-15.
Spent many, many hours with a needle scaler and wire wheel on my angle grinder removing any and all flaking rust. Not so bad as it gave me chance to confirm no areas of the frame were really rotted or needed attention, just surface rust & flaking.
I didn’t top coat after applying as didn’t want the shine to remain. After nearly 2 years it’s faded to a chalky black which I don’t mind.
Still do my best to keep it off the winter roads as the roads near me are treated with rock salt.
Spent many, many hours with a needle scaler and wire wheel on my angle grinder removing any and all flaking rust. Not so bad as it gave me chance to confirm no areas of the frame were really rotted or needed attention, just surface rust & flaking.
I didn’t top coat after applying as didn’t want the shine to remain. After nearly 2 years it’s faded to a chalky black which I don’t mind.
Still do my best to keep it off the winter roads as the roads near me are treated with rock salt.
Thank you @Bad_Luck. You are correct, I should just have referenced the Corroseal documentation!
I think I'm just talking out loud. I feel my approach may not align with Corroseal since I will have shiny metal, and not uniform "clean, tight, rust" unless I spray with water after cleaning and let it flash rust... Was looking for someone to say, "just do it, it will be fine".
Perhaps if I get my problem areas down to 75% clean shiny metal and 25% clean shiny metal with some pitting, I would be better off with Ospho + paint topcoat.
ray2:Jason
