Front brakes dragging after steering wheel wobble

[STI_MECE]

So, as title reads....at around 60-65 the steering wheel wobbles a good amount left to right, then gradually after that about 10 minutes or so, the front brakes are full on locked up (not retracting) and just dragging hard.

Eventually it get to the point where the truck will not go anywhere.

Alittle backstory....I had this exact problem when going to NTB to get an alignment done. On the way their, brakes locked up. They told me the calipers were siezed so they put remanufactured ones on.

Fast forward two or three months, my brakes locked up again....so I go ahead and replaced the rubber brake lines.

That didn't change anything. I made sure the Pistons on the calipers were still moving and they were.

Even after I did all of that, plus flushing the bell out of front end I couldn't get the pads to stop dragging.

This problem is repeatable. To a T, get in truck when the brakes are cold drive on high for a few minutes, and then steering wheel wobbles then brakes begin to drag more and more.

I think the wobble comes from the brakes swelling then eventually they get so hot everything mashes together. but even cold, the brakes are slightly dragging.

What gives? The entire week the brakes were stellar. I rebuilt the rear brakes and bleed them and my brakes were good as new then all the sudden the front craps on it self. And I never touched them since NTB did it.


And both sides drag as well....so that tells me it's something related to the entire system itself than just 1 side.

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[STI_MECE]

I'm also missing the anti squeal and shim pads on both sides for the brakes [emoji849] so I can at least start there.

And whenever I tried getting the Pistons to retract I had to open the bleeder and the cap on the master cylinder resivoir to get them to push back but what was funny is that they came back to their original spot after I push them back in.

I have not had to drive this deep in a brake system before.

I'm ready to order some OEM parts lol

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[brillo_76]

What did you use for parts?? Where did the calipers and shoes come from??

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[STI_MECE]

What did you use for parts?? Where did the calipers and shoes come from??

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From what NTB told me, they are just "remanufactured" calipers, and most likely rebuilt with non OEM stuff.

I got rubber brake lines from NAPA.

Everything else, pads and rotors i have not touched on the front end since I got it.

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm also missing the anti squeal and shim pads on both sides for the brakes [emoji849] so I can at least start there.

And whenever I tried getting the Pistons to retract I had to open the bleeder and the cap on the master cylinder resivoir to get them to push back but what was funny is that they came back to their original spot after I push them back in.

I have not had to drive this deep in a brake system before.

I'm ready to order some OEM parts lol

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That would lead me to believe the remanufactured calipers are the issue

 

[BoomerBob]

That would lead me to believe the remanufactured calipers are the issue

I agree 100%. I've been hearing reman calipers are a waste of money. They don't need to be OEM but they should be new from a reputable company. I'm looking at the Callahan's.

I replaced the rotors and pads on the front of my 01 and now I have the dreaded pulsing that indicates a warped rotor or two. I just got back from a 1200 mile trip and it didn't get worse but at times I didn't get the steering wheel shake (without hitting the brakes) which tells me the pistons sometimes retracted more than others.

I'll be checking for rotor warp with a dial indicator and if my new rotors are warped I'll replace them or it and the caliper(s).

What I'm wondering is if the ABS system can be causing any of this...

 

[BoomerBob]

And whenever I tried getting the Pistons to retract I had to open the bleeder and the cap on the master cylinder resivoir to get them to push back but what was funny is that they came back to their original spot after I push them back in.

Does anyone know if this is normal or does it indicate an issue somewhere?

 

[brillo_76]

Sadly, Even some of the pads from the Chain autoparts are junk too. They don't fit or are too tight etc.

I put Napa Remains on my 98 Tetanus 1. I most of lucked out. They brake perfectly and are not hanging up. My original ones were but they had over 240K in the rust belt on them.

I would suspect like the others suggested that its either the calipers or the ABS system as you have VSC.

Some brake pads come with the shims already on them too. I have seen that as well from the Autoparts chain stores.

 

[brillo_76]

Does anyone know if this is normal or does it indicate an issue somewhere?

I never really paid that close attention when I changed brakes in my Tocuma or 01 4 Runner. I just pushed the calipers pistons back.


I didn't have to take a bleeder loose or take a brake fluid cap off though.

The pistons stayed put though until I got it all back together. I never had them move or anything.

You might be onto something there Boomerbob. I didn't have the same experience.

 

[STI_MECE]

Does anyone know if this is normal or does it indicate an issue somewhere?

That is what im saying....I do not think its normal. My logic tells me there is still pressure being generated from somewhere else (like the master).

With the car off, and opening the bleeders, then pushing the piston in, the piston should not come back out unless something else is acting on it.

It didnt come back as far as it was initially but it did come back out.

Maybe the brake pedal is not fully disengaging off the master, the booster is aftermarket. And considering the POS has screwed up everything in existence on this thing, maybe the push rod was out of adjustment and eventually wore the internal springs out from returning to their original spot??

That is a hail mary lol To me, after drawing it out more and more, there is something going on in the master cylinder, or there is something coming on between the booster push rod and master cylinder, or its the brake pedal not fully returning to its normal height (easy test) lol

its just all far fetched because I always got problems that no one else seems to have :sobbing:


I did try doing some emergency braking too and I cant get ABS to engage, but i was doing it on concrete, but i was definitely make those tires scream pretty good.

 

[brillo_76]

What was the brakes and the calipers like before the remain change?

Maybe they use the crappiest cheapest calipers they could find and caused you this unnecessary grief. :-(

 

[STI_MECE]

I will provided a play by play of my lovely brake story lol

the brakes were always mushy....like stupid soft before....from the first day i got it.

i would have to stand on the pedal to get it to stop not completely stand on it but the pedal would drop farrrr. Took him home, noticed drive side rear bleeder was leaking, it was just look (totally safe i know lol) that was day 1

took it home went HAM on suspension for 1 month. never drove it during that period.

Then after suspension was done, took it to NTB to get alignment. driving it there, the front brakes were dragging and gradually dragging more and more.

The only way for me to get back home was to have NTB put re-manufactured calipers on. they told the calipers were frozen, both of tthem.

They didn't replace the pads or rotors, just the calipers.

Took it home drove great, brakes still spongy or soft. I attributed that to the fact that my rear drums had oil on them. Because before i got new tires, i saw the ones that were on there, had the lovely oil streaks (they were not fresh either).

The PO had reciept of repair they only did the seals and cleaned drums

the brake were soft from that point on, always had to stand on brakes to get it to stop.

fast forward two months and 2k miles, oil leaking out of rear axles.

Rebuilt axles, rebuilt drums, bleeded the rear brakes. stopped like a dream. progression was back to normal and had stopping power.

then another 1k miles just drove 185 miles, ran like a top. turned it on the next morning and boom brakes started dragging on highway. (front ones)

 

[Bad Luck]

[MENTION=409002]STI_MECE[/MENTION] I forgot that you were the proud owner of a poorly repaired vehicle by the previous owner. With that in mind and thinking more about you having to crack the bleeders to push the pistons back in, there is a possibility that the piston in the master cylinder isn't returning all the way to allow the brake lines to depressurize and return fluid back into the reservoir. Just a thought and something to consider if new calipers don't fix your issue.

 

[STI_MECE]

[MENTION=409002]STI_MECE[/MENTION] I forgot that you were the proud owner of a poorly repaired vehicle by the previous owner. With that in mind and thinking more about you having to crack the bleeders to push the pistons back in, there is a possibility that the piston in the master cylinder isn't returning all the way to allow the brake lines to depressurize and return fluid back into the reservoir. Just a thought and something to consider if new calipers don't fix your issue.

I leaning more towards the master cylinder being the issue considering both sides are dragging and exhibiting the exact same symptoms.

I need to do some surfing to see if there is a way to diagnose a bad master cylinder. There are no leaks what so ever. But I wouldnt be surprised if all the flushing I have done dislodged something to the cylinder and just clogged it or something.

semi unrelated, I have a used OEM booster ready to go on. just need a few small things. Would be nice if it was the master then i can trash the whole thing together.

I think my time is better spent doing the timing belt for now lol

 

[STI_MECE]

Got some prices from dealership.

Remanufactured calipers (Per Side) - 111

Shim and Squeal Pads (Both Sides) - 18.75

OE Pads (Both Sides) - 79

Rotor (Per Side) - 63.00

Master Cylinder - 239

I am super tempted to replace all lol I cant argue with these prices.

 

[brillo_76]

Idk. I really like to stop my rig. My 83 Toyota master cylinder went bad. The master cylinder went spongy. I be sitting at a stop light and my brake pedal would head to the floor. This was just a standard old master cylinder though.


Since they were always screwed up and the fact your rig was maintained by people before you that never should have touched anything. They could have transmission fluid in the brake system.

The 01 and 02 have the really interesting as they are electric master cylinder with abs integration.

Being you replaced or inspected everything else. With no abs codes being mentioned. You are probably correct in saying it's in the master cylinder abs unit. :[

As I dont have to stand on my head nor take a bleeder loose cap off etc. To stop in my 01.



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[STI_MECE]

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

I have a 2000! master cylinder and ABS unit are not integrated They are separate on my rig.

I think im going to replace the master cylinder with an OEM one and see what happens. If it still doesnt free them up, then i'm definitely going to point at the calipers.

I am going to have NTB replace them under warranty after they tow my car back 185 miles to the nearest NTB. then tow it back to my place.

They wont even install OEM calipers if I bought the calipers through them to install. They will only install the same exact caliper they installed. Its crap..:flamethrwoer2:

 

[brillo_76]

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

I have a 2000! master cylinder and ABS unit are not integrated They are separate on my rig.

I think im going to replace the master cylinder with an OEM one and see what happens. If it still doesnt free them up, then i'm definitely going to point at the calipers.

I am going to have NTB replace them under warranty after they tow my car back 185 miles to the nearest NTB. then tow it back to my place.

They wont even install OEM calipers if I bought the calipers through them to install. They will only install the same exact caliper they installed. Its crap..:flamethrwoer2:

My Bad. I thought it was a 01 for some reason. Even though its listen in your signature. :{ That would be my fault. Thank you for the correction.

My 97 and 98s are just like your 2000 separate abs from the master. I never had issues with them either. Push the pistons back and they stay put.
These are simpler systems.

I cant think of anything else it would be besides those 3 things.

Cant you change and your calipers and bleed the breaks yourself? Then you can get the good parts on the rig and eliminate that as a possibly?

These are not hard to change at all. I am sure Tim has a video on it if you are unsure how to do it.

NTB could make it worse then they already are. Dont you have a garage to change them in and tools.. Could be done in just a few hours provided you have the parts in hand and a brake bleeder too.;-)

 

[STI_MECE]

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION], yep I can replace the entire front brake system if I wanted to where im at. But i dont wanna drop the extra cash on those if I DON'T have too lol

I got the OEM master cylinder coming in tomorrow, and I will replace that after I do the timing belt (which I start today)

I'm doing the oil cooler fittings and orings, hoses, all the timing belt stuff, tensioner and everything, gunna swap the brake boosters too, new check valve going in, and the little hold down bracket.

Gotta go to junkyard tomorrow and get the hard lines for the front brakes. the fittings are were fubar'ed someone tightened the flare nuts down too much and they were expanded and not going back into the new rubber fitting ends.

on the plus side my mechanic knowledge is growing exponentially lol and I love learning so it is what it is. I just hope no one has to go through this pain and suffering on here like me lol

 

[brillo_76]

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION], yep I can replace the entire front brake system if I wanted to where im at. But i dont wanna drop the extra cash on those if I DON'T have too lol

I got the OEM master cylinder coming in tomorrow, and I will replace that after I do the timing belt (which I start today)

I'm doing the oil cooler fittings and orings, hoses, all the timing belt stuff, tensioner and everything, gunna swap the brake boosters too, new check valve going in, and the little hold down bracket.

Gotta go to junkyard tomorrow and get the hard lines for the front brakes. the fittings are were fubar'ed someone tightened the flare nuts down too much and they were expanded and not going back into the new rubber fitting ends.

on the plus side my mechanic knowledge is growing exponentially lol and I love learning so it is what it is. I just hope no one has to go through this pain and suffering on here like me lol

Actually, this is typical of buying a used rig with people wrenching on it that shouldn't be. :{ I have seen many oh boy repairs in the past.

If you cant find the brake lines at a junk yard. You can use the napa japan ones

Source:
Front hard brake line into caliper leaking - please help!

From a"mainerunner"

"All you need is an 8" piece of brake line from any parts store that is 3/16"X 10mm-1.0 inverted flare. It's just a 3/16" brake line with metric thread AKA Japanese style brake line "

I didnt have the length in my notes 8 inch.

I used a ni cu line from Napa worked great