Front Brake change turned strange

P

PlugKnocker

New member
2005 4runner sport edition.
150k
V8 2WD 17inch wheels.
Front change only. (No rear work)
Replaced Pads and Rotors.
When test drove short ride 3 miles. Brakes were hot on return.
Lift the front wheels they would not roll/spin. Could not move.
Took back apart removing pads double checked the work. All was correct. Reassembled the brakes again. Rotor turn but once the wheel is tightened down. The wheel seizes up and will not turn free spin.
Called Auto parts. Took rotors and box back to check and they were correct parts (O'Reilly's)
But suggestion trying a different rotor only 12.5 IN OD.
Install the 12.5 Rotors and same pads. Rotor turns and pads are installed. Mount wheel and it will not roll/rotate at all.
Very irritating since many times now off and on.
Last choice.
Put ALL the old parts back on. Rotors, old pads, Mount wheels and guess what.
The wheels roll freely. I think I have another 20k on these pads.
Any suggestions you can offer. Since I still need this done.
What caused the new Rotor and pad to seize the wheel?
Thank you
 
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Sounds to me like the calipers could be sticking or the aftermarket rotors are cast just a little bit off. Can you put the OEM and aftermarket rotors side by side to see if there are any differences?
 
We checked them dimensionally and O'Reilly did too. We also compared the news ones to the old set.
If calibers are needed to. Well that about doubles the job cost.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
Thank you for the responses. I believe I'll take your advice and replace pads, and calibers. Maybe just have these original rotors turned. They have never been turned. If I can avoid buying new rotors that would cover the calibers? Does that sound reasonable?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
Be sure to check the brake fluid. I flush my system yearly and with high quality high temp fluid. Plus, on every service I perform on brake systems, I always inspect, blow out and spray brake clean around the calipers and rotors, every time. I also blow air thru the rotor veins to help remove any clogged up debris. I have 125k miles on my t4 and have yet to have a caliper issue. While in there servicing the calipers and rotors, like i mentioned, be sure to clean all debris out. But also service the brake pad caliper slide pins to ensure they are free, not bound up. I realize this sounds like a lot, but if you are a regular user or a hard user, then you must pay extra attention to the front and rear systems of our rigs. I know for a fact the rear rotors have a difficult time removing built up heat and built up dirt and debris even thou the rotor has cooling veins like the front. Im always amazed at how much dirt and silt comes out of the rear rotors when I service them during my 5000 mile oil changes.
good luck and let us know how things work out.
 
Sounds like sticking calipers. When you installed the new pads and rotors, you must have had to compress the caliper pistons in order to fit the new pads onto the rotors. Did they move freely? Or was it difficult to compress them?

Try installing 3 lug nuts directly against the rotor and see if it spins straight between the pads. (You may need a washer on each depending on the length of the wheel studs)

It could be a bad set of rotors like someone mentioned above.
 
Last edited:
I doubt it's the calipers if everything works fine with the old stuff back on
There might be a production date difference
Try running your vin number at O'riellys and see if the same part numbers come up
 
MarkamisPrime said:
I doubt it's the calipers if everything works fine with the old stuff back on
There might be a production date difference
Try running your vin number at O'riellys and see if the same part numbers come up
Click to expand...

No it does sound like sticking calipers. Old pad mean less thickness. The thicker pads is what's causing the problem. Replace the calipers, pads and rotors and you are done. Btw the 12.5 inch rotors are for the SR5. do not use those. Your sport model call for a 338 mm rotor.

Which does set you up for a 5th gen caliper and rotor upgrade.


If it was me, I would buy 5th gen rotors and calipers and the best pads that autozone sells. That way they are lifetime. I get all my stuff from autozone and their stuff has great warrenties. Maybe O'Reilly has the same thing g.
 
Morphyne said:
No it does sound like sticking calipers. Old pad mean less thickness. The thicker pads is what's causing the problem. Replace the calipers, pads and rotors and you are done. Btw the 12.5 inch rotors are for the SR5. do not use those. Your sport model call for a 338 mm rotor.

Which does set you up for a 5th gen caliper and rotor upgrade.


If it was me, I would buy 5th gen rotors and calipers and the best pads that autozone sells. That way they are lifetime. I get all my stuff from autozone and their stuff has great warrenties. Maybe O'Reilly has the same thing g.
Click to expand...

If it is the calipers, why would they only seize when the wheel is back on? It sounds like the rotors are wrong.
 
smokey73 said:
If it is the calipers, why would they only seize when the wheel is back on? It sounds like the rotors are wrong.
Click to expand...

Because pads are new and thicker. I bet you a steak dinner that if he replaces calipers pads and rotors he will he all set. Not trying to flame. Just convinced that's what it is. I am here to learn so if it's something else I am with you.

OP. You know how to change rotors so I am guessing you know how to check calipers for functionality?

If it wasn't for the fave that calipers on these thing seize almost like clockwork I would Co sided other options.
 
PlugKnocker said:
Thank you for the responses. I believe I'll take your advice and replace pads, and calibers. Maybe just have these original rotors turned. They have never been turned. If I can avoid buying new rotors that would cover the calibers? Does that sound reasonable?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What was the purpose of replacing the rotors anyway? Did you have a vibration? If so, it might be the calipers. I had a vibration and was convinced it was the rotors. Turned out to be a frozen caliper.
 
smokey73 said:
If it is the calipers, why would they only seize when the wheel is back on? It sounds like the rotors are wrong.
Click to expand...



Exactly
If the caliper was bad it be stuck no matter what parts were on there
I work for les schwab and literally do 15-20 brake jobs a day
I also deal with oreilly and other local parts stores and they do miss box parts or just fat finger the keyboard and give you the wrong parts
We replace calipers every time for warranty purposes but I have seen many different types of brake issues
And this one just sounds like wrong parts
I mean I could be wrong but calipers are pretty expensive for just a maybe
I'd definitely try just running your vin
 
You could try the old rotors with the new pads. If you still have no wheel rotation you pretty much know it's the calipers.
 
What kind of pads/rotors where you using? I've seen some less than stellar quality pads/rotors have loose tolerances and when you install them, they dragged. We ended up having to sand the pads down for the customer because they didn't want to buy new stuff.
 
MarkamisPrime said:
Exactly
If the caliper was bad it be stuck no matter what parts were on there
I work for les schwab and literally do 15-20 brake jobs a day
I also deal with oreilly and other local parts stores and they do miss box parts or just fat finger the keyboard and give you the wrong parts
We replace calipers every time for warranty purposes but I have seen many different types of brake issues
And this one just sounds like wrong parts
I mean I could be wrong but calipers are pretty expensive for just a maybe
I'd definitely try just running your vin
Click to expand...

Sorry. You are right. He should check his calipers before changing them. Fwiw. Use a c-clamp to compress each of the four pistons. Place a pad on one side and leave the other side empty. Then, with the key on. Have some body press the brake pedal once or twice. Use a flat bar to push them back in. This is how I check for stuck pistons.

Edit. Leave the master cylinder cap of when doing this. A buddy of mine ruined his master cylander by not doing this correctly. But then again. He has a POS mini van.
 
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