Freeing a rusted Strut

[robertesteele]

I am doing the daystar leveling kit on my 2004 4runner sport Edition with the V8 and no X-REAS suspesion. I have read quit a few threads on it and felt ready to go. I sprayed everything really well with penetrating oil and everything has gone well until it comes to the actual getting the strut/shock out. They are so rusted in. I have pounded all around the upper tower, I have used a pry bar on the side of the upper springs. I've tried hammering the metal housing that the bolts are sticking up through. One strut assembly finally broke free but I can't get the other to break free. I don't have a lot of fancy tools but I would love some suggestions on how to get the second one to break free. I've heard someone say they had to drill holes in the wheel well to pounded it out from above. I would prefer not to do that but that is the direction I am headed. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[ghs215]

Bigger hammer?

do you have the lower strut disengaged from the a-arm and swinging freely?

 

[robertesteele]

Bigger hammer?

do you have the lower strut disengaged from the a-arm and swinging freely?

Yes it's free and the swaybar has been removed.

 

[Elan750]

I stuck an 18" pipe on top and hammered away from the engin bay. I also used a torch to warm things up. I felt like it was going nowhere and was exhausted from swinging the 5lb hammer but it started to break loose and then I hammered a flathead screwdriver in the seam to finish it off.

It was the hardest, most unanticipated part of the job!

 

[Elan750]

buy a can of mapp gas from home depot if you dont have a torch, it will cost $20 bucks and will bail you out for a few years.

And also a compressor and hammer drill if you want to splurge

 

[robertesteele]

I stuck an 18" pipe on top and hammered away from the engin bay. I also used a torch to warm things up. I felt like it was going nowhere and was exhausted from swinging the 5lb hammer but it started to break loose and then I hammered a flathead screwdriver in the seam to finish it off.

It was the hardest, most unanticipated part of the job!

I have a torch. I'll give that a try and keep hammering at it. I don't understand where you put the pipe and where able to hammer away from the engine bay. It seems there isn't any room to hammer any direction other than directly toward the engine bay. Could you explain it a little more for me. I really want to get this stupid thing loose. I'm considering removing the airfilter housing and drilling a hole so I can pound on the back stud. That will also allow me to access that screw easier when I reinstall it, I will be able to tighten that bolt with a socket from inside the engine compartment.

 

[KaseyMcc]

I have a torch. I'll give that a try and keep hammering at it. I don't understand where you put the pipe and where able to hammer away from the engine bay. It seems there isn't any room to hammer any direction other than directly toward the engine bay. Could you explain it a little more for me. I really want to get this stupid thing loose. I'm considering removing the airfilter housing and drilling a hole so I can pound on the back stud. That will also allow me to access that screw easier when I reinstall it, I will be able to tighten that bolt with a socket from inside the engine compartment.

I had this same problem just a few weeks ago when changing my suspension out. Tried everything you tried and nothing worked. The pry bar I was trying just wouldn't do anything because the rubber pads between the frame and top of the strut seemed to dampen any blows. Ultimately, I sharpened the pry bar on a grinder so that it would wedge between the rubber and the top frame strut mount area a bit better, forcing it in with a hammer finally broke it loose with just a couple whacks. I was considering drilling a hole above the strut too and pounding down from the engine bay, luckily this way worked like a charm. I lost several hours before sharpening the pry bar. Good luck!

 

[robertesteele]

Thanks everyone for the ideas. After trying torching it and more pb blaster, and more prying, I finally drilled some holes in the wheel well and busted it free that way, but my bigger tires now fit and the car has more clearance. I also put an air lift in the back since I had the coils out.

 

[NJTrail]

Oh man. Salt. time. rust. Did this today. It was impossible working from the top. Blaster. BFH. Crowbar. More BFH. Air hammer. Even loosened the three posts, put wheel back on and went driving over potholes. Finally tried just beating the spring with a sledge. Nothing budged.

Then I compressed the spring with the strut tool and removed the top nut. Pulled the strut and spring off that way. NOW, with the spring and rubber gaskets removed, from beneath you can easily slip the air chisel in between the inside of the top hat flange and the frame bracket. Popped right off. Wish I hadn’t wasted nearly an entire day before it did!

Between this and the KDSS swaybar headaches, I’m about done!