Front Brake Rotors
- Thread starter OHP
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
most of the guys on here will tell you to do the Tundra brake upgrade, which seems to be very cost effective and a straight forward swap. I have had great luck Using Brembo Rotors on (2) 3rd Gen 4Runners and (1) 2001 Tacoma. They all had warped rotors before and I put a lot of miles on the Brembos with no issues.
I dont think you can go wrong either way...Just depends how much you want to spend.
Personally, I don't feel I need any more stopping power, so I stuck with the Stock brakes.
I dont think you can go wrong either way...Just depends how much you want to spend.
Personally, I don't feel I need any more stopping power, so I stuck with the Stock brakes.
Qyota
New member
Unless you're buying bottom of the barrel parts, just about any rotor will work. The problem comes from poor brake bedding, and/or poor brake technique on a regular basis. Uneven pad material transfer is commonly referred to as "warp", and it has a lot to do with bedding and brake usage technique. The stock brakes are perfectly adequate for the 4runner.
OHP
New member
I've read several threads about this "bedding" theory. Anybody know if you can or tried to bed brakes that have some miles on them already? My rotors and pads were replaced about 10K miles ago.
Mellow77
New member
Are you sure it's due to the rotors?
While you're assessing the problem make sure it is indeed the rotors. If it only occurs during breaking (very common) then that's likely all it is. But while you're checking it out make sure there isn't play in the front end coming from the tie rods, cv axles and steering rack.
In my case I had both vibrations from the rotors and some other worn parts.
While you're assessing the problem make sure it is indeed the rotors. If it only occurs during breaking (very common) then that's likely all it is. But while you're checking it out make sure there isn't play in the front end coming from the tie rods, cv axles and steering rack.
In my case I had both vibrations from the rotors and some other worn parts.
brian2sun
Elite Member
My brakes were always under-powered no matter what brand pads and rotors I used. I consider the Tundra brakes pretty much a necessity if you run bigger tires (33s or larger) and/or have a lot of extra weight.
If you're going to put any money into the front pads and rotors, you really are better off just spending another $150 and getting Tundra calipers. The pads and rotors aren't much more for the Tundra stuff.
RunninInGA
New member
Yes - follow the procedure the manufacturer of the pad recommends for bedding them in upon install. I had upgraded pads and rotors on my Acura and while I was diagnosing a pad material issue on a new set of rotors, had to re-bed the pads / rotors several times throughout the process.
You want the pads and rotors to literally smoke from the heat when you're done - then drive for a good 10-15 minutes open road (read interstate or highway) to cool the parts down normally. Let me know if you have any questions.
Qyota
New member
Due to the increased unsprung weight and rotating mass, this is probably true. However, for my stock application (265/70), the OEM calipers have performed fine in all situations.
Qyota
New member
One thing to be sure to do with any new rotor is to clean the braking surface very well with brake cleaner before putting them on. They are boxed with a coating to prevent rusting while sitting in storage or being shipped. This can cause uneven pad material transfer right from the start. Same with getting greasy/dirty finger and hand prints on the braking surface during installation.
brian2sun
Elite Member
Yeah, my stock brakes were sufficient with stock-sized tires, but I still wouldn't call them "good" - especially compared to all the newer vehicles with 4-wheel disc brakes.
I think spending any money on rotors or pads for these brakes just isn't worth it - even on a stock truck, but that's just because I have Tundras and know how much better they are. For ~$150-$175 more (if you're already buying pads and rotors), the Tundras will be a gigantic improvement. And they are still a lot safer for those times when you have 4 or 5 people in the truck or you're pulling a trailer.
I think spending any money on rotors or pads for these brakes just isn't worth it - even on a stock truck, but that's just because I have Tundras and know how much better they are. For ~$150-$175 more (if you're already buying pads and rotors), the Tundras will be a gigantic improvement. And they are still a lot safer for those times when you have 4 or 5 people in the truck or you're pulling a trailer.
SIKHILUXSURF
New member
i am thinking of doing the Tundra Brake swap now as well. the EBC's Rotors and green stuff pads just dont cut it any more. and i just dont feel confident braking with them. i Hope this will be a good difference for me being that i now have 285/75/16's and LA Traffic is a nightmare.
OHP
New member
Thanks for the responses and advice. I can definitely see the benefit in the Tundra upgrade. Especially since I have a heavy boat that I will tow from time to time. The only problem is that the upgrade not only costs me the brake parts, it also costs either a set of wheel spacers or new rims. As I understand it, the 231mm brakes will not fit behind a stock mounted 16" rim. Correct?
A.Wilson013
New member
If you still have the rims in your sig, then you're correct, they will not fit. You can, however, shave them down to get them to clear. There are threads on the forum that cover this.
Also, if price is the issue, I got my 199mm Rotors/Calipers/Pads off a Tundra being parted out for $80... It can be done cheap/
Also, if price is the issue, I got my 199mm Rotors/Calipers/Pads off a Tundra being parted out for $80... It can be done cheap/
brian2sun
Elite Member
The split 3 spoke wheels that you have will fit with the Tundra 199mm calipers without any modification or spacers. The 5 stars (like I have) clear the 231mms. But, both are still a big improvement over the stock brakes.
Or, even better, you can always grind a little material off of the 231mm calipers (or the grind the wheels themselves) to clear the split 3s. You only have to grind a little bit. You can buy an angle grinder from Harbor Freight for $10 and once you have the wheels off, the grinding would only take a few minutes.
EDIT: Damn! Ninja'd by Wilson, lol.
Triumphdog
New member
What year Tundra calipers are we talking about? I noticed the brakes are total crap on my runner. And I've wanted to upgrade from the get go. I'm also looking to ad braided brake lines.
sierra_summits
Member
brakes
i istalled new oem pads with brembo rotors and brake issues are gone. i spent under 300 for the whole thing.
i istalled new oem pads with brembo rotors and brake issues are gone. i spent under 300 for the whole thing.
JBorn
New member
Was this replacing the OEM 4Runner brakes, or sized for the tundra?
awdjunkies
New member
I think he went OEM ... On another note I was also going to try the slotted(Non-dimpled/cross drilled) rotors with a good Pad, as well as replacing the fluid with a high temp one. sometimes that's all it takes to have better brake pedal feel/stopping power because after all I am not going to drive it like I stole it.
I do however, understand these guys going TUNDRA upgrade, due to towing or hauling...
theizzardking
New member
not going to lie, i have brembo cross drilled and slotted with $$$ ceramic pads, it took me getting the rotors turned on the hub to get rid of the pulsating effects , this is after weeks if not months bedding them in pulling them off and having them turned then bedding again, another thing to note is that the brakes are a system, meaning if you have something funky going on with the back brakes that issue is going to be transferred to the front brakes as well since they are picking up the slack, as well as making sure both left and right are operating in unison
i did all of that and still had issues, i finally got it sorted after months of pita....
so in the end was the issue the brakes being undersized and even the slightest discrepancy in the system causes them to wear unevenly i.e. warp or was the issue a tolerance stack up somewhere around the hub, i don't know, i can say though is the price you spend on rotors and pads in this case is null and in the end your better off going with the tundra swap and sorting your issues out then spending big bucks on high grade stock replacements and sorting out your issues , at least with the tundra upgrade you have more potential stopping power and better cooling (larger rotor can take more heat) as opposed to just upgrading the stock rotors with somewhat better cooling (cross drilled and slotted, the rotor is still the same size just more air flow)
if i had to do it all over again i'd just go with the tundra upgrade and call it a day, the amount you need to take of the caliper is very small and wont hurt a thing, take it off the caliper as you may get some funky wheel balance issues if you take it from the wheel.
i hope my post confused you even more, lol, this is just how i view it and my personal experiences trying to make the best of my stock setup
