Front Brake Job

2012sr5

New member
Two firsts here: It's the first time I'll be doing my own brakes, and it's the first time I did NOT find a write-up/how-to on the forum. So in the event that you find yourself in my shoes (that's a drum brake pun for you [size=-2](you're welcome)[/size]) wanting to DIY your brakes for the first time, here's some help for you.

I've read a lot that it's pretty simple, so I'm looking forward to it.

I'm at 97k miles, and I have a tiny bit of shaking when braking, so I'm going to go ahead and replace the front rotors with the pads. If you don't have any shaking, you might just set aside some time to take your rotors to your mechanic to have them turned.

Having never touched brakes before, is there anything else I should replace along with the pads and rotors?

I found the following OEM parts for my 2012 SR5 at Camelback Toyota:

Front Pads # 04465-60320
Front Rotor # 43512-60191 (x 2)
BONUS: Forum discount code TWpartz

And I plan on following this video:


Good luck to us all :beer:
 
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Shims used to be an issue since they only come with the OEM pads. You need to remember to save the old ones or get new ones from Toyota if using 3rd party parts otherwise you may end up with an annoying squeal.

This was the case with my '10 TE, not sure if its still an issue.
 
Two firsts here: It's the first time I'll be doing my own brakes, and it's the first time I did NOT find a write-up/how-to on the forum. So in the event that you find yourself in my shoes (that's a drum brake pun for you [SIZE=-2](you're welcome)[/SIZE]) wanting to DIY your brakes for the first time, here's some help for you.

I've read a lot that it's pretty simple, so I'm looking forward to it.

I'm at 97k miles, and I have a tiny bit of shaking when braking, so I'm going to go ahead and replace the front rotors with the pads. If you don't have any shaking, you might just set aside some time to take your rotors to your mechanic to have them turned.

Having never touched brakes before, is there anything else I should replace along with the pads and rotors?

I found the following OEM parts for my 2012 SR5 at Camelback Toyota:

Front Pads # 04465-60320
Front Rotor # 43512-60191 (x 2)
BONUS: Forum discount code TWpartz

And I plan on following this video:


Good luck to us all :beer:
even with some pulsation/shaking, you can very likely have the rotors resurfaced. would just have to get the mic'd to know for sure.
 
Shims used to be an issue since they only come with the OEM pads. You need to remember to save the old ones or get new ones from Toyota if using 3rd party parts otherwise you may end up with an annoying squeal.

This was the case with my '10 TE, not sure if its still an issue.

I went OEM for pads and rotors. Are you saying that shims come with OEM pads but not with aftermarket?
 
[MENTION=165476]2012sr5[/MENTION] you mention in your original post that "I'm at 97k miles, and I have a tiny bit of shaking when braking, so I'm going to go ahead and replace the front rotors with the pads."

I'd be concerned that the "shaking" could be related to a stuck caliper. Be sure that all of your calipers are freely moving when doing the replacement of your brake pads. A seized caliper could cause premature wear to your brake pads along with damage to your rotor.
 
[MENTION=165476]2012sr5[/MENTION] you mention in your original post that "I'm at 97k miles, and I have a tiny bit of shaking when braking, so I'm going to go ahead and replace the front rotors with the pads."

I'd be concerned that the "shaking" could be related to a stuck caliper. Be sure that all of your calipers are freely moving when doing the replacement of your brake pads. A seized caliper could cause premature wear to your brake pads along with damage to your rotor.

I can't find a single instance of a stuck caliper on a 5th gen. Wouldn't there be squealing or a noticeable drag when coasting? Would I notice a loss of fuel economy?

I did notice drag and a noise when my parking brake was not properly adjusted by a mechanic after having the rear rotors turned (part of why I'm doing this stuff myself now), but I adjusted the little star wheel inside the rear passenger side rotor, and the drag (and noise) are gone.
 
I went OEM for pads and rotors. Are you saying that shims come with OEM pads but not with aftermarket?

I think what he's saying is the shims are needed for OEM replacement as they don't have shim backing built into the pad. The other options—Akebono, Advics, TRD, etc—should all have the shims built into the pad assembly.

For the OEM, the shim kit is a separate part, same as the rest of the hardware

Front Rotor: 4351260191
Front Brake Pads: 0446560320
Front Shim Kit: 0494560090
Front Caliper Pins: 4773560300
Front Caliper Pin hold: 4774360280
Front Anti-Rattle Spring: 4774835010

At 97k I would replace all the hardware, then clean and grease everything
 

You're right! Second page of your first link, there's one guy who specifically says his calipers were seized.

But aren't stuck pins different? From what I read, that just means some of the pins that hold the pads in place get rusted to the caliper, which doesn't mean the caliper is seized, right?

I'm new to all this, so I'm fully aware I could be wrong.

Again though, I am experiencing no noise, drag, or mpg loss at all. It doesn't pull to one side or the other. Just a little shimmy when I brake.

A little bit more info: when I had the issue of the parking brake shoes dragging on the inside of the rotor, the mechanic who had adjusted it incorrectly decided to just put a new rotor on in case it heated up too much and warped the inside of the old one when the shoes were dragging. Could a brand new rotor on one side (rear passenger) make the truck shimmy just a hair when braking?

Thank you for your help.
 
By no means am I a brake expert, and I do not service my own brakes (good for you, btw!).

But having gone through the experience of several seized calipers on my 03 (4th gen) 4Runner, I was going to be proactive with my 2011 4Runner and have an annual brake service to ensure all of the calipers were freely moving.

On my 03, the V8 engine was so powerful that I did not notice the seized front caliper for some time. It would still crawl away from a stop with seemingly little drag. Did not notice any noise. And I would not say that the mpg were out of line (I manually calculate and record it at each fill-up). What eventually alerted me to the problem was the burning smell of brake pad and then how hot my front rim felt to the touch.

I only offered a seized caliper as a potential source of your brake shimmy, and suggested to ensure everything is moving freely when you replace parts. Sounds like that can be removed as a potential source, and move on to other possibilities.
 
IMO, he wouldn't have got 97k out of his brakes/rotors if he had a seized caliper. But its always good to test that the calipers are working properly while you're doing the brake job.

At those miles, I think you're smart doing new rotors with the pads. They aren't that expensive and it'll save you time trying to get the old ones shaved. I did both on mine at 65k....smooth as silk after that.

I also agree with Tristero on getting new hardware with the rest of it. I didn't get that and noticed my pins were pretty beat up. I wish I would have got new hardware, but I was already deep into the brake job before I realized I should have ordered those parts.
 
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I think what he's saying is the shims are needed for OEM replacement as they don't have shim backing built into the pad. The other options—Akebono, Advics, TRD, etc—should all have the shims built into the pad assembly.

For the OEM, the shim kit is a separate part, same as the rest of the hardware

Front Rotor: 4351260191
Front Brake Pads: 0446560320
Front Shim Kit: 0494560090
Front Caliper Pins: 4773560300
Front Caliper Pin hold: 4774360280
Front Anti-Rattle Spring: 4774835010

At 97k I would replace all the hardware, then clean and grease everything


Thanks! I put in new front rotors and pads. All the shimmy--when braking and when driving 55-70mph--is gone. Maybe one or both of those rotors were warped?

Good call on the hardware. I'll order it and go ahead and replace it as well.
 

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