Front Brake Caliper Seized

[Batang.Gapo]

Apparently front brake caliper is seized and dealership is recommending to replace both front.

I challenged the advisor on why both instead of only the seized one. He said 'as per book'.

I will be make some calls tomorrow and ask other dealership.

What is your opinion on this?

Thanks

 

[TrailRunnin14]

I had the same thing about 6 weeks ago. Driver side was seized. Passenger side is fine. Only replaced the driver side, if the passenger side goes I’ll replace that as well but for now it’s fine.


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[Talon2006]

Personally, if it was me and I was working on my truck, I would just replace both.

Sure, the passenger one might be fine for a while... but if it goes out just after the brake job you are probably replacing the pads and rotor on that side again.

 

[justanothereric]

How many miles do you have on your truck? If you're over 100k miles I would do both..

If you're under that by a good amount I would just replace the defective one.

 

[Relentlesskaizen]

Coming from someone who works on cars. We only recommend the one that is seized. It is not “as per book” or what ever that means. Most likely Just an advisor trying to bill more on parts. Professionally this is poor practice and shady. Go somewhere else.


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[Batang.Gapo]

How many miles do you have on your truck? If you're over 100k miles I would do both..

If you're under that by a good amount I would just replace the defective one.

2011 at 108,000 km / 67,000 miles. Brake rotors and pads was replaced Nov. 2018 at 90k/56k miles.

Thanks for sharing your opinion.

 

[DougR]

You're in Canada, so did salt corrosion cause the failure? If so, is the other side equally corroded but not yet seized? Where did it seize, piston to caliper bore or slide pin(s) to caliper? Is the rotor damaged on the side that seized? On the side that is seized, are the brakes dragging or do the brakes fail to engage, or are the brakes slow to engage? Has the brake fluid ever been changed?

I think a careful inspection of all components on both sides is needed.

I had a caliper seize once, about 40 some years ago, where the cause was caliper piston plating failure. The piston would not completely retract, brake pads were lightly dragging on the rotor but not so much as to overheat the brakes and warp the rotor. I repaired the one side.

 

[Batang.Gapo]

You're in Canada, so did salt corrosion cause the failure?
-- Possibly, truck is 10 years old. Purchased it new in April 2011.

If so, is the other side equally corroded but not yet seized?
-- Not sure, only the driver side wheel is 'hotter' than the passenger side. Possibly due to seized caliper.

Where did it seize, piston to caliper bore or slide pin(s) to caliper?
-- The correction stated on my bill as 'Recommend replacement of driver side front brake caliper due to seized piston'

Is the rotor damaged on the side that seized?
-- I don't think rotor is damaged from visual inspection, front rotors and pads were replaced Nov. 2018 at 90K,truck is now at 108 k now. Driver side pads is at 6mm and passenger side is at 8mm.

On the side that is seized, are the brakes dragging or do the brakes fail to engage, or are the brakes slow to engage?
-- I believed so, both me and my son thinks that truck is slow to start as if something is 'pulling it'.
-- brakes perform as expected

Has the brake fluid ever been changed?
-- Yes, Nov. 2018 at 90, truck is now at 108k

Thanks for your input.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

You're in Canada, so did salt corrosion cause the failure?
-- Possibly, truck is 10 years old. Purchased it new in April 2011.

If so, is the other side equally corroded but not yet seized?
-- Not sure, only the driver side wheel is 'hotter' than the passenger side. Possibly due to seized caliper.

Where did it seize, piston to caliper bore or slide pin(s) to caliper?
-- The correction stated on my bill as 'Recommend replacement of driver side front brake caliper due to seized piston'

Is the rotor damaged on the side that seized?
-- I don't think rotor is damaged from visual inspection, front rotors and pads were replaced Nov. 2018 at 90K,truck is now at 108 k now. Driver side pads is at 6mm and passenger side is at 8mm.

On the side that is seized, are the brakes dragging or do the brakes fail to engage, or are the brakes slow to engage?
-- I believed so, both me and my son thinks that truck is slow to start as if something is 'pulling it'.
-- brakes perform as expected

Has the brake fluid ever been changed?
-- Yes, Nov. 2018 at 90, truck is now at 108k

Thanks for your input.

Seized calipers can be caused by more than just... the caliper internally preventing pressure release.

Calipers could be doing their job, and the ABS pump has gone, and won’t let up. Can you remove the ABS fuse and see if they release?

Don’t drive the vehicle on public roads like this but will it alleviate anything when trying to creep back/forth and see if caliper unstuck?


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[Cheers!]

If you live in the salt belt or Canada. That is just normal. Happens to all cars.

 

[Jivewalker]

It is not unusual to replace calipers in pairs and I have done that on previous vehicles. Unless the other side is already new, you may get slightly uneven performance which could lead to other problems. Hydraulics should be working as equally on both sides as possible. An old piston will not perform the same as a new piston. Never jeopardize safety or reliability to save costs, it's just kicking the can, and you will eventually have to kick it again or pick it up.

 

[<<<<]

I had my driver side front caliper replaced 3 times on my 4th gen while passenger side only once. I would be wasting money and time doing them in pair 3 times. Get reman caliper from NAPA or Advance Auto(Carquest) since those come with Lifetime Warranty where OEM Toyota has 1 year warranty only. They all (OEM and Remanufactured) fail in rust belt but at least you won't have to pay for parts ever again. As for labor DIY because it is super easy 20 minute job.

 

[enyce]

Apparently front brake caliper is seized and dealership is recommending to replace both front.

I challenged the advisor on why both instead of only the seized one. He said 'as per book'.

I will be make some calls tomorrow and ask other dealership.

What is your opinion on this?

Thanks

Not sure what "as per book' refers to but you should replace both calipers based on vehicle current mileage. If it's over 60k I would suggest both but document one as a system failure. If one front shock failed would you replace just that one if vehicle mileage was over 60k? Most likely not.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

You're in Canada, so did salt corrosion cause the failure?
-- Possibly, truck is 10 years old. Purchased it new in April 2011.

If so, is the other side equally corroded but not yet seized?
-- Not sure, only the driver side wheel is 'hotter' than the passenger side. Possibly due to seized caliper.

Where did it seize, piston to caliper bore or slide pin(s) to caliper?
-- The correction stated on my bill as 'Recommend replacement of driver side front brake caliper due to seized piston'

Is the rotor damaged on the side that seized?
-- I don't think rotor is damaged from visual inspection, front rotors and pads were replaced Nov. 2018 at 90K,truck is now at 108 k now. Driver side pads is at 6mm and passenger side is at 8mm.

On the side that is seized, are the brakes dragging or do the brakes fail to engage, or are the brakes slow to engage?
-- I believed so, both me and my son thinks that truck is slow to start as if something is 'pulling it'.
-- brakes perform as expected

Has the brake fluid ever been changed?
-- Yes, Nov. 2018 at 90, truck is now at 108k

Thanks for your input.

Given that you’re in Canada and the truck is 11 years old, replace both as they will both be corroded.

The real question is why are you at a dealer?

 

[BlueRidge77]

It’s common to replace items like this in pairs especially when the parts have reached the end of a reasonable service life. Not completely “needed”. (If you have one fail at 10k, probably not...) I know there is higher cost to getting it done since you’re having the work done at the dealer, but if you did it yourself, the parts cost to do both would be less than one side with parts and labor... can you tackle it yourself? Also, there is something to be said for convenience of not another service visit and not leaving you stranded later on.

If I was doing it myself, I wouldn’t think twice to replace both. If I have to go through the hassle of bleeding the new side, I may as well drain the brake lines and do both front calipers and make a day of it...

 

[<<<<]

Whatever route you'll choose to go, make sure you get new set of pads for both front brakes even if you only replaced one caliper.