Front Brake Hard Lines

[Bumbo]

I am going to install some new calipers (front only) and have some new SS braided lines (6 lines front and rear) to add to this project as well.

Any tips or recommendations?

I was thinking of doing the front calipers / complete brake job then tackle the lines... Not sure if I should do the lines first or in what order this should take place.

Also... the front brakes have a hard line. Any tips to working with those? Torque values? and do they have a union on them? Do they spin free or do I need to remove the hard line from the clip and flex hose first so it can actually rotate?

Thanks

 

[Macallan]

Here is the toyota brake bleeding info:

View attachment brakebleeding.pdf

 

[blackoutt]

Do the lines all at the same time as the calipers because you'll have to bleed it all at the same time. Fronts must be bled with vacuum bleeder or pumping pedal the normal way, rears can be bled with just holding the pedal down and cracking the bleeder valve since there's a pump that does the work for you! Don't let the reservoir go dry whatever you do! You'll need a big bottle of fluid for this job. Hard lines have union nuts, do yourself a favor and get a proper 10mm union nut wrench. If they don't break loose you can apply heat and PB blaster to carefully work them loose, if they are rusted better to replace since the pain you've caused with heat and wrenching will only weaken them more. My michigan raised 4runner had all good hard lines still at 115k miles though so you might be fine. I just torque them til their tight? They are a tapered seat type fitting so tight enough to not leak works, too tight and you'll just mash them together more creating no better seal and making it harder to remove next time. Brake line clips can suck, I like to use a flathead screwdriver to pry them out a little bit from their mount then grip next to the tab on the very end with a big needle nose pliers and again use those to pry off the mount tab. Probably not a good visual description but try it and you'll see what works best, they can be a pain. Good luck!

 

[Bumbo]

Do the lines all at the same time as the calipers because you'll have to bleed it all at the same time. Fronts must be bled with vacuum bleeder or pumping pedal the normal way, rears can be bled with just holding the pedal down and cracking the bleeder valve since there's a pump that does the work for you! Don't let the reservoir go dry whatever you do! You'll need a big bottle of fluid for this job. Hard lines have union nuts, do yourself a favor and get a proper 10mm union nut wrench. If they don't break loose you can apply heat and PB blaster to carefully work them loose, if they are rusted better to replace since the pain you've caused with heat and wrenching will only weaken them more. My michigan raised 4runner had all good hard lines still at 115k miles though so you might be fine. I just torque them til their tight? They are a tapered seat type fitting so tight enough to not leak works, too tight and you'll just mash them together more creating no better seal and making it harder to remove next time. Brake line clips can suck, I like to use a flathead screwdriver to pry them out a little bit from their mount then grip next to the tab on the very end with a big needle nose pliers and again use those to pry off the mount tab. Probably not a good visual description but try it and you'll see what works best, they can be a pain. Good luck!

Thanks... I have been collecting parts and tools for this job for a while now. All this stuff should have been done by now but sometimes I am the master of procrastination.

I did pick up a used Snap-On 10mm flare nut wrench, some clear 1/4" OD vinal tube for bleeding, some brake cleaner, two big bottles of DOT3, Goodrich 6 line set, and what I needed for my front brake job (new calipers, rotors, and pads)

I see some torque specs on the box of lines but I am not sure if that is just for the banjo bolt or for all the connections...

My plan was to siphon pump the existing DOT3 out of the master cylinder and fill with fresh before starting. Should I start with the rear lines first? Does it even matter? I was planning on doing one corner, bleeding, then moving to the next.

Thanks

 

[blackoutt]

Rule of thumb is to bleed longest line first if I remember correctly but shouldn't really matter, bleed until clean fluid comes out and you're good.